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CLOC-Admin.
CLOC-Admin.- Topic
CLOC-AdminI’ll try to keep this short, while explaining my issue.I mounted an LED light strip under my awning. I wired it to the scare light, so the switch by the door works the new lights. I disconnected the scare light, but left it in place. After I did this, I found a remote control that will work the LED’s. If I get it, I would like to reconnect the scare light and have them both work individually.
The problem is that there are only 2 wires behind the scare light. Pos and neg, or in and out if you will. If the switch by the door is off, there is no power to the wires, the switch energizes the circuit. Is there a way to get continuous power to that spot, while keeping the scare light circuit intact? I do NOT want to open walls or run new wires.
I realize that this may be impossible, but I’m hoping that someone with more experience with DC might have an idea..
Thanks,
CliffPosted: 10:39 AM – Jun 03, 2014I don’t think it is possible since the hot lead is feeding the switch and you have no way to get a traveler to provide a second hot lead.Posted: 10:59 AM – Jun 03, 2014You could drill and mount a couple weatherproof switches under the scare light to control both lights when you have the inside switch on. You could leave the new switch on all the time for the scare light so the inside switch would control it. Then when you just want the led light strip on you could turn the scare light off with the outside switch and turn the led strip on. You would have to leave the inside switch on to do this so power would be at the scare light.Or you could change the light out like the one in the pic and only have to add 1 switch. Carriage placed these lights by the sewer hook up and the pin box area. They appear to be the same size as the scare light only with a switch.
Here is a crude schematic.
Chip.
Posted: 11:17 AM – Jun 03, 2014I think the problem is that the scare light is located at the front of the trailer about 11 feet off the ground. If the LED lights were wired into the porch light, a manual on/off light would work. I installed an LED strip light to my awning rail and wired it to the porch wiring. The old fixture is now a junction box. I didn’t bother replacing it with a manual switch light.Posted: 11:23 AM – Jun 03, 2014Jpcovert1 wrote:I think the problem is that the scare light is located at the front of the trailer about 11 feet off the ground. If the LED lights were wired into the porch light, a manual on/off light would work. I installed an LED strip light to my awning rail and wired it to the porch wiring. The old fixture is now a junction box. I didn’t bother replacing it with a manual switch light.I dont know why I was thinking porch light……
ChipPosted: 11:41 AM – Jun 03, 2014You could possibly use a 2 channel remote set up like this. Might have a hard time finding somewhere to mount the boxes though, maybe inside the wardrobe?. Just a thought. Just depends how much trouble you want to go through to do it.
Chip
http://www.carhidkits.com/wireless-cont … r-432.htmlPosted: 11:52 AM – Jun 03, 2014JP, you’re right the light is way up there. That is the problem. I mounted the light strip under the awning at the coach wall, which is why I went into the scare light. It was the closest available power source.Chip, I may do a variation on your idea. This http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AHU … em_2p_1_ti is the wireless remote I found for the LED’s. It is small enough to go inline behind the wall, if I can find a similar, simple on/off wireless remote for the scare light, I can charge the whole circuit with the inside wall switch and then just use the remote(s) as necessary.
I knew that someone on here would help solve this one way or another.
Cliff
B.W.Gentry
Owner/Admin
2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
Breckenridge, TX
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