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- CLOC-AdminI am going to install Kodiak disc on our 35sb3 this spring. I have read about the switch and seen a YouTube video. It looks pretty straight forward. With the hassles people have in getting a sop to make the switch, I am considering doing it myself. Anyone out there tackled the conversion?Posted: 9:29 AM – Dec 22, 2012To me the hardest part of the conversion would be running the brake lines and bleeding them. The only other thing would be re-torqueing the bearings if you have the never lube bearings (1-7/16″ socket and 150ft/lbs.). I can’t see that it would be a lot different than replacing the drum brakes with new loaded backing plates.
Our trailer has them on it already and I will not have another one without them! On our first stop it was good that we had our seatbelts on or we would have been through the windshield. Turned the controller down and all is well now.
Good luck and Merry ChristmasPosted: 4:45 PM – Dec 22, 2012Hey jpcovert1.We have the disc brakes on our Carri-lite and love them. Mine were installed by the factory but I am very familiar with the set up. I would love to help you with the conversion just for the experience if your close to Houston Texas that is if you would like a hand. I love doing mods!
Chip
Posted: 5:32 PM – Dec 22, 2012I know the disc brakes are a lot better, no doubt. At this point, I’m sticking with the standard electric drum brakes at least until it’s time to replace the brakes. They are working better than expected once the grease covered ones were replaced after we took delivery. Once time to replace, I hope to have convinced the other half to let me do the disc brake conversion. If given the go ahaead, I’m sure we will do it ourselves. I’m prety handy and have talked to a Kodiak rep and watched a couple of on-line videos. Looks pretty straight forward. I think the hardest part would be the wiring and plumbing for the hydraulic lines. PhillipPosted: 1:57 AM – Dec 23, 2012Just a line to warn everyone doing the conversion, if the conversion comes with new hubs, check the offset of the hubs on the axle. On mine, the conversion changed the spacing between the tires. My conversion increased the track by about 3/4 – 1 inch and I started rubbing the sides of the tires on the fenderwell. I had to trim about 3/8 inch from the inside edges of both fenderwells to stop the tires from scuffing.Sheff
Posted: 10:03 AM – Dec 23, 2012Falconhunter,
I would appreciate the help but I am in Northern California. Long drive.Posted: 4:43 PM – Jan 20, 2013Well, after talking to the rep from “The Expediter”, a Titan and Kodiak disc brake ditributor in FL, from Titan, I think I will try to convince the other half to let me go ahead and get the disc brakes.
I talked to the same guy last year and he acutally remembered me! He sells the Titan Brake Rite, new bearings, and Kodiak disc brake kits for our 7k Dexter axles for $1399. The control module you need for the new GM trucks is $79. He said he could suggest an installer that could do the job in a 1/2 a day for $350 but told me it pretty easy and that I could do it myself. I probably would. I think I might go ahead and do it in a few months for the ease of maintenance, better breaking, and opverall peace of mind.
I did not recall him quoting me that good of a price last year when I spokde to him but I verified his price about three times!
So should I do it??? PhillipPosted: 5:00 PM – Jan 20, 2013Go for it let me know how it goes. I am planning to tackle the job in the spring.Posted: 9:15 PM – Jan 20, 2013Phillip,If you are swapping out the same style bearings you should have no issues on a 34 foot 5er. Get a tubing bender for the brake lines and have patience with bleeding. A shop would weld on a bracket to mount the hydraulic actuator, but you can do it with screw-in angle iron plate. Easy, but $350 is pretty cheap versus my old bones. Good luck.
jdpm wrote:Well, after talking to the rep from “The Expediter”, a Titan and Kodiak disc brake ditributor in FL, from Titan, I think I will try to convince the other half to let me go ahead and get the disc brakes.
