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Just took delivery of a new 38RS with the residential ref. According to my sales sheet and the info at the Sept Hersey Show there are supposed to be using PURE SINE INVERTERS. The one in the picture Is NOT a pure sine thus it is not the right one.It is the same one in my unit. I am working this out with the factory as we speak. If you do not use a pure Sine inverter you do not have the type of power that will protect the newer high-tech boards in the re,. a/c, computers etc.Posted: 8:45 PM – Jan 22, 2014My 2014 LS36FW also has the residential refrigerator. It came with the Kisae Inverter/Charger 55amp. Per the Kisae website it is a “Premium Sinewave Output to run motors and sensitive electronic equipment .” The 2014 Lifestyle Brochure states that they use Magnum 2000W pure sine wave with a 100 amp charger.Posted: 8:57 PM – Jan 22, 2014“Premium Sine Wave” doesn’t give the pertinent information. Inverters are either modified sine wave or pure sine wave. Many things work fine with a modified sine wave. However, only a true sine wave accurately mimics the chacteristics of AC power. If the 2014 catalog lists a Magnum 2000w pure sine wave I would demand they swap it out. Magnum is the gold standard of inverter/chargers. They are about MUCH more costly than a modified sine unit. The specs for the Kisea indicate it is pure sine wave with a cost of about $700. The Magnum costs about $1,700. I believe there is probably $1,000 in better parts, performance and longevity in the Magnum.Posted: 2:27 PM – Jan 23, 2014That is my point. I bought the package BECAUSE it had the Magnum 2000 watt inverter with the 100 Amp charger and it was pure sine. I believe that the decision was made to put the sine vrs pure sine because of COST. The sine they are using is about $600.00 and the Magnum they have advertised in there description is $2,000.00.
I am still working with the factory on this. Anyone who has the Kisae Sine-inverter should do the same. your ref and other sensitive components will probably fail after the warrantee. You need a PURE SINE to supply you with the correct power.Posted: 10:13 AM – Jan 26, 2014
Image no longer available. Deleted by ImageShack – Please Repost Image if possible with new method
This is the invertor installed on my 14 LS38rs.
this is pulled from my manual:
The output of the MS Series inverter—which is pure sine wave—is equal to, or in many cases,
better than the utility power used in your home. Virtually any electronic device will operate from a
pure sine wave inverter. Motors run cooler, microwaves usually cook faster, and clocks keep better
time just to name a few examples. Without compromising quality or performance, the MagnaSine
provides you with all the advantages of a pure sine wave inverter at a much lower cost than many
on the market.Posted: 10:18 AM – Jan 26, 2014That’s the unit. Good that they are installing per published specs. DGMDIM should be getting a new inverter!Posted: 12:41 PM – Jan 26, 2014Otterlakeram
Can you tell me when you got your 38RS? I got mine on 12/06/13. I just wondering when they stopped putting in the pure sine inverters. I am still trying to get this corrected with the factory.
Thanks
DonPosted: 2:27 PM – Jan 26, 2014It would be a good idea for everyone to sign their posts with the model, year, and production date of their Lifestyles. Problems out of manufacturing facilities usually occur during certain timeframes.Posted: 4:42 PM – Jan 26, 2014That is a Great Idea. I am new to this forum and not sure how to set up everything yet. My unit was delivered to me on 12//06/13. I was at the factory and saw part of the build. Never checked out the electronics. I sent a reply earlier today to this post and it has not been posted. Not sure whyPosted: 6:09 PM – Jan 26, 2014My sticker has a born on month of Apr/13. I didnt buy until 12/13.Posted: 6:55 PM – Jan 26, 2014I have added both production date and purchase date to my signature.Posted: 8:17 PM – Jul 19, 2014Otterlakeram wrote:
This is the invertor installed on my 14 LS38rs.
this is pulled from my manual:
The output of the MS Series inverter—which is pure sine wave—is equal to, or in many cases,
better than the utility power used in your home. Virtually any electronic device will operate from a
pure sine wave inverter. Motors run cooler, microwaves usually cook faster, and clocks keep better
time just to name a few examples. Without compromising quality or performance, the MagnaSine
provides you with all the advantages of a pure sine wave inverter at a much lower cost than many
on the market.I have a few questions about the residential refrigerator upgrade from the factory with this inverter….
