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I have a 2011 Cameo 31ksls. I have one Deka 12vot (probably group 27 but not sue) battery in place. I think all of us have the same size battery compartment.
I need a little more reserve power for our situation here in FL when the rig is in storage. When I start the refrig the night prior to a trip in the hot FL weather, the refrig and its cooling fans are running for hours. Plus, extending and retracting the slides and then the power required for the Big Foot. We all know that if the minimum power requirements are not met, the Big Foot does not like to work. I had the situation at hook up departing for my last trip. The battery was so low that I had to hook the Cameo umbilical cord to the truck in order to power the Big Foot.
In order to have the most reserve power from the battery(s)for our situation, would I get more reserve power from 1 larger battery, 2 12volt batteries in series, or 2 6volt batteries in parallel? We don’t dry camp we just need to be sure we have the juice for the before mentioned situation. As always, thanks for the help! PhillipPosted: 5:03 PM – Jul 28, 2013If you were doing dry camping going with the 6 volt batteries would be best, but I would think for your use getting another 12 volt one and adding it in parallel would meet your needs.Posted: 5:41 PM – Jul 28, 2013I just thought of something, on our last fiver we had a second battery installed after having our trailer a short time. An I remember the service manager telling me where multiple batteries are connected the battery(s) should be of the same size, age and usage level as the companion. Worked for us because we put the same kind in and did it when the rig was new.Batteries in series give more power and in parallel last longer.
Posted: 9:31 PM – Jul 28, 2013Phillip,I had the exact same issue.
Whatever you do toss the existing battery – it will be the weak link and cause damage to the new battery – just like Traveler says.
Whatever you do, i think you need at least a trickle solar charger – it won’t take much in Florida if the rig is not covered.
I went the 6-volt route because i wanted enough inverter power to run the vacuum and compressor off the 4 batteries. That adds a lot of pin weight, because they can only fit in the forward storage, but are way easier to service because i can see the water levels. If i were to do it over again, i would make the factory battery door bigger, and add a slide out tray sufficient to hold two 12 volt batteries. This is how the Carriage vs Cameo is set up.
Worth repeating, whatever you do, i think you need at least a trickle solar charger – it won’t take much in Florida if the rig is not covered.
Posted: 11:51 PM – Jul 28, 2013Hi Phillip:You and I have the same rig and I have two 6 volt golf cart batteries in the battery compartment. We also have a solar system for battery charging. We spent considerable time today adjusting our kitchen slide, so it was in and out a number of time. We also raised the trailer to grease the suspension zerks, and no issues with lack of sufficient power.
Rick
Posted: 12:51 AM – Jul 29, 2013As stated above, adding in new 12v in parrallelwith an older battery just ruins the new battery. For serious go power 6v Trojan 105’s are hard to beat I have four and have plenty of power. Get a watering system to make maintaining the batteries easy.Posted: 6:44 AM – Jul 29, 2013Thanks for the replies guys. I knew my buds here could give me the best advice! I will definitely replace the old battery and get 2 new ones. I have heard the most positive comments about Trojan battery.
I know the T-105 is widely used in RVs and there is also the option of t-125 and T-145. Both of these are the same physical size but each offering a few more amp hrs. Of course, the 125 and 145 are more expensive.
Besides being the priciest, only other problem with the Trojan availability. The Trojan website shows the closet dealer being over 50 miles from me. Thanks, PhillipPosted: 7:53 AM – Jul 29, 2013You might take a look at the Interstate 6 volt deep cycle batts. also Costco. there 6 volt deep cycle batts are made by Interstate.Lillyputz
Posted: 9:54 AM – Jul 29, 2013Whatever size battery you decide on I would recommend AGM batteries. You will spend more, but they are totally maintenance free and very resistant to vibration.Posted: 11:56 AM – Jul 29, 2013zachlaplante wrote:Whatever size battery you decide on I would recommend AGM batteries. You will spend more, but they are totally maintenance free and very resistant to vibration.Is the AGM battery be considered the Optima Blue Top? If so, I see that they are a Johnson Control product as well. I found the Trojan T-105 in my area for $99 each. Phillip
Posted: 7:43 PM – Jul 29, 2013Phillip:Like Zach, we went with sealed AGM batteries. I had a difficult time checking the fluid level in the lead/acid batteries due to the battery door configuration. We also wanted to install 4 of them, so needed to install 2 in the front compartment. AGM’s off gas very little, but we still vented the battery box.
