Question about residential refrigerators

Am going to install one in my Cameo 35SB3 ( because my wife thinks she needs more room). My question is how do you guys make out with keeping the doors shut during travel?
Does the magnetic seal work well enough? or should I consider designing some sort of latch to clasp the doors closed during travel?

Ours is a double door and I just put a Velcro strap around the handles and it hasn’t opened in over 5 years of traveling and full time use.
Chip

The Samsung refer in our Lifestyle came factory-equipped with an excellent lock/latch. You can get one from Amazon. Here’s the link: 

Happy trails,

Bill

I agree. I also have the factory supplied Samsung ref. with lock and latch. Looks the same as the Amazon one.

I made my own. While not as sophisticated as the one included from LS or available on Ebay, it works well and is invisible while camping. I made mine with a trip to Lowes for a few parts and a few dollars. Works like champ. Its a threaded rod, a couple of nuts, a knob, a felt covered large washer, and a tee-nut that is attached permanently into the fridge with 3 small screws. Here is a link to my previous post with pix.
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1669&start=10

Thanks JPDM, I could do that with a rivnut into the fridge between the doors.

When unhooking the existing 2 way fridge, do I just cap the gas line and the wires to the control?
Anything special I need to now when removing the old fridge?

We capped off the gas line. I also fully sealed the exterior vent panels. ON that subject, you’ll be glad you have those during the install as it sure makes it easier to connect the power and ice maker as well as securing it the floor at the rear. When you get a factory build with residential fridge you do not get any access panel that I have seen except on a few brands of class A motorhomes.
I capped off the 12 volt power line but have since tapped into it to add the new puck lights that I added in the kitchen slide out. The old fridge (in our case the 4 door Norcold) is heavy at nearly 200 lbs. Its awkward to handle as it has all the components on the back plus the side are kind of flimsy. You will need help and have your plan to remove it well in place. Good luck. You will love the residential.

Job complete, the new one fits like a glove. I replaced an 8.1 Cu Ft Norcold with a Haier 10.1 cu ft. It appears a lot lighter, fit the opening exactly and I will be able to hook up something to “lock” the doors when I travel using the extra threaded holes for reversing the door hinges.
Interesting comment about blocking off the access panels JD. I will have some room ventilation above and below the fridge but is that enough? I would consider blocking the 2 access panels 80%, not sure about 100%

Blocking the vents all depends on the model fridge you have. The Samsung I have is a closed back – it gets its air from the front and circulates it around in a u pattern and throws it out the front, too. Initially, I left one line of vents open on the top vent of ours. However, it proved to be way to much air. When running the exhaust fans, it pulled way to much hot/cold air in through that vent. If you have a conventional coil back fridge, that be different.

Thanks JD
The new one is a closed back also. I will follow your experience and close them off. How did you do it? attach something to the removable panel? or put in an insulated panel behind the access panel?

I used adhesive backed aluminum tape to cover all the holes from the inside. The adhesive is white, so it blends in when looking from the outside. Works great to completely seal all the openings.

The tape is available in the HVAC section of Lowes or Depot.

I also used tape but I had some eternabond tape so I used it.
Chip