What kind of temp difference should I expect (From TapaTalk Forum)

LANDING PAGE Forums COMMON RV COMPONENTS & ISSUES AIR CONDITIONING, HEATING, VENTILATION, WINDOWS What kind of temp difference should I expect (From TapaTalk Forum)

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        Posted: 8:47 PM – Aug 05, 2017
        KamFlyer
        We normally dry camp and don’t use the A/C much but this week we have had full hookups and have had the need to run the A/C. I am finding however that there doesn’t seem to be much difference between inside and outside temps.
        Typically we seem to see about 3-4 degree C difference. Humidity around here is pretty low, 30% or so. Outside temp is about 30C and about the best we get inside is 26 or so. Is this normal?
        The A/C is the 15K Carrier AirV.
        Thanks -Rob-

        Posted: 10:10 PM – Aug 05, 2017
        Alloy
        Have you taken the outside plastic cover off the AC to make sure that no creatures have made a home in the AC coils/fan……..wasps like the coils.

        Return air filter O.K

        Both fans spinning the right way

        Seals are O.K between cold air and warm air side.

        and a last one…..disconnect both the AC power and the battery(s) from the trailer to reset the unit


        Posted: 12:00 AM – Aug 06, 2017
        RJofOregon
        I just had an inspection done on the coach we are buying and the inspector said he was able to get a 30 degree fahrenheit difference between outside (85f at the time) and inside. He said that was a bit better than average.

        Posted: 7:17 AM – Aug 06, 2017
        JohnD222
        Rob,

        Your unit is a 2008 model, so I find it hard to believe someone has lived with this for so long, but it may have been there from the factory (read on)..

        The reset mentioned does fix many such instances.

        Yes, bugs and nests plugging the condenser coils can cause the problem because the gases can’t be cooled properly.

        In addition, many units of that Era did not have the inflow/outflow separator installed correctly. Inside air needs to completely isolated within the passageways of the rooftop unit or air just circulates within the ceiling. If this is the problem you will also get a lot more flow out if the ducts when corrected. This is all done from inside.

        Take the plastic ceiling panel off – a few screws. With a flashlight, look to see if the tin separator (separating return air from the outgoing cool air) goes all the way from the bottom to top inside the 4-6 inch tall ceiling cavity within the ac unit, and is sealed at the top/bottom and on both ends. Silver peel and stick air duct tape (NOT duct tape) can seal, or even act as the tin separator. It is amazing what a little 3/4 inch crack in this separator wall will do in the way of reducing performance.

        If none of the above work, these units cannot be recharged. Carrier no longer makes RV units, but other manufacturers make adapters so you can reuse the carrier controls and remote. I live in humid Florida much of the time so I found the “dehumidify” function a great feature on the Carrier, but with an ultra low fan speed on other controllers you can get about the same results. My thermostat is on the wall right where the carrier remote was located, – but my new thermostat is much more accurate because it is in a much better location than the ceiling location of the Carrier with remote.


        Posted: 7:40 AM – Aug 06, 2017
        Partimewages
        With everything else right the split accross the inside coil should be 15 to 25 degree F. Dirt is the number one cause of failed or inefficent HVAC equipment.

        Posted: 8:35 AM – Aug 06, 2017
        JohnD222
        Rob, I presumed you are inside and see little difference. if you are on the roof taking temp measurements at the condenser, and those numbers are bad, my duct fix won’t help you much, but would increase air circulation.

        What happens when the separator is not installed or sealed correctly is chilled air goes up to be re chilled, and incoming warm air gets pushed down the ducts or, if non-ducted, out the outflow area. In both cases, following the path of least restriction.

        Partimewages wrote:With everything else right the split accross the inside coil should be 15 to 25 degree F. Dirt is the number one cause of failed or inefficent HVAC equipment.

        Posted: 12:28 PM – Aug 06, 2017
        KamFlyer
        BCBackroads wrote:Have you taken the outside plastic cover off the AC to make sure that no creatures have made a home in the AC coils/fan……..wasps like the coils.

        Return air filter O.K

        Both fans spinning the right way

        Seals are O.K between cold air and warm air side.

        and a last one…..disconnect both the AC power and the battery(s) from the trailer to reset the unit

        First 3 check OK. The last 2 will have to wait til we get home next week.


        Posted: 9:22 AM – Aug 12, 2017
        KamFlyer
        It looks like the seals are OK. And I have pulled all power to the rig. I don’t have a access to a 30A hookup right now so can’t tell if the reset worked. I also picked up a handheld IR gun. Next time I have the A/C running I’ll take some temperature measurements and post the result.

        Posted: 12:05 AM – Aug 30, 2017
        KamFlyer
        Just a quick followup.
        Last week for the first time we had a full week on a 50 Amp service and hot weather. If we started the A/C early before things got hot it was able to maintain about a 9 – 10 degree C difference between inside and outside. We mostly boondock and I think my problem was because we needed to run the generators to run the A/C and waiting until it was already hot inside and not starting the A/C until much later.
        -Rob-

        B.W.Gentry
        Owner/Admin
        2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
        Breckenridge, TX

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