Posted: 7:50 PM – Jul 29, 2013Traveler wrote:If you were doing dry camping going with the 6 volt batteries would be best, but I would think for your use getting another 12 volt one and adding it in parallel would meet your needs.X2 If you were dry camping then I would advise 2 6V batteries. But since you are’nt then 1 or 2 12V will do.
Posted: 9:01 PM – Jul 29, 2013I read the most positive reviews about the Trojan t-105 batteries. I also found out that they can take more discharge/recharge cycles that their counterparts – the t-125 and 1-145. I can get them for $98 a piece in my area. I think I will go with 2 6v Trojan T-105 batteries. This should offer me more reserve power for my situation at the storage lot.
I wonder how may use mineral oil in their batteries. I have read that 4 ounces per cell in 6v batteries greatly reduces water loss and reduces maintenance greatly. This provided you are not in freezing conditions which my rig is never in. Thanks, PhillipPosted: 9:58 AM – Jul 30, 2013I would contact Trojan and ask their opinion.Posted: 3:17 PM – May 15, 2014OK…..I’m asking another question here about this battery thing……
Once again, my problem is the lack of shore power at the storage lot. I have to turn on the battery and refrigerator the night prior to a trip and it could be up to 24 hours on the battery before we hook-up and leave. Buy that time, the battery is so discharged, the Big Foot won’t retract.
What I need is more battery reserve power and I’m finding that the 2 6volts in series won’t really offer that. Two 12 volts in parallel may increase the reserve power but I have read battery life in that set-up is not very good.
SO…..I have another idea. How about I add another 12v group 27 battery (like I have now). I could then change out the battery cut-off switch to one that has a battery 1, battery 2 and off setting. This would allow me to switch over to the other battery to run the Big Foot jacks. Once hooked-up to shore power I could simply switch between the 2 batteries to fully charge them prior to the trip home and dropping off at the storage lot. I have the Intelli-power monitor pendant that tells me the state the batteries/charge is in which would help in keeping the batteries charged. Thoughts? Thanks, PhillipPosted: 4:37 PM – May 15, 2014jdpm wrote:OK…..I’m asking another question here about this battery thing……
Once again, my problem is the lack of shore power at the storage lot. I have to turn on the battery and refrigerator the night prior to a trip and it could be up to 24 hours on the battery before we hook-up and leave. Buy that time, the battery is so discharged, the Big Foot won’t retract.
What I need is more battery reserve power and I’m finding that the 2 6volts in series won’t really offer that. Two 12 volts in parallel may increase the reserve power but I have read battery life in that set-up is not very good.
SO…..I have another idea. How about I add another 12v group 27 battery (like I have now). I could then change out the battery cut-off switch to one that has a battery 1, battery 2 and off setting. This would allow me to switch over to the other battery to run the Big Foot jacks. Once hooked-up to shore power I could simply switch between the 2 batteries to fully charge them prior to the trip home and dropping off at the storage lot. I have the Intelli-power monitor pendant that tells me the state the batteries/charge is in which would help in keeping the batteries charged. Thoughts? Thanks, PhillipHi Phillip:
If your rig is stored outside, you may want to consider installing a solar panel. With our solar system, I am never concerned about sufficient battery voltage for operating the slides, Bigfoot jacks etc. We have the generator prep package and our dealer removed the start switch for the generator and put the solar controller in its place. I suspect the wiring for the generator would be adequate and located in a good location for the solar system.
I believe your unit comes with led interior lighting. With solar you could dry camp if you wanted and minimal amperage draw with led.Just a thought
Rick
Posted: 6:57 PM – May 15, 2014When I am not connected to power, and the fridge is on, my rig pulls about 9-10 amps @ 12v. This includes the fridge, CO and smoke detectors, water heater circuit board, thermostats, etc. Even with my four 6v batteries, 24 hours would drain them 100%.It will shorten the life of your batteries significantly if you let them drain below 50% of their capacity. Even if you kept a spare battery for the jacks, you are still draining the other battery(s) well below 50%.
