- This topic has 3 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 1 month ago by
dollarhide.
dollarhide.- Topic
expired-member- Topics - 86
- Replies - 191
- Total - 277
We live in our LS37CKSL full time and are having trouble retracting our dining room slide. If it does come in it labors to get started and then moves very slowly the rest of the way. The fix as I understand it is to install a solenoid and mount it as close to the motor as possible. Is there an existing Solent that this is replacing?
Once the solenoid is in place run an dedicated fused 8 guage wire from the + side of the battery and a ground wire to the solenoid.
Connect the red and black wires coming from the slide motor to the solenoid.
What I don’t understand is how to make the other two connections. Do they come directly from the rocker switch above the door or do they come from the limit switch for this slide?
Thx in advance for any help on this fix.
expired-member- Replies
- JohnD222
- Topics - 8
- Replies - 518
- Total - 526
There is no solenoid oem. The wires go from battery through two or 3 switches (2 under garbage can, 3 if bedroom door location retracting slide), then to rocker switch, then to motor. that long run reduces amps available at motor
with solenoid, it takes very few amps to trigger the solenoid. The solenoid then pass full amperage to motor via new large wires from battery using the oem switches and rocker switch
when adding solenoid, remember which way the toggle goes to make the slide come in. make final wire swap with slide halfway out. Connect wires. When you use toggle once the solenoid is in and wall moves in the opposite direction than oem, just reverse the wires at the solenoid. Easiest to pull and switch the push on connectors (see below)
All wiring is at the motor. Cut those 2 wires. One end of each wire comes from toggle switch and the other goes to the motor. My solenoid uses standard auto push on connectors for the wires coming from solenoid. Two new heavy wires (from battery and ground) use round bolt on connectors. Two wires to motor are also round bolt on connectors. The solenoid (Amazon) does not come with those connectors, but does come with washers and nuts for bolt on connections. Solenoid (Amazon) comes with mounting bracket but no bolts or nuts for mounting.
put appropriate sized replaceable fuse in large wire from battery + terminal – somewhere easy to replace if it blows. 20 amp should be fine but my wire could draw 30 so I used 30.
JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)JohnD222- Topics - 8
- Replies - 518
- Total - 526
Jim,
my reply above has a typo:
”All wiring is at the motor. Cut those 2 wires. One end of each wire comes from toggle switch and the other goes to the motor. My solenoid uses standard auto push on connectors for the wires coming from solenoid. …”
should have said:
”All wiring is at the motor. Cut those 2 wires. One end of each wire comes from toggle switch and the other goes to the motor. My solenoid uses standard auto push on connectors for the wires coming from TOGGLE SWITCH. …”
the reason I say make the swap when the slide is halfway out is because if the wires are swapped incorrectly at first, and the toggle causes the slide to go in the wrong direction, the cutoff switches will not stop the slide and, if not corrected (swapped) the cutoff switch mounting bracket will be crushed or the switch broken, or both.
the motor runs in both directions. Which way depends on which wire gets the power from the + side of the battery. If slide goes in the wrong direction I say swap the push on terminals because that is easier. Swapping the bolt on connectors from solenoid to motor will do the same thing, but takes a bit more time. The + and – terminals on the solenoid for the large new wires from the battery are clearly marked on the solenoid. If slide goes in the wrong direction, swapping these would also Chang direction of slide movement, but not advised.
JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)dollarhide- Topics - 0
- Replies - 38
- Total - 38
Jim,
We have a 2014 Lifestyle 36FWS. We were having problems with both slides.
The big slide ran alright at first but later got where you could run it out but you had to run it all the way out before it would run in. After a little wire tracing I found the 12 volts for the motor came from the fuse box through the limit switches and bedroom door switch back to the motor. The motor was rated at 15 Amps DC and the limit switches were rated at 15 Amps AC but only 1/2 Amp DC. There is a big difference in the AC and DC rating of switches. Since the switches were being used at a much higher current than rated, every time they opened they would arc. After some use they became burnt and resistive.
The fix was to insert two automotive relays rated at 40 Amps DC at the motor. Now the only current that goes through the switches is the current needed to operate the relays. The current that runs the motor comes from a pair of wires I ran from the fuse box. Since the switches were damaged I replaced them too. I also wired the bedroom door switch so the slide would run out if the switch was open but not in. I need to go back and add a switch to the bathroom door as it can be a problem too. Everything works great now.
The door side slide was hanging up when it was run in. Since it used the same switches I rewired it too. I also found the limit switch actuator had never been adjusted. The nuts on it were loose. I adjusted that which fixed my problem. The metal that covers the gap was coming too far out and was hanging up on the floor when you ran it in.
All the parts were bought off ebay.
I can provide you with a schematic and pictures if your interested.
JohnD222- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.