- This topic has 4 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 1 year, 8 months ago by
ramseyjack.
ramseyjack.- Topic
ramseyjack- Topics - 30
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So I finished up the conversion of the Norcold 841 (listed as Norcold 1095) 2 door refrigerator from an absorption fridge to a 12v dc compressor. (JC Refrigeration) Draws very little power once it gets cold, and carefully shaving off foam from the top and right side, all the holes lined up. WAY easier to shave foam than re-drill the metal holes in the freezer back plate.
With no use, the 12V fridge has drawn 840w /24hr period, so 70AH. That is doable with large battery bank and solar.
Found the DC wire going to the refrigerator (2 white and 2 blk-white) is either too long or not large enough for the startup current needed for the compressor (drops below 10.2v). My guess is both.
Now the “wiring” issue had me a little perplexed, for the 3rd fuse down is labeled Refrigerator-Furnace, but pulling it did not shut off power to the refrigerator (grey wire)
Found the first wire goes to the refrigerator (purple) , labeled ODS SO lites, Pump, Dump Gooseneck lites.
????All these wires go from the fusebox into the wall and out of the drivers side wall above the smaller passthrough door. Then 95% of the bundle goes up into wall between the bathroom-bedroom, and I have not taken that wall apart yet, but I am assuming through the ceiling and then down to the frame on the outside wall again, and then to some “hidden” junction box filled with loose wire-nuts. GRIN And then some flex to the slide via the collapsible folding slide wire guides (lack of any other description).
I think I will bypass the extra 40ft up and down the walls, and just run a 10 gauge wire down the FWS drivers side directly to the folding wire guides and up into the rear of the refrigerator bay. Probably need to do the same to the communications cabinet area behind the TV, a HUGE space, where wifi, starlink, and other 12v communication stuff will probably get mounted. The Starlink itself draws around 100+ watts and not aware of any DC pulled to that rear area.
Have the Victron Multiplus II installed and the 3ea 300AH Enjoybot, LI-Time, Ampere Time, (all the same model #), supposedly low temp protected, batteries installed and can run the 13.5k ac 100% on battery and the 15KAC with just pulling 10amps from the grid or gen, (Assist mode) for around 9-10hrs, so reasonably happy. (Soft StartRV’s installed)
Now to just upgrade the DC system and pull the bottom fabric covers off to assess the black-gray tank situation. PO replaced the electric dump valves with manual ones and did a poor job. Hangs down too low, will at some point get broken off and the black tank holders are visibly not tight so assume replaced with the wrong size tank. sigh..
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- JohnD222
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Jack,
In later models, maybe yours, all wiring and propane enters the FWS via bendable conduit within one of the hinges under the slide.
All of the 120 on both 2010 and 2013 FWS except microwave and fireplace (optional) are on the same circuit. The microwave and fireplace have their own separate breakers.
I use the fireplace circuit to power all of my tv and dish stuff. The fixed cable on Starlink make that a tough spot – I use the dinette tabletop for modem, fishing cable in and out at each stop.
back to 120 behind the TV. Yes a monster space. Newer ones take better advantage of it. Floor there is a much better place for subwoofer, but more easily accessible from under the sink.
optional fireplace in both models plugged into an open single outlet at rear of the far left cabinet below the tv.
The central Samsung receiver cabinet above the tv has 120. you can drill holes thru the shelves and into the behind tv large area, the easily drop romex or an extension cord to that huge area behind tv. OR drill hole into counter high cabinet to the left of the sink that has 120 for coffee maker (on my 2010 and 2013).
If the separate fireplace circuit is not there, and you want more than one circuit powering that entire wall, you could fish new 120 to the area via the interstitial space below floor, coming up where the kitchen sink water and drains enter. You would need to create a bendable connection at that point. Once there coins go to tv and Frig directions , although Frig would require going through lower cabinets after removing drawers. Or maybe you have 120 circuit for a washer dryer that is closer.
12 volt to Frig is a tougher one because of the long run going to the interstitial space. You could run it outside in the protected area where you created access holes to adjust frame rollers. Not sure how many 12-volt circuits enter the FWS, but bringing a big wire to the bendable hinge entry and picking the correct circuit would probably fix the voltage drop.
Good luck.
JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)ramseyjack- Topics - 30
- Replies - 145
- Total - 175
Less progress today, but starting to get an understanding of the thought process on the wiring.
This is an early 2008 36Max1 (FWS) and they were using the existing labels on the DC fuse box. I can see the wiring that is colored red-white and a larger gauge (probably 12) is the color in the slide DC connection beside the water heater under the kitchen sink area, and the other red-white is the same side in parallel with the power connection to the heater just rear of the FWS slide gears assembly. It was just wire nutted off and laying in the bay. This was the gray wire fuse 3. So I am assuming on one of the models, there is a fridge in that area.
Makes sense, best to keep all the propane stuff close to each other. The FWS was a new model and they just attached the DC wiring for the fridge controls and I am assuming the DC light above the washer dryer area.
I tested by just running a pair of 50ft red-black 10 gauge from the red-white on the heater to the red-white next to the water heater, but no luck still got the dclo (DC low)(below 10.5v at startup) Locked rotor amps my guess in the fridge.
Ran the 50ft 10 gauge directly from the fuse box #3 to the connector next to the water heater and all is well, and the fridge working.
So tomorrow will use the gray wire as a pull string back to the pass through area, and using the red-black 10 gauge running to the limit switch under the sink as another pull string to pull both the #10 and a #8 spare (for the Starlink DC and the DC communication going in behind the TV), to the limit switch area and up to the area next to the water heater for the fridge. Just REALLY hard to get to that area below the slide where the hinge goes out to the slide.
Since I have the Victron Multiplus ii, If I had to do it over again I would have kept everything 120VAC
ramseyjack- Topics - 30
- Replies - 145
- Total - 175
I forgot, The JC Refrigeration instructions stated to remove the top baffle where the secondary condenser was located, so I pulled the staples out of the plywood to get a clean cut and found the build sheet for the slide. Inside the wall, completely enclosed..
I redacted the chassis #.-
This reply was modified 1 year, 8 months ago by ramseyjack.
ramseyjack- Topics - 30
- Replies - 145
- Total - 175
Re-assessment of the refrigerator wiring.
I have decided to do a second DC fuse box inside the cabinet below the entertainment area. (where the electric heater goes) I will need fused power to the DC router, Starlink boondocker.io 12v Dishy Dualy, peplink aggregator, wireless and the refrigerator.
So will run a #4 or #6 directly from the battery (with a 40 amp breaker) to a 6 way fusebox and then #10 from there to the refrig.
Wanted to get it done today but like all projects, sleeping on the problem always helps.
Looks like cleanup time with the vacuum and trash, actually from what looks like the original install.
The Victron is obviously not finished, but needed to get the AC working, it is 100 degrees here, can run the 15K ac for 10hrs off the batteries while drawing just 10 amps off a 120v extension cord.
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