- This topic has 11 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 3 years ago by
ramseyjack.
ramseyjack.-
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ramseyjack
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Purchased the 2009 36Max1 and had it transported from Texas to central California. I tested the full wall slide at least 4 times before purchase, but it was plugged into shore power always. Slide now moves out just an inch or two and appears to pry into the floor on the kitchen curved cabinet and grinds to a halt from lack of power OR binding of some sort.
Also the graphics on the outside of the unit show that area to be raised about an inch so it would make sense it is leveraged down on the inside. (I think). I have pics with the slide fully retracted and graphics matching pre-transport.
Previously the slide needed to be “bumped in from full extension” to make the bedroom door line up. (bottom pulled in close to an inch) worked perfectly in Texas
I am hoping someone tried to adjust the back of the slide “up” thinking it would bring the inside up. (kitchen cabinet hitting the floor) There are zero illustrations of this slide that I can find and from the various explanations, I currently am confused, but opening the zippers should clear a few things up (I am visual)
I am hoping it is a power issue, but prefer caution before breaking anything. I have received the relay suggested and will rewire it and open the zippers to get some sort of understanding of how this large slide works and look for anything obvious.
I did pull the storage walls out while in Texas and clean up a real mess inside and did a preliminary view of the impressive motor and chain mechanism. I have gone through all the forum posts I can find on the FWS and the Max1 full wall slides and have pasted into a 6 page document with a LOT of good stuff from JohnD222.
This is a April 2008 manufacture date so one of the first of these full wall slides, who knows..
Also it was transported with the power disconnected and used external lighting, so the batteries were disconnected. the slide break should have been engaged but who knows. This one has gone through a few hands that may have not been “Carriage versed”
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ramseyjack
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Again, reading as much as I can and trying to compile more information. Tried taking out a generator (to make it think it has shore power) with 2 full, good batteries and just a few inches of movement. Still no conclusions but crawled under and unzipped the access area between the tires and viewed the mechanism move a little. Don’t want to push it until I pull the basement apart and make sure there is nothing in the gear-chain mechanism to stop movement. There was a lot of debris PO replacing the floor with vinyl flooring. It is now all scratched up from the dining room slide also.
I am wondering if there are rollers missing. I see the rear roller but have not “pried up” on the front of the whole slide assembly to see underneath it. Is that a problem if I do? I am assuming the whole slide assembly is a large metal framed “bucket” with the cabinets attached but I have never seen or heard how they are made. don’t want to bend anything unnecessarily.
I also noticed the screws were 100% backed out on the stop switch assembly so have to be careful with not applying too much pressure on the wall. Probably how it got over-extended. Also read that if someone adjusted it they probably did it wrong. I believe that I did not adjust it when in texas, just bumped it in until the door lined up rather than do something without the right tools.
Also, screws backed out on the outside roller, those will be cute tightening up…
How and where do you get to the front rollers on the inside of the slide?
After pulling the brake and trying to move it carefully by hand with a large wrench I should know more.
Will do the relay on Saturday and rewire, attempt to tilt the inside of the slide UP to get it out far enough to adjust, (shims or wedges)
Video of digging into floor:
Video of no top movement:
Video 19.5in at bottom, 20 inched top:
JohnD222
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Jack,
you most telling photo is of the garbage can peninsula counter area.
at the innermost edge of that cabinet (towards the center of the 5er) is where the rollers is. That roller is attached to the wood cabinetry without a steel frame underneath to support it. That roller holds 70+% of total slide weight when in and cabinets full of stuff for travel- dumb design. The other main inside roller is attached to steel slider frame at the base of the stairs into the bedroom. There is another under the bed. Unfortunately, there is none under the entertainment center or desk area whichever you have in the main room. This one would be attached to the steel slider framing. Fox in Elkhart put one in a few FWS as part of wall removal and repair.
with that cabinet section broken, I doubt you will get the wall out without significant floor damage even with lots of power.
what you can try to do is take all weight possible off the peninsula wheel. That means completely empty cabinets. Then wedge a pry bar under metal frame as close to the peninsula you can get the wedge under, lifting the slide off the floor, bump slide out an inch or so, put wedge under again, repeat…
my cabinet did not break as completely as yours, but began separating pretty significantly. I was able to put it all back together wit 2×3’s and 2×4’s and a lot of glue and screws. Tight quarters, but not a terribly difficult job – just terrible that the design had no steel frame at that location.
I think it is best if you and I talk rather than me typing all of what I had to do. I am on the east coast.
john
386-864-2648
JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)ramseyjack
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Thanks John,About what I thought, none of it deal breakers, but I can’t do much until I get the slide out a bit.Everything is out of the cabinets 100% empty. only the washer and dryer in place, and can’t remove them until I get the slide out.Floor damage. NOT a problem, the cheap flooring is horrendous looking compared the the quality of the cabinets. Has to go (GRIN), budgeted for it. I think the reason carpet is in the dining room slide is to have a flexible material to cover the edges. I will send you pics of the Previous Owner’s mistakes. Plainly choose to not spend the $$ needed to fix a quality vehicle with the right stuff. I knew going in.I am an old 1970’s Porsche mechanic and rebuilding better is in my nature. First thought was of making metal subframe, but may not be either possible or necessary IF, I sort out peripheral issues properly. There are just too many unknowns and nothing documented that I can find, besides your REALLY helpful commentary.The coach has great bones and I had a BLAST rebuilding the 96 Cashay. It’s qualty build “ruined” me and I knew going in the 30 ft long slide was a negative, but the only floorplan my 100% supportive wife of all these years liked.I have an insane schedule until around 11 am your time. will call you at 11 of good for you. I am 100% NOT put off if you are busy. I understand. I leave voicemails and answer calls if not in a meeting with someone.THANKS!!!Jack Ramsey559-799-7283ramseyjack
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Success!! Slide moving in and out, have more questions than answers but at least a visible path forward.