1) does having the Magnum inverter charger delete the standard Progressive charger/converter which is a 3 stage battery charger? I know that the Magnum is a battery charger, as well. However, is it a 3 stage charger like the standard Progressive Dynamics converter/charger?
2) Is the change-over from battery/inverter power to shore power seamless due to a auto switch over that is already built into the Magnum?
Thanks for the input? PhillipPosted: 8:43 PM – Jul 19, 2014Hi Phillip:For question 1, when the dealer installed our 2800 watt Magnum pure sine inverter charger, they disconnected the factory installed unit. I believe our Magnum is a 4 stage charger, 120 amps, I recall. We have the remote panel with our Magnum and you can manually switch from inverter to charger, and monitor output through the readout. If we sell our rig, the Magnum is coming with me and I will hook up the factory converter/charger.
Rick
Posted: 9:08 PM – Jul 19, 2014Thanks Rick for such a speedy reply. My little mind is gathering info for a possible upgrade in the Fall. Thanks! Phillipbtw, I hope you ’11 Silverado and 31ksls is still serving you well. Our new set up is working out well. Love both of the new rigs and the dually is really stable. Safe travels.
Posted: 11:32 AM – Jul 20, 2014Hi Phillip – not to get off topic, but we spent 7 months in our 31KSLS last fall to this spring. Yesterday, we crafted Chip’s slide shaft fix for the dining slide (although the kitchen slide is the most likely to fail, due to design). We perhaps may look at a Lifestyle as a future RV, perhaps the 34SB or the 35SB (where the residential fridge is an option). Hope to not have to buy a dually.By the way, when the dealer installed our inverter, the whole AC side of the rig was powered. When wanting AC power when dry camping, I need to remember to turn off all breakers, except the one that powers the outlets, or massive amperage draw from our batteries!
Rick
Posted: 4:58 PM – Jul 20, 2014Rick,That was a pretty cheap way to do the install, and if careful it works fine so long as you don’t have your inverter set to auto and have it tied to an automatic transfer switch for swap over in the event of the loss of shore power. It is easy to add a proper subpanel to finish the job. .
You definitely need to have on a non-battery circuit, have a separate switch, or unplug your smart charger if you don’t have an integrated inverter/smart charger like you now have.
Posted: 8:29 AM – Jul 25, 2014I’m interested in a 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter only, no charger. There many to choose from and some have a slightly better efficiency rating than others as well as better reputation for reliability. If anyone has a recommendation for a quality inverter brand, please post. Thanks, PhillipPosted: 10:19 AM – Jul 25, 2014JohnD222 wrote:Rick,That was a pretty cheap way to do the install, and if careful it works fine so long as you don’t have your inverter set to auto and have it tied to an automatic transfer switch for swap over in the event of the loss of shore power. It is easy to add a proper subpanel to finish the job. .
You definitely need to have on a non-battery circuit, have a separate switch, or unplug your smart charger if you don’t have an integrated inverter/smart charger like you now have.
Hi John:
Not sure what you are asking, but dealer installed a sub-panel with a 30 amp breaker. The transfer switch that used to be in the front compartment is now in the behind the wall of the centre compartment. I have not tried plugging into shore power when the inverter was on, but theoretically, the transfer switch should take care of the load.
It was perhaps easier wiring the entire rig to AC from the inverter, but if I have the hot water tank on AC, my battery voltage would drop considerably in short order. As such I turn all breakers off, except the one that energizes the wall plugs.
Rick
Posted: 9:04 AM – Jul 26, 2014jdpm wrote:I’m interested in a 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter only, no charger. There many to choose from and some have a slightly better efficiency rating than others as well as better reputation for reliability. If anyone has a recommendation for a quality inverter brand, please post. Thanks, PhillipAfter resurching, I bought and installed a Samlex 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter.
Lillyputz
Posted: 12:43 PM – Jul 26, 2014Rick,From your initial description it sounded like you had no subpanel. If they did the subpanel, it should not be a quick or cheapie install.
On that subpanel should be all of the circuits you want to have on the inverter, and no others. So if you don’t have an integrated inverter charger, you want to be sure the stand alone charger is not fed by the subpanel.
If working correctly, the inverter should not back feed to the main panel. The transfer switch is what is supposed to stop this, and also disconnect the inverter when shore power returns. The inverter still runs in auto mode that consumes a bit of energy, but there is no serious battery drain because the ac circuits were taken off line via the transfer switch.
