32FWS Awning. No power to switch.

Trying to get the “Bugs” in our 32FWS figured out. 

We have a Travelr awning that barely worked when we first checked it.
The awning was put out twice, but only came back in by the wall switch the first time.
I have found that there is not 12 volt present to the switch. I had to use a 12 volt jump box to reel it up at the jumper terminals at the power head. So, I know that the motor is good.
My question is if anybody knows where the 12v+ and 12V- wires from the switch, tie into the circuit?
The fuse is labeled something like “awning, bath, stool” . So, I have to figure that it is somewhere near the bathroom where it should have the connections. I believe that either the positive lead, or the negative lead came disconnected from the circuit. But, I can’t find where they junction.
Thanks for any insight or help you may be able to give.

moo2613 wrote:Assuming you have already pulled the switch. You may have to remove the back wall of the storage area to have a look. It is not hard to do, just a little tight.

I have pulled the wall behind the switch. I can see to where the harness from the switch goes up and over the storage ceiling/bathroom floor, but can’t follow it from there.

On a positive note, I did find that 2 of the flexible vacuum hoses were not attached to the 2 hose ports worth a damn. attached those properly, and now that vacuum really sucks! 

Try turning on all bathroom/stool lights on. Then, after pulling that fuse out, do any of the bathroom/ stood lights still work? Of the lights that no longer work, which is closest to that awming switch? The one over the shower? Pull the fixture, and any related wallinks switch out until wire connectors are exposed . Hopefully the wire to the awning switch comes with the connector. Or try having someone pull on one of the wires at the awning switch, one at a time, and see if you can hear the rattling/scraping from inside the bathroom.

I wonder why they put a motor on the same circuit as a light – seems that a higher rated fuse and wiring would be used for a motor did you check other fuses with a test light?

A max air hood is a great idea. It does however end up being the tallest part of your 5er. Adding a hood with an integrated fan usually ends up being less tall than the separate hood. Getting the heights is difficult without looking at the box.

I upgraded to an integrated unit years ago. It was quiet and worked much better. Then, 2 years ago I was on the roof doing something and put an elbow through the outer portion of the skylight over the shower. Rather than replacing the skylight, I went for one of the newer integrated units with the motorized opener and remote control. I bought the upgraded for two reasons I mounted the remote to the outside of the shower wall for easy on/off/speed change. Also, the remote unit has a lower low speed that draws very little power I leave that on the lowest speed when in storage. Could not do that without some small/large solar or other charger. Easy to tap into power at the light above the shower.

Ages ago i added a hood on tge kitchen roof fan. On hot days when travelling, I leave that fan hood open, but fan off. It keeps inside at ambient rather than becoming hotter.

Hoods of any type make it a bit darker inside, but you also get rid of the solar heat gain, particularly from the skylight.