Big Foot Bounce (From TapaTalk Forum)

If you are <180# this may be all you need to do.

Second, add either two manual rear scissor jacks or the electric system of jacks at the rear. If I had it to do over again, I would do the electric system, because, in hindsight, the angle is better.

Add JT Strongman or Plug it Right stabilizers to the rear scissors and front big foots. At the propane line, you need to use a short piece of 1.25 inch angle iron. You need 4 stabilizers for the front big foot, and four for the rear scissor jacks. But if you use the the rear electric, you need only two in the rear. With all due respect to Dutch and Di, if you live near the ocean or where they use salt on the road, I would strongly recommend the JT’s.

Three, add wheel chocks. Actually, since I am a firm believer in chocking wheels before I unhook, I would buy these first, but it does not stabilize as much as previous items. There are several versions out there that squeeze both wheels to eliminate rocking. These are not the ones you simply put on the ground.

Forget about a pin support – garbage.

JohnD222 wrote:First, let it level itself, then raise the nose a bit and tell it to level again. This sometimes takes a little load off the springs so it is more stable.

If you are <180# this may be all you need to do.

Second, add either two manual rear scissor jacks or the electric system of jacks at the rear. If I had it to do over again, I would do the electric system, because, in hindsight, the angle is better.

Add JT Strongman or Plug it Right stabilizers to the rear scissors and front big foots. At the propane line, you need to use a short piece of 1.25 inch angle iron. You need 4 stabilizers for the front big foot, and four for the rear scissor jacks. But if you use the the rear electric, you need only two in the rear. With all due respect to Dutch and Di, if you live near the ocean or where they use salt on the road, I would strongly recommend the JT’s.

Three, add wheel chocks. Actually, since I am a firm believer in chocking wheels before I unhook, I would buy these first, but it does not stabilize as much as previous items. There are several versions out there that squeeze both wheels to eliminate rocking. These are not the ones you simply put on the ground.

Forget about a pin support – garbage.

Since you asked.

The photos show the plug it right after just 3 years. I have a total of 10 of these including the ones I put on the rear scissor jacks.

Yes the plug it rights are lighter than the JT Strongman’s, and there is some advantage to that when you have ten of them.

The JT’s are much heavier metal including fittings, and after 5 years looked like new. Unfortunately I sold that rig and have no photos.

I don’t know if it is the quality of the steel, the powder paint, or what. I also had three of the first batch of knobs seize and the plastic part just turned. Vice grips got each of them out ok.

dutchanddi wrote:Hi
I am hoping you can clarify what you mean by your statement about our Plug It Right stabilizers. “With all due respect to Dutch and Di, if you live near the ocean or where they use salt on the road, I would strongly recommend the JT’s”. I know of no customers including ourselves in the 8 years of making and selling them who are having any issue with our stabilizers because of being near the ocean or road salt including our Canadian customers. Would you care to to explain please? Hugs, Di

JohnD222 wrote:First, let it level itself, then raise the nose a bit and tell it to level again. This sometimes takes a little load off the springs so it is more stable.

If you are <180# this may be all you need to do.

Second, add either two manual rear scissor jacks or the electric system of jacks at the rear. If I had it to do over again, I would do the electric system, because, in hindsight, the angle is better.

Add JT Strongman or Plug it Right stabilizers to the rear scissors and front big foots. At the propane line, you need to use a short piece of 1.25 inch angle iron. You need 4 stabilizers for the front big foot, and four for the rear scissor jacks. But if you use the the rear electric, you need only two in the rear. With all due respect to Dutch and Di, if you live near the ocean or where they use salt on the road, I would strongly recommend the JT’s.

Three, add wheel chocks. Actually, since I am a firm believer in chocking wheels before I unhook, I would buy these first, but it does not stabilize as much as previous items. There are several versions out there that squeeze both wheels to eliminate rocking. These are not the ones you simply put on the ground.

Forget about a pin support – garbage.

JohnD222 wrote:Di,

Since you asked.

