residential refridgerator (From TapaTalk Forum)

Jun 03, 2018#1

want to replace my 1210 noncold what do I need for inverter and how to wire it what other parts do I need thank You

Jun 03, 2018#2

You really don’t have to have an inverter unless you plan on boondocking or overnighting with out power. I replaced my Norcold with a residential unit in 2011 and never have had a inverter and probably never will. When I travel I just don’t open the door and nothing defrosts. We travel 6 to 8 hours a day when on the road and sometimes in 100 degree weather.

Jun 10, 2018#3

A simple Aims autoswitching 1200 Watt inverter would take care of the fridge with no worries.

Easy for an electrician to install.
Just a 2/0 cable from the bat positive to an 200AMP ANL fuse then to the inverter and another cable from bat neg to inverter. Add a short ground wire to the RV’s frame and the DC side is done.

Run the AC cable from where in the RV you want to plug the fridge first to the inverter then back to the fridge and AC is done.

Simple and effective.

Plug into shore power and it runs from shore.

Unplug shore and it runs off the batteries.

Plug the RV into the truck and the truck helps keep the RV’s batteries charged while the inverter runs.

Plug back into shore and it runs from shore again…

All automatically.

Inverter

Fuse

Jun 10, 2018#4

thank You Tim Car

Jun 10, 2018#5

In reading other post regarding inverter install it says that You must shut converter of when using inverter what Im I missing thank You

Jun 10, 2018#6

With an Autoswitching Inverter, it only inverts DC->AC when there’s no AC/shore power detected. It’s all automatic.

When there’s no AC, the “converter” (battery charger) is off due to lack of AC power because it’s AC->DC

It’s worth the extra money to get an Autoswitching unit and let it take care of itself. Nothing to remember, it turns itself on/off.

Jun 10, 2018#7

Thanks

Jun 10, 2018#8

how many batteries 6 or 12 volt where did you install them how about one deep cycle as we don’t dry camp

Jun 10, 2018#9

I had room for 2 six volt Golf Carts in my RV. They could run the fridge for a few hours alone.

But if you want to see what ALLOY, the Master of customized RV’s did, you could add more:

11:42 PM – Mar 12#10

TimCar wrote:A simple Aims autoswitching 1200 Watt inverter would take care of the fridge with no worries.
Easy for an electrician to install.
Just a 2/0 cable from the bat positive to an 200AMP ANL fuse then to the inverter and another cable from bat neg to inverter. Add a short ground wire to the RV’s frame and the DC side is done.
Run the AC cable from where in the RV you want to plug the fridge first to the inverter then back to the fridge and AC is done.

TimCar,

I’m thinking of doing this. My fridge only draws a max of 6.5 amps, which would be 65 at 12v. Why put a 200 amp fuse in? Wouldn’t a 100 amp be more suitable. I know you want some overhead for a surge, but 200 seems like a lot.

Also, do you know where the DC wires were run? My fridge is not far from the battery box, but it is in the slide. If I install this, I plan to do it myself. Is the wire run difficult?

Thanks.

6:58 PM – Mar 15#11

papacliff wrote:I’m thinking of doing this. My fridge only draws a max of 6.5 amps, which would be 65 at 12v. Why put a 200 amp fuse in? Wouldn’t a 100 amp be more suitable. I know you want some overhead for a surge, but 200 seems like a lot.
Also, do you know where the DC wires were run? My fridge is not far from the battery box, but it is in the slide. If I install this, I plan to do it myself. Is the wire run difficult?
Thanks.

Fuse/breaker size is set by the inverter manufacture. This along with the combined length of the pos & neg 12VDC wire runs determines the wire size. Most of the time keeping the inverter close to the batteries and running the AC wire to the fridge is best.

As to the fridge load….6.5 amps at 120V = 780 watts. Divided this by the efficiency of the inverter….say 85%…..so 780W / 0.85 = 917 watts…..divided this by the DC system voltage of 12.5VDC = 73.36amps.

8:03 AM – Mar 18#12

Alloy wrote:
papacliff wrote:I’m thinking of doing this. My fridge only draws a max of 6.5 amps, which would be 65 at 12v. Why put a 200 amp fuse in? Wouldn’t a 100 amp be more suitable. I know you want some overhead for a surge, but 200 seems like a lot.
Also, do you know where the DC wires were run? My fridge is not far from the battery box, but it is in the slide. If I install this, I plan to do it myself. Is the wire run difficult?
Thanks.
Fuse/breaker size is set by the inverter manufacture. This along with the combined length of the pos & neg 12VDC wire runs determines the wire size. Most of the time keeping the inverter close to the batteries and running the AC wire to the fridge is best.
As to the fridge load….6.5 amps at 120V = 780 watts. Divided this by the efficiency of the inverter….say 85%…..so 780W / 0.85 = 917 watts…..divided this by the DC system voltage of 12.5VDC = 73.36amps.

Alloy,

Your math is correct. The inverter sucks that much juice out of the batteries to deliver the fridg’s needs.

Your second point about the fuse size and location is also correct. Danger comes from putting too large of a fuse into the line. Too small of a fuse and it may lead to a lot of inconvenience. Standard fuse sizing assumes the inverter is feeding several appliances via a pony/sub box, none of which exceed more than a few amps, but collectively they approach it and certainly could – say forgetting about the inverter limits and pluging in a heavy motor to an outlet fed by the inverter without making sure everything else tgat runs on the inverter is turned off. If motor draw or any combined draw exceeds inverter fuse capacity, the correct fuse will break the circuit, and nothing will work until the fuse is replaced. If an undersized fuse is put in the line the same happens at a much lighter load.

An inverter dedicated to the domestic frig is something of a special application, but rule of thumb fuse sizing should still apply because you or the next guy has the tendency to add things onto a circuit say a radio, or a cell phone charger, or a radio/tv, and pretty soon the draw on the inverter exceeds the capacity of the undersized fuse. It pops, And you have zero power until that fuse is replaced. That will happen at the most inconvenient time.

JohnD