I talked to the same guy last year and he acutally remembered me! He sells the Titan Brake Rite, new bearings, and Kodiak disc brake kits for our 7k Dexter axles for $1399. The control module you need for the new GM trucks is $79. He said he could suggest an installer that could do the job in a 1/2 a day for $350 but told me it pretty easy and that I could do it myself. I probably would. I think I might go ahead and do it in a few months for the ease of maintenance, better breaking, and opverall peace of mind.
I did not recall him quoting me that good of a price last year when I spokde to him but I verified his price about three times!
So should I do it??? PhillipPosted: 8:59 AM – Jan 21, 2013I don’t know if all Kodiak brake kits are created equal but here is a link to another kit.http://www.southwestwheel.com/store/c-1 … -kits.aspx
This is where I purchased my H rated tires and wheels. I noticed some of the Kodiak kits had black rotors and calipers and some were silver, don’t know if there is a difference or not but might be worth while checking it out. Our 36 Max1 came with Dexter dual piston calipers, two piece rotors and never lube bearings. I noticed the Kodiak where single piston. The dexter appear to be twice the cost.
Posted: 9:00 AM – Jan 21, 2013I dont know what video you watched but here is one on the hartland website.
http://www.heartlandowners.org/showthre … on-TutoralPosted: 10:14 AM – Jan 22, 2013After watching the video, I am encouraged that the conversion is as easy as I hoped. Will pull the trigger on the conversion kit in the next couple weeks.Posted: 9:55 AM – Jan 23, 2013Ditto. Looks pretty easy overall. I think the most difficult part will be the plumbing. I hope to do it this year….but the other half wants to wait a little longer.Posted: 9:25 PM – Jan 23, 2013Jdpm,With a 31 footer you should be fine with good electric drum brakes, or they don’t have greese on them.
Posted: 7:25 AM – Jan 24, 2013JohnD222 wrote:Jdpm,With a 31 footer you should be fine with good electric drum brakes, or they don’t have greese on them.
Probably so, for the most part. The 31ksls is actually 33 feet long and weighs 12k empty. The drums are ok but there is a definate inconsistency in the brake performance. No grease on them – had that issue resolved when the rig was new. I’d prefer the disc for better performance and reliability. Plus, even though I don’t use the ez-lube grease zerks, a blown seal would not contaminate the disc like it does drums. Thoughts?? Thanks, Phillip
Posted: 6:35 PM – Jan 24, 2013I had the same inconsistency in the brake performance on my two previous fifth wheels that were much smaller than the 36 footer I have now. I was blown away by the disc brakes the first time I stepped on the brakes. I also installed a Max brake controller which was a huge difference in the factory controller. Two and a half years later and I’m still impressed with the disc brake performance.Posted: 9:20 PM – Jul 29, 2013Jake, Did you do the disc brake conversion? I’m going to do it After Labor Day weekend. Planning to do it myself and have not yet decided where to buy the parts. I have to do some research on that yet but I am going with the Kodiak system. Many swear my the Dexter that is the best but is cost a considerable more. I think for my 33 footer, the Kodiak will do fine.
If you have done the conversion please tell us about it. Below is a link to a place that seems to offer one stop shopping for everything needed for the conversion. Phillip.Posted: 9:53 AM – Jul 30, 2013Unfortunately the conversion project has been put on hold while life got in the way: two new grand babies, renovating a home near the kids and grand kids. Many of you know the drill. Still on my list but the date is unknown.Posted: 9:56 AM – Jul 30, 2013I plan on getting the ultimate kit from Southwest also. I like the idea of all the parts coming from one supplier.Posted: 9:29 AM – Aug 07, 2013Jpcovert1 wrote:I plan on getting the ultimate kit from Southwest also. I like the idea of all the parts coming from one supplier.The disc brake conversion is ordered and we will install it after Labor Day.