Yes, you can be safe if you manually switch off the unwanted breakers on the main panel, or subpanel, as you are doing, but I would really recommend that you have someone knowledgeable look at what was done. Sounds to me like the default power source and the swap-over power sources in the transfer switch were mixed up UNLESS for some reason the subpanel was wired with more than circuits intended for the inverter and you are turning off breakers in the subpanel. A subpanel and transfer switch are supposed to eliminate the need for any manual effort with breakers as you switch power sources.
If you also have generator prep including a factory transfer switch for it, the “default” can become somewhat convoluted and easily mixed up.
rwb_wl wrote:JohnD222 wrote:Rick,That was a pretty cheap way to do the install, and if careful it works fine so long as you don’t have your inverter set to auto and have it tied to an automatic transfer switch for swap over in the event of the loss of shore power. It is easy to add a proper subpanel to finish the job. .
You definitely need to have on a non-battery circuit, have a separate switch, or unplug your smart charger if you don’t have an integrated inverter/smart charger like you now have.
Hi John:
Not sure what you are asking, but dealer installed a sub-panel with a 30 amp breaker. The transfer switch that used to be in the front compartment is now in the behind the wall of the centre compartment. I have not tried plugging into shore power when the inverter was on, but theoretically, the transfer switch should take care of the load.
It was perhaps easier wiring the entire rig to AC from the inverter, but if I have the hot water tank on AC, my battery voltage would drop considerably in short order. As such I turn all breakers off, except the one that energizes the wall plugs.
Rick
Hi John:We have a sub-panel with one 30 amp breaker. It was installed behind the centre compartment is a task to get at. Our Magnum inverter is also a 120 amp charger, so when we are plugged in to shore power it will maintain the batteries to supplement our 190 watts of solar.
Seems to me that the installer probably connected to the main AC power so the entire rig is powered from the inverter (easier than isolating circuits?). This morning I turned on the inverter at our storage area, and the Magnum panel was indicating a draw of about 130 amps, and my battery voltage dropped quickly. I would have rather had only the wall outlets energized, even then, I have to remember to switch the fridge to gas, as it defaults to AC, when available.
Thanks for your ideas. I am ok as long as I remember to only turn on the specified breaker. I am considering switching out my 37″ Samsung LCD to a 40″ Samsung LED, to reduce power consumption when boondocking.
Rick
Posted: 9:38 PM – Jul 26, 2014Rick, the transfer switch or subpanel was installed incorrectly. The subpanel should not feed your frig, microwave, air conditioners, water heater or inverter. It should also NEVER be installed at in inaccessible location.130 amps at 12 volts is 1,560 watts. At 120 volts, this is 13 amps. Plus or minus some inefficiencies. A pretty large battery bank and a 2000 watt inverter would be required to sustain this.
Maybe everything is OK with you turning off breakers when on inverter power, but that subpanel could be incorrectly wired to carry way more than its 30 amp rating when on inverter, and maybe also when it is on shore power. The latter is the scary part.
I can only guess at what was done. Maybe they pulled just one wrong circuit or extra circuit incorrectly from the main panel feed into the subpanel, maybe it is a mess with all load feeding through the subpanel whether on shore power or inverter power. Easy enough to figure out, but you need to have a good multimeter and access to both panels and the transfer switch. A buddy to throw breakers will speed things along.
rwb_wl wrote:Hi John:We have a sub-panel with one 30 amp breaker. It was installed behind the centre compartment is a task to get at. Our Magnum inverter is also a 120 amp charger, so when we are plugged in to shore power it will maintain the batteries to supplement our 190 watts of solar.
Seems to me that the installer probably connected to the main AC power so the entire rig is powered from the inverter (easier than isolating circuits?). This morning I turned on the inverter at our storage area, and the Magnum panel was indicating a draw of about 130 amps, and my battery voltage dropped quickly. I would have rather had only the wall outlets energized, even then, I have to remember to switch the fridge to gas, as it defaults to AC, when available.
Thanks for your ideas. I am ok as long as I remember to only turn on the specified breaker. I am considering switching out my 37″ Samsung LCD to a 40″ Samsung LED, to reduce power consumption when boondocking.
Rick
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