- This topic has 5 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 4 months ago by
Fran Winkeler.
Fran Winkeler.- Topic
Fran Winkeler- Topics - 4
- Replies - 20
- Total - 24
I have spent hours searching and reading. I will continue but hope in posting this question I might get some direction for an answer.
I have a 2008 Cameo F35SB3. The dinette slide goes out without a problem. When I start bring the slide in the bottom moves ahead of the top, the slide seems to jam and stops during the first foot of movement.
I have been bringing the slide in a few inches, walk over and grab the top trim, pulling it in and inch, and then running the slide in further, repeating one more time if need.
I have considered raising the outer wall via the adjustments but where they are now aligns the decals, initial factory location.
I have been in the Gold member section, looking at the diagrams but I really just don’t understand how the slide raises up a couple of inches while entering the body of the RV.
- Replies
- JohnD222
- Topics - 8
- Replies - 518
- Total - 526
Lubricate the slide seals – both inside and out. Use 303 or slide seal lubricant. Plan on black hands and rags. The inside is only accessible when the slide is halfway in or out.
I trust that reg screws holding the plastic pan down to the 5er floor are all snug and have not backed out. Lift up the slider carpet when slide is fully out. If any have backed out add a dab of caulk to the threads to hold screws in. You may need a slightly wider screw if wood is stripper. Use caul on that too to keep it from backing out.
JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)Fran Winkeler- Topics - 4
- Replies - 20
- Total - 24
John,
Thanks for the information. I had the screw issue a few years back. After repairing the slide’s membrane. I had not seen any of the tell tail damage associated with that problem.
I am going at it from two directions. I am going to look for voltage lost to the slide motor and lube the seals.
I just notices about 12 inches of the top seal is loose of the frame, so that is on my list also.
Thanks again, Fran
Denis Dunderdale- Topics - 0
- Replies - 5
- Total - 5
Fran, I have exactly the same problem on my 2011 F37RESLS Cameo. Not real sure of the cause, nor if it’s a symptom of a looming larger issue, yet to present itself. When the slide stalls on its way in, it’s always at the same spot – about 1 ft. in from its fully extended position. What I do is back it out about all the way, and start again. It always stalls again, at the same point, but usually overcomes the stall and continues retracting inward on its own. This is the case when I’m plugged in to 110 ac power. If I’m on 12v (battery) power, it usually works if the batteries are fully charged. If they are depleted at all, it usually stays stalled in its “stalled position”. I have to fully extend the slide and charge the batteries (2-6v interstate golf cart type). Once they are charged, I can get the slide to “get past its stall hump”.
Due to the above scenario, I suspect the slide motor to be experiencing some voltage drop, but I’m not enough of a technician to really know what causes the issue.Any help form other member is appreciated by at lease Fran and me.
Claymier- Topics - 0
- Replies - 1
- Total - 1
I have a 2007 Cameo 31 foot and the living room slide motor recently failed. While the motor was rather new, the connecting bolts had been installed without using locktite resulting in one of them loosening up and ultimately causing the failure. If the bolts are loose, it can cause play in the motor, problems while going in and out and ultimate failure. There is a zippered access port underneath the slide where the motor can be viewed to ensure the bolts are tight and have been properly installed using locktite. While underneath the slide, you will also have access to the rack and pinion mechanism the motor uses to move the slide in and out. The rack portion should be excamined for any kind of dirt/debrie that might have built up which can cause a sticking problem plus it can be sprayed with a lub meant for this purpose – lubing this area should be added to your maintenance schedule. The rubber slide seals are usually not strong enough to pinch and prevent moving of the slide but they should also be sprayed occassionally with a proper lub and replaced if torn.
Fran Winkeler- Topics - 4
- Replies - 20
- Total - 24
The foam H seal at the top on my slide tore as a result of this problem. This forced me to find a better answer.
** I replaced the top seal with a thinner neoprene self seal, one on the outside and a second on the inside. Two pieces to replace the one H seal. Several are available in the www.
I trimmed a 1/2 inch off of the top 3 foot of the side seals. There is still plenty of material there and I cleaned and lubed them.
I also ran 6 gauge 12 volt wires which is only 10% more than the suggested 8 gauge wire. The solenoids completed the repair of the power drop issue. With the solenoids make sure you buy ones with a wiring diagram to understand if they will work with one or both signals, positive and negative. I disconnected the negative wires at the switches and only a positive 12 volt signal works the solenoids. With the proper ones, you might not need to do this.
Bottom line is my dinette side works like new.
JohnD222
Denis Dunderdale
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