caulk

I have not had to re-caulk the out side yet but when I do I will use Lexel instead of silicone. Here is a link to the product.

http://www.sashco.com/hi/lexel.html

Look at the FAQ’s on their site and it talks about RV usage. I have used it before in non RV situations and found it far superior to silicone. I would also recommend a pneumatic caulk gun for more consistent bead. You can use blue painters tape on both sides of the bead to get a nice look and remove the tape while the caulk is still wet. The tape method makes for a nice straight bead.

I have not been able to find “Lexel caulk” in any of the hardware stores around us. Trying to order it on-line could be a problem.

Nate

warthog wrote:I have not been able to find “Lexel caulk” in any of the hardware stores around us. Trying to order it on-line could be a problem.

Nate

Ace hardware andTrue Value hardware usually carry it. It’s also available through Walmart.com

Thanks Chip,

I have looked in Home Depot, Lowes and Wal-Mart and did not find it, however I will check again. I might even ask a salesperson next time.   

Nate

A&J’s Carrilite wrote:If you go to the Lexel website, they have a store locator button.

OK!!!!!!!!!!!!

Nate

Phillip,

I know the link is for everyone, so thanks.

Nate

warthog wrote:Phillip,

I know the link is for everyone, so thanks.

Nate

Absolutely! I am going to check my local Ace Hardware store to see if they have it in stock. I emailed one fo the Ebay listing and asked for the experiation date on the tubes they were selling but did not get a response. Printers cartridges and other things with a shelf life need to purchased on line with caution. Phillip

That’s true some item (not all) if used after the expiration date may not work as well.

Nate

maxtraveler wrote:I took falconhunter’s and it is best I have used. I found it is harder to apply than reviews indicated. It has a tendency to skim over very quickly making it hard to rework. I recommend trying it in some hidden area as a test run. Now if I can figure out how those perfect calk lines are put down by carriage.

I use blue painters tape. Here are some directions I found on the internet that explais it better than I can. Pay attention to where it says to immediately remove the tape.

•Take blue painters tape and mask off both surfaces at the point where you want the edge of the caulk to stop.
•Make sure the tape is straight and use long sections of tape, not short pieces.
•The joint will look best if you tape a thinner joint, approximately 1/4″ in total width.
•Press down firmly the edge of the tape that is along the caulk joint.
•Once the joint is cleaned out and masked, you’re ready to caulk.•Open the caulk tube by cutting the tip at a 45 degree angle and puncturing the inner seal with a long nail or wire. Many newer caulk guns have built in tip snippers and puncture wires.
•Apply the caulk at a 45 degree angle between horizontal and perpendicular.
•Make sure to squeeze hard enough to get the caulk fully into the joint.
•Work at a speed that is slow and consistent. The smoother you make the joint to start with, the easier the job will be.

Once the caulk is applied, the next step is to smooth the joint. Here’s where the tape masking technique will make your job successful. Typically at this point, where tape masking is not used, the caulk would smear and spread onto both surfaces as you pressed the joint smooth with your finger. However, by using the tape masking technique in this tutorial, your caulk joint will be left with only a clean, sharp edge.
•Wet your finger with either alcohol (for silicone caulk) or water (with latex caulk). Also dampen part of a rag with water or alcohol as appropriate.
•The alcohol or water will serve as a lubricant and cutting agent as you smooth the joint.
•Using firm pressure, smooth the caulk joint working from one end to the other.
•As you finger becomes laden with excess caulk, wipe it off with the dampened rag and re-wet your finger.
•Continue the smoothing process until the entire taped section you’re working on is finished.

Once the caulk joint has been smoothed out with your finger you’re almost done.
•Once the caulk joint is smoothed out, immediately remove the blue painters tape used to mask the joint.
•Remove the tape away slowly and pull it away from the joint at an angle, not toward the joint.

On the seams Lexel. You can get white or clear. There are areas outside where you can use both. I know Amazon has it, but I got mine at Ace Hardware. Neither Lowes or Home Depot carry it.

On the roof use Dicor. I use the self leveling – white.

I’ve been using clear 3M-730 $$ ….but only because I’m familiar with it. It is 100% urethane so I can use it on plastics and the TPO roof.

Unlike Silicone (not saying Lexel is) based products it can be painted over…..I stay away from silicone because I know what it does to paint jobs.

I like clear so I can see where the (dirt under the caulking) leaks may be.

http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/a … 508&rt=rud

These are the scrappers that I make from Phenolic to remove the caulking. These don’t scratch the fiberglass but they may scratch the paint.