I think a combination of things was causing the issue, the long wiring with no current passing capability, a folded over rubber gasket in the middle of the top of the 30ft slide, and a missing roller under the kitchen area.
I was getting frustrated and had pulled the brake, looked at the whole chain gear assembly, and the top still did not move. Pried up inside a lot of places to see if there was a movement upwards, no luck. moved it in and out and ground to a halt. Still had not tried using the 16mm socket to “force it out” for fear of shaping something.
I ran the driver’s side front leveling leg down and the passenger side leg up to tilt and hopefully gain some gravity help, got a taller ladder and pulled out a folded over outer gasket on the top middle of the slide, and presto, the slide moves in and out all the way. If I had just installed the relay first, probably would have been working fine.
I THINK that when the PO replaced the carpet with the vinyl flooring, somehow the roller under the peninsula got removed or that is why they replaced the carpeting and vinyl in the first place, who knows, no roller.
I am curious as to where it is supposed to be. I will upload some pics to help others, in case we need to explain to other nubies like me in the future.
ramseyjack
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More pics and the youtube videos showing in and out operation.
After tilting the RV to the driver’s side and letting gravity help, Slide works. But possibly missing roller:
Slide going out, Digs in:
ramseyjack
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I’ve been working too much and just got back to the Carr-Lite and replaced the really dim halogen bulbs with LED’s and took an endoscope to the underneath of the slide.
REALLY a lot of debris, but did find I have an aluminum frame coming out to the end. Was doing multiple things so will attack with a clearer head tomorrow.THANKS!!
Jack
ramseyjack
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The problem was apparent in the second picture I posted last night, but since I did not know the location of the roller I did not put 2=+2 together.
I owe JohnD222 a thousand thanks for all the posts and help he has provided.
below is a link to the floor area in the garbage can area where the roller is attached to the floor, but NOT helping move up the peninsula area (hence digging into the floor and separating the cabinet where it meets in the entertainment area) I was working by myself so I kept going back and checking for floor movement. You can see the floor separate when I start moving the slide around 45sec in and then popping at 52-55sec. Some of the “popping is my opening and closing the kitchen door) It stops at 109 and comparison from 0 sec and 109 is about 1 in. I will cut apart the plywood area and try to figure out a way to mount the roller to the aluminum tube or just reinforce the area under the wood where the roller is. And obviously, find a better way to attach the lower cabinet while using something to run from the sq tubing to the upper part of the cabinet where it meets the Corian.
Thanks!!!
Jack
ramseyjack
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I measured the FWS (Full Wall Slide) from the floor to the wood cabinet bottoms in mm (rear to the stairs), and noted the peninsula is about 10mm lower, which makes sense, for the peninsula roller has broken the wood under the carpet and allowing the cabinets to drag on the floor. The split popped up the roller which then allowed the outer broken piece holding up the most inward cabinet to drop below the square aluminum tubing, creating the issue of tearing up the cabinet.
I then shimmed up the cabinet to both allow space to pull the wood out after cutting it and of course minimizing any further breakage. Cut the carpet back.
I measured 6, 8 and 10 inches in and drew a line at 6in. Unscrewed and removed the screws on the outer edge, then used a circular saw to cut the plywood. If I were to do it again, I would use a sharp Multi-tool. (Dewalt vibrating multitool cut the hard to get at locations like butter and clean cut).
Pulled the broken edge out and after a few minutes on the last screws (some would not come out, just spun) the roller is exposed.
Thought at length and decided that I would use 1/4 20 rivit nuts (rvits a steel thread in the square tubing and allows for bolting without pulling out the threads)
Purchased real (had to get sanded 9/16 birch plywood to get close to the real 1/2 in plywood removed) and bought some thin pieces to shim up for the lack of the carpet between the plywood and cabinet edge.
Roller 100% OK so will keep the geometry the same and re-install in same location with the stronger attachments to keep the plywood from flexing and breaking.
Will post the resolution tomorrow evening hopefully.
I have 10 pictures so this will require 3 posts.
ramseyjack
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second set of pics
ramseyjack
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roller OK
ramseyjack
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Resolution and a working slide not dragging the floor.
I apologize, for I was SURE I took more pics, but when I got home, this was ALL I had.
I got some 1/4 20 rivnuts, 1 in screws and marked the area on the plywood where the 1 1/2 x 1 in alum tubing was. Drilled pilot holes in the wood through the aluminum and then drilled out the aluminum
for the Rivnuts. THIN aluminum, REAL THIN. Did 5 of them to keep the plywood down for any screws I tried without rivnuts, simply pulled out upon removal. Aluminum too thin. It is 1.5in deep and 1 in wide.
I bought new hardwood 3/4 in trim like what was in there originally to replace the split pieces but ended up going and getting 2 x 2 pine lumber (1.5in x 1.5in) and installing it. nothing really square but workable.
I was wrong on the sanded plywood, should have gotten 1 size larger, but was in the project and too hard to start over. I’ll deal with it. should have gotten the 3/4 in (some weird size like 22/32 but I digress)
Rivnuts held and slide goes in and out without pulling on the cabinet.
I discovered that I can pull the base of the cabinet in at the outer part of the peninsula (at the base) where the non-working limit switches are) and it closes up the gap over by the entertainment center.
WAY easier than trying to push on the outside of the cabinet to get the gap to close. I will document that fix sometime in the coming weeks.
Also I have my doubts on the “split in the wood” (see the youtube link below)
JohnD222
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