Norcold ref high temp sensor

I found this one, hope it’s what you are looking for.

http://www.rvtechlibrary.com/appliances/noco_new.pdf

Here’s one more

http://www.rvtechlibrary.com/appliances/noco_old.pdf

Hello

Let me say first I’m a tech and have been trying to get the complete info about what is going on with if the temperature monitor is resetable or not. I know some people have had to wait on hold for a long time so I called at 8am on the dot this morning and didn’t have to wait. I talked to her for about 20 min but here is the jist of that part of the conversation.

ME: So the new sensor shuts the unit completely off?
SR: Yes, on a 1200 the unit will look like a completely dead box, no operation and not lights on the front display. On 1210 units and 1200 units that have a newer controller the unit will have no operation but a LI oP code will show on the front display.

ME: If the sensor shuts down the unit can it be reset?
SR: No.

ME: So the cooling unit will have to be replaced?
SR: Maybe. It will have to be taken to a tech so they can do some diagnostics. The tech will check to see if the monitor failed OR if the cooling unit is in fact bad.

ME: So if the monitor is bad the tech can replace it and the cooling unit will NOT be replaced?
SR: Yes, that is correct. The tech will diagnose the problem and if the cooling unit is found to be bad it will have to be replaced, if the monitor is bad it will be replaced.

ME: So the monitors can be purchased seprate from a cooling unit?
SR: Yes, by approved service centers, like the ones performing the recall.

ME: I read on-line that if the temp sensor shuts down the unit the only fix was to replace the cooling unit?
SR: If the monitor shuts down the unit a tech will have to check the monitor AND the cooling unit, then replace what ever has failed.

arrowhead wrote:Traveler. Thanks for the info. I do have a question.Have you ever requested specific info from the techs that are listed on the rv library? I believe they charge a fee so just wasnt sure how well it works.

I’ve not requested any help myself. Did you get it working?

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Jpcovert1 wrote:Quick fix for a BIG problem. How did you get that little gem of knowledge?

Did a lot of internet searching, and a very understanding dealer that was 4 hours away. Before i found that fix i used a temporary fix by joining the 12v in and the 12v out with a standard blade fuse, but not recommended, as if there is a problem with the fridge it has the potential to burn the coach down as it bypasses the safety device of the high limit switch.

The magnet is the way to go as it resets the switch and leaves the safety device is still functional.

Al G

Does this come on newer units? I don’t recall seeing it, but will go looking in the daylight. We have a 2008 Cameo and a Norcold model 1095.

Drillking, what year was your previous rig/fridge.

SaskRiverRat, this would be a great addition to our “How To” library.

SaskRiverRat wrote:Li – oP flashing on the fridge inside. This is what I did, went outside to remove access door to back of fridge, found the black box with a red LED that was on, remove the 12v in power to the high temperature sensor control unit, and then use a magnet on a stick (pick-up magnet). Place the magnet next to the LED slide the magnet from right to left and you should hear a clicking sound from the control unit. Reinstall the 12v power supply to the control unit and the red LED should go out and the failure code on the fridge inside should disappear. The fridge should now be working,
Before doing this you should be checking that everything looks ok and there are no signs of high heat damage, if you do see signs of this take it to a professional.
I will try to add a picture of the switch (box with LED)
Al G

This exact same thing happened to me yesterday. Pulled in to a campground. Found fridge inoperative with the Li-oP flashing. Called in an RV Tech.
He said the high temp sensor has blown. Whats that?
He said there were two recalls on the Norcold involving new sensors.
1. The first was the cracking tubes that start an ammonia leak and hydrogen fire.
2. The second was a problem where the flame expands outside of the fire box, and sets the sidewall of the trailer, MH on fire. He said this latter occurs when people don’t clean or have serviced the burner tube assy. The fire tries to light, doesn’t for a while but it keeps feeding fuel to the burner, and then you get a whoosh! The burning gas expands outside the burner box, and can ignite inflammable stuff out there.

Norcold’s fix for the second is to install a high temp sensor out in the fridge compartment, that if it sees high temp outside the burner box, will shut off the gas. That sensor is the one that is failing.
He said he’s seen over a hundred of the recalls fail.
I said what do you do? He said I put a 10A fuse in and keep on going. If you have the fridge serviced correctly, and clean out all the rust flakes and debris in the burner area. you’ll never get that temporary lack of ignition and won’t have a problem. He said he has an RV himself, and would never install one of the high temp sensors.
I asked about the resetting, and he said he’s tried to reset everyone he’s been involved with, but got success only on a couple of them. He admitted he might not have the right technique, or a strong enough magnet.

He was a real nice guy to talk to.

Sheff