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Tagged: 37 MSTR Slide
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- 05/05/2023 at 12:08 pm#67302
chefracer15
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Wall slide wont extend. Have 13.4 volts on the batteries and plugged in to shore power. Is this a Schwintek system? I have an RV tech asking me to locate the “controller box ” 13398-B Dual Motor Synchronous Velocity Slide controller. I do not believe that I have one of those…
Does anyone know for sure?
Thank!
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- 05/05/2023 at 2:43 pm #67303
Hokiedad
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I have a 2010 full wall slide. I spent four hours pulling my basement wall panels apart and all it was was the door into the bedroom was not completely latched tight. Slides are 12 volt so if you have full voltage it should work. Check your 12 fuses and make sure it’s not a fuse. Also make sure master switch didn’t get bumped off. If that’s not it and you have a voltmeter I would check the switch controlled by bedroom door for voltage in and out of the switch. I have heard there are some that have a relay switch under the end sink cabinet. Good thing is that the slide out motor is very stout and probably is not the problem. I’d bet on the door switch not being completely closed and latched. Usually something dumb you overlooked. Have you been having issues with slow motor? All of a sudden problem? Good luck! Steve
05/06/2023 at 10:54 am #67304chefracer15
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Steve, Thanks for the reply. I will check the voltage at the door switch. Yes, the slide has moved slowly as long as we have owned it. (4 years). When I press the slide switch above the door i can here the “knock” noise coming from the motor area, so I believe it is getting at least some power.
The closed slide micro switch below the sink is not quite pressed in completely so even when I get that loop open, I still just get the knock noise when pushing in/out switch.
I’m not sure that I am explaining this clearly.
05/06/2023 at 11:41 am #67305Hokiedad
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If you hear the motor trying to go you may have broken the shear pin. You may be able to view the motor from the basement area. Maybe the cold air grille on your steps or the filler piece around sewer pipe? Look and see if the gear on the motor is turning, if it is and the chain isn’t moving it’s probably the shear pin. I would check voltage at the motor while someone pushes the rocker switch before I went to far
05/08/2023 at 7:17 am #67315JohnD222
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Troy,
I suspect that the “knock” that you hear is either the motor relay going “click” like the solenoid on an truck starter when it stops functioning. Given your year, I believe that would be an aftermarket relay like this one:
These do go bad occasionally.
Or it could be that the battery or batteries have only enough juice to budge the motor just a bit to take up the slack in the chain..
Either way, just because you have 13.4 volts does not mean you have enough amps to move that wall. If big foots operator “up,” but not “lift the 5er,” this is your problem and you need a new battery. Pull the battery out and have it load tested. Even on shore power, a bad battery will not accept the charger sufficiently to build up the “cranking amps” that you need to get that big wall moving with or without the relay.
please report back when you figure this out.
JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)05/22/2023 at 5:54 pm #67817expired-member
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We have a 36 MAX-1 bought new ’11. We’ve had our slide issues. There are a lot of slide suggestions if you search regarding the long slide. First my slide will not move in or out if you stop the movement part way either in or out. If you have 12 volts then, you need to be sure the bedroom door is closed as discussed and the limit switch is pushed in behind the door. If you have a second person, you could have the door open a LITTLE and hold the switch in manually and see if it moves. Obviously be careful, do not run the slide into the door. I had to replace this switch once.
Second, if partially moved and won’t go in or out, in my 36 MAX-1, there are two roller plunger limit switches near the trash can to the left of the sink. One each for motion IN & OUT. Person number 2 needs to hold the plunger nearest the cabinet in. The plunger makes a distinct “click”, no “click” try again several times. If it “clicks” hold it in. Hold the “Off-side Door” activation switch on “OUT”. The “IN” plunger is way at the back and hits the edge of the floor to stop the inward motion. A moving slide can be disconcerting, once it starts moving let go of the plunger.
Third, I found out the hard way that the limit switch, if broken, does not “click”. After testing all the wires for 12 volts, I found one wire that was broken. After repairing the wire. The slide still didn’t work. I had another switch and so went into replacement mode. When I took out one of the switches I noticed it was not clicking. ON inspection the case was broken at the end. Once the replacement was installed it has been fine since. BUT a second person had to hold in the correct switch to move the slide. TAKE GOOD pictures of the wiring colors to the switch. Note the location of the nut on the switch relative to the bracket. Also the plunger is turned 1/4 turn to get out and put in. Get EXACTLY the same switch.
Removing the “walls” first under the sink, then the trash shelf, to get to the limit switches isn’t that hard. Remove the cabinet doors. Put the screws into the carpet when you take them out so you can find the holes later. Buy some foam pipe insulation, split it open and push it on the cabinet rail just where you hit your head. I also remember another low hanging wall inside that you need a cushion for. Hope this helps. It is not a Schwintek system. I’d call it a gear and chain drive.
FINAL COMMENT IF : in an EMERGENCY you can move the slide by powering the motor directly from your batteries. I’ve never done this. I UNDERSTAND, the motor wires are disconnected and Power red lead is attached to black (out). The other negative black lead is attached to red (in). if the slide it goes in the wrong direction, the lead wires are switched. I’m no electrician. Check on line for help with this. I wrote to another person with motor/slide problems. It is on this website – DO NOT use the nut on the end of the motor to move the side if the magnet is powered. Break off the nut, it cannot be repaired ($1,500+ labor to move parts). Removing the magnet is easy, replacing it is a nightmare, but I figured it out. ALLsStrictly my experiences I am NOT a professional RV REPAIR PERSON.
05/31/2023 at 6:21 am #68062expired-member
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Recent experience with wall slide: Would not move out. First check was the limit switches. The plunger on the one furthest in, by the trash, against the floor was not “in” as I was able to get it to “click”. I was alone, so I folded up a business card and pushed it between the floor and the plunger till it “clicked” pushed the “out” button and it worked. Paper fell into the space under the floor, so be prepared to lose whatever you use. Two repair options: remove the nut between the switch and the bracket (eliminates ability to make any other depth adjustments), or build up the strike point on the edge of the floor slightly and adjust the depth of the switch in the bracket with the nuts on both sides of the bracket. I noticed over time the plungers wear a grove on the inside of the cabinet and the floor edge. Remember you are changing the interior wall seal point.
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