The photos show the plug it right after just 3 years. I have a total of 10 of these including the ones I put on the rear scissor jacks.

Yes the plug it rights are lighter than the JT Strongman’s, and there is some advantage to that when you have ten of them.

The JT’s are much heavier metal including fittings, and after 5 years looked like new. Unfortunately I sold that rig and have no photos.

I don’t know if it is the quality of the steel, the powder paint, or what. I also had three of the first batch of knobs seize and the plastic part just turned. Vice grips got each of them out ok.

dutchanddi wrote:Hi
I am hoping you can clarify what you mean by your statement about our Plug It Right stabilizers. “With all due respect to Dutch and Di, if you live near the ocean or where they use salt on the road, I would strongly recommend the JT’s”. I know of no customers including ourselves in the 8 years of making and selling them who are having any issue with our stabilizers because of being near the ocean or road salt including our Canadian customers. Would you care to to explain please? Hugs, Di

JohnD222 wrote:First, let it level itself, then raise the nose a bit and tell it to level again. This sometimes takes a little load off the springs so it is more stable.

If you are <180# this may be all you need to do.

Second, add either two manual rear scissor jacks or the electric system of jacks at the rear. If I had it to do over again, I would do the electric system, because, in hindsight, the angle is better.

Add JT Strongman or Plug it Right stabilizers to the rear scissors and front big foots. At the propane line, you need to use a short piece of 1.25 inch angle iron. You need 4 stabilizers for the front big foot, and four for the rear scissor jacks. But if you use the the rear electric, you need only two in the rear. With all due respect to Dutch and Di, if you live near the ocean or where they use salt on the road, I would strongly recommend the JT’s.

Three, add wheel chocks. Actually, since I am a firm believer in chocking wheels before I unhook, I would buy these first, but it does not stabilize as much as previous items. There are several versions out there that squeeze both wheels to eliminate rocking. These are not the ones you simply put on the ground.

Forget about a pin support – garbage.

Thank you for your kind offer. Great after sale customer support! We are communicating off line to arrange shipping.

Yes I did buy the first set from Bigfoot. I think I got the flyer on the product with news of the upgrade to the 2sensor with remote. I suspect that I called that same number to get the second set when I added the scissors in the back a year later, but just don’t remember. I will check to see if they have the same label.

Thank you again.

Lillyputz

So much of “bounce” is subjective, and depends on the weight of the people moving. It also depends upon how Bigfoot unloads the springs as part of the auto leveling process. Sometimes, the weight is barely taken off the tires, and a lot of stabilizing is needed; sometimes a lot of weight is taken off the tires and little stabilizing is needed.

I go back to how to reduce bounce. Auto level. If wheels appear to be still loaded, (springs rather than bug foots supporting the weight of the 5er) raise bigfoots manually to a higher balanced position.

Wheel chocks are for safety or excessive – your pick.

If you are bothered by movement in the front of the 5er, don’t waste your time with a kingpin stabilizer – it won’t help. You need stabilizers – mainly left to right for each front leg. The fore-aft to the front leg also helps even if you already have to to chocks etc. They are essential for front stability if you do not, as are the rear stabilizers for big foot.

However, if it were me, I would take the latter set if stabilizers and attach them to rear manual or electric scissor jacks. If electric, only the 2 are needed, if manual scissors, you should use 2 more, or just use the one from up front by the propane line.

The curb side has a cast iron propane line running down the frame, so you need some adaptation to put a stabilizer on the fore/aft position there (two short pieces of 1.25 inch angle iron works just fine.

With all of the above, it take an extra three minutes to set up and take down camp, and it feels like you are on concrete blocks. Knee pads help keep the knees clean! Do I take the extra 3 minutes when on a level site for just one night – no. Several days, or an unlevel site for just a day – most of how time unless it is raining.

Fixing bounce on the front of the 5er is stopped with the front stabilizers. This may or may not be enough to stop the bounce in the rear. The stabilizer to the rear Bigfoot may be all that is needed to work for you in this regard. I found that I needed the rear scissors with my weight distribution.