Jake, pm me and I will give the name and number of the supplier I got mine from. This guy really knows his stuff and get most likely get you a better price and exactly what you need with the numbers on your axles. I was going to use Southwest Wheel until I called my guy. I have met and talked to him the past 2 years at the Tamps RV Super Show. PhillipI wanted to swap the drum brakes for Kodiak disc brakes this past spring as well. I contracted Mor-Ryde (Elkart, IN) to perform the swap. I thought this would be a good time to change the suspension as well. So in late March the job was done but Mor-Ryde thought they should use Dexter brakes with 7k Never-lube axles. I paid the higher price and thought this would be a great set-up. Alas, no such luck. I drove the rig back home to Bloomington, IN and parked it until warmer weather. Memorial Day camping trip brought a set of locked brakes. I tripped the break-away switch, tried backing up, and tried holding my mouth in a position other than a scream. Finally the brakes opened (don’t know how) and I drove the rig home. Then about 3 weeks ago I decided to bite the bullet and replace the 16″ wheels with 17.5 inch Sumitomos. I was really excited because the new rims were a big change to the look of the old style. I hooked up the trailer and, low and behold, the brakes were locked again. I had alerted Mor-Rde the first time but now I was hot and so were the brakes. They were so hot they were on fire. I had to use the extinguisher to put the fire out. Mor-Ryde people were a big help to get me to unlock the brakes by disconnecting the electrical support for the brakes. The trouble with this is now there are NO trailer brakes. I got the tires mounted and drove 30+ miles to a repair shop given me by Mor-Ryde. Mor-Ryde have been very involved and helpful but if the work had been done right the first time I would be a great deal happier.
Cargo, the maker of the hydraulic system, wants me to have a dedicated electrical line installed from the truck brake mechanism which requires a secondary line that will attach when I hook the truck and trailer together. This is separate from the 7 pin connector. Have any of you ever heard of this happening before? Has anyone had do this for their rig?Posted: 8:09 AM – Sep 18, 2013I have the kodiak and a Carlisle activator and no problem.. Easy Lube axel. Recently talked with a Dexter Rep at the Grand National Rally and said he preferred the Easy lube over the never lube. You might check with MorRyde about getting a different actuator. I believe they use the Carlisle on the new Lifestyle trailers that have disc brakes. Dexter also makes an actuator.
FSPosted: 12:29 PM – Sep 18, 2013Never heard of having to run dedicated electrical line for the brakes. We have the Dexter dual piston disc brakes with the Carlisle actuator, Never lube bearings and had no problems at all. The system works flawlessly. Possibly the Cargo system isn’t compatible with your brake controller or a problem in the brake controller itself. I was reading on another forum that on the new 2013 Dodge trucks that you cannot use an aftermarket controller, it will cause the brakes to to be locked up all the time. Get them to switch out the actuator if possible.Chip
Posted: 2:41 PM – Sep 18, 2013I tried to research “Cargo” brake actuator and cant find anything. Dexter had a recall on their actuator back in 2011.
http://www.recallrecord.com/equipment/d … eactuator/Chip
Posted: 5:29 PM – Sep 18, 2013One more question. I noticed from one of your previous posts that you had a 2010 chevy. Are you using the Integrated brake controller? If so have you had your Integrated brake controller modified for the electric over hydraulic brakes? I thought the 2010 chevy controller was not compatible with e over h systems. Here is a link.http://www.etrailer.com/question-33858.html
Chip
Posted: 8:19 PM – Sep 18, 2013Last weekend we finished the switch over to disc brakes on our Cameo. Our 2011 Silverado with factory integrated controller with a Titan BrakeRite actuator required this:
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and … 46000.html
phillipPosted: 10:49 PM – Sep 18, 2013jdpm wrote:Last weekend we finished the switch over to disc brakes on our CameoHow did the install go Phillip?
Posted: 4:53 PM – Sep 19, 2013In May 8 2013 my GMC 2008 wouldn’t talk to my 2011 Carriage either. We had to get after market
brake Tekonsha P3. Far as the disc brake there really great, there from the factory.
I also wouldn’t want a rv with out them.
I had look into a Carlisle Control Adapter Module for HydraStar Electric-Hydraulic Brake Actuators
and was told by a man there I could need up to 2 of them. I asked what he would do if it was his
rv and he said go buy a Tekonsha P3.
Buying a Carriage I hope to never buy another RV, me and my planning.Posted: 12:42 PM – Sep 23, 2013Bernie,What is your tow vehicle year, make, model and Single or dually? Does it have factory controller? You might need to know the month of the build in case they changed the controller mid year. Actuator folks should be able to tell you what controllers work, and if Chevy/GMC, if the interim module is needed or will work.
Are you sure of the actuator manufacturer’s name?
Posted: 12:27 PM – Sep 24, 2013Our 2010 3500HD Chevy is a single wheel not a dually. I picked up the trailer on Saturday and the brakes behaved as they should. Essentially, the repair shop established a dedicated line from the battery to the actuator (both positive and negative). Why this played a part in the locked brakes is an enigma to me. I will keep a close eye on this and if the brakes lock again, I will spring for a Tekonsha Prodigy and have the Integrated brake controller reflashed to remove it from the Chevy system. Incidentally, I spotted a short in the fifth wheel wiring inside the umbilical cord after I brought the trailer home. I stripped the wire and joined them back together away from the screw that had caused the short. Don’t you wonder what that might have caused? Cargo is the name of the actuator but their company name may be different. The people at Cargo and Mor-Ryde worked very hard to make this right and I am satisfied with their intent. The shop that fixed the trailer is Edmundson RV in Edinburgh, Indiana just north of Columbus, In. They are a great shop to work with and I recommend them.Posted: 1:44 PM – Sep 24, 2013Bernie.Possibly this “Cargo” actuator is new technology designed to communicate with the older factory IBC hence the need to the dedicated line. The only factory brake controllers that I have seen that work correctly with E/H brake systems are on the newer trucks and have an actual setting in the display for them or to modify them with electronic devices or magnets wired in. My 2010 and 2011 Dodge would work the brakes but only when I had it turned almost all the way up but still didn’t work correctly. I switched it out for a Maxbrake controller that ties into the master cylinder and the difference was night and day. 100% proportional with my truck brakes because it senses the brakes being applied to the master cylinder. When I traded in my 2010 Ram 3500 I kept the Maxbrake and installed it into my 2011 Ram 4500. I’m glad you had a happy ending to this ordeal and I hope everything works like it should. Welcome to the forum.
Chip
Posted: 9:38 PM – Sep 24, 2013Chip
I assume the Maxbrake works on any vehicle. What does the Maxbrake cost? Is this a difficult install?Bernie
Posted: 9:52 PM – Sep 24, 2013As I recall it is about $350 and worth every penny. I got it from Dutch and Di (PlugItRight.com). It was easy to install and is a world apart from most all other controllers. I replaced a Tekonsha P3 with the MaxBrake. Always smooth stops that are directly proportional to how much pressure is applied to the brake pedal. You will ot be disappointed.Posted: 6:37 AM – Sep 25, 2013If you handy with tools and have a basic knowledge of brake systems you wont have a problem installing a Maxbrake. You will have to remove a brake line from the master cylinder and install a tee in it’s place then re attach the line and a sensor. You will then have to bleed the sensor and it’s very easy but requires two people and there are detailed instructions with the controller. The last part is finding an existing place to run the sensor wire through the firewall and to the unit. I used the rubber grommet for the speedo cable. You will also need a free spot to mount the small unit. Figure 3 to 4 hours.Chip
Posted: 7:10 AM – Dec 31, 2013A word of caution, if you currently have Nev r Lube bearings with a 12 1/4 X 2 1/2 inch brakes you will have to change the axles beams out as well. The mfg. of disc brakes did not desigen a caliber bracket for that spindle.If you have the 12 1/4 X 2 1/2 with traditional bearings or the EZ lube you can convert to Disc.
B.W.Gentry
Owner/Admin
2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
Breckenridge, TX
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