When I kept my previous rigs in storage, solar was the only way to go. A single 130 watt panel maxes out at 7 amps, so it still can’t keep up with the background 9-10 amp draw of the equipment, but it will certainly slow down the battery drain. You really need two panels and plenty of sunshine to keep ahead of the game. A side benefit is while the rig is in storage, and everything is shut off, your batteries stay at 100% charge indefinitely.
You could start pulling fuses, so that only the fridge was on when the batteries were on. The fridge pulls about 4-5 amps. so four 6v batteries would allow you 24 hours of power and drop the batteries about 50%. They should still be able to retract the jacks after that, perhaps slowly.
I have four 140 watt panels on my Carri, so I am biased towards the solar option.
Posted: 7:44 PM – May 15, 2014I have six 6 volt deep cycle batts with five 140 watt solar panels, 2000 watt inverter with control system. no problems here.Lillyputz
Posted: 7:45 PM – May 15, 2014I appreciate the input on solar but I’m thinking that is not an option for me due to expense and the all the hassle in wiring it. I don’t want to cut any hoes in the roof and I’m clueless about solar. I tried a small battery minder on a camper years ago with no luck. I never dry camp so the solar would be strictly for storage.
For some reason, the battery disconnect does not seem to totally cut the draw from the battery. I found out that with the Cameo there was a slight draw on the battery unless I pulled the fuse to the Big Foot panel….even with the panel off and the battery turned off. I have yet to find the Big Foot fuse.
I have the 12 cu.ft. refrig which I imagine is using more power and it also has 2 cooling fans for the flue. They run a lot in the FL temperatures. PhillipPosted: 7:50 PM – May 15, 2014lillyputz wrote:I have six 6 volt deep cycle batts with five 140 watt solar panels, 2000 watt inverter with control system. no problems here.Lillyputz
LOL…I guess not!
I ran the wiring (after the Lifestyle ran the wiring wrong on the build) and installed the complete system my self. Ran the wiring down along the roof vent pipe to the front compartment. Installed the inverter and battery charger controls just below the breaker panel. charger controller, breaker box and batts are in the front compartment above the generator. 2000 watt inverter is installed where the factory batt was. Still have not been reimbursed by lifestyle for rewiring.Lillyputz
Posted: 6:34 AM – May 16, 2014Phillip, solar is the answer long term, and a lot cheaper than it was 1, 3 and 5 years ago. However, your idea of a separate battery for Bigfoot, with isolation switch is a quick fix and should work much better than what you have. I would plan for the future and buy 2 more 6 volt ones like you have, or just plan on tossing the 12 volt one when you do solar. Different battery types, age, condition etc don’t work well together, but ok in isolation environment. You need to vent them as the electronics in your charger converter and also inverter are greatly compromised by the sulphur off gassing.Remember that the charge wire from your truck to 5er plug and 5er plug to 5er battery is pretty small. If you don’t stay connected to shore power for big foot retraction the charge from truck will not replace the draw down unless driving for hours. It might be best to “isolate” your new Bigfoot battery before you hitch back up to leave campsite that way it is at full charge. Hopefully the drive home tops off your main battery. What you do to unhitch at storage with isolated battery is a crap shoot, but definitely keep your truck running, preferably at high idle, until Bigfoot action is complete. Crap shoot is in one case you keep one isolated and this leaves main battery more discharged and reduces refrigerator time, or use all batteries and Bigfoot battery is left at less than full charge.
Big foot has circuit breaker, not fuse, on main battery leads, a small pullout fuse for the controller – mine is near the sensor in forward storage that senses level.
Any chance that your factory new batteries are already shot from being drained down, or crap from Walmart? The Walmart/costco/sams club versions of Interstate batteries have a lot less lead in them, and pack a lot fewer amps than others (ok if you have 4-6 of them or are knowledgeably weight concious). The amp draws cited above are true. Maybe run the frig for just a few hours before departure. You could invest in a small generator that you can plug your 5ers 90-125 amp smart charger into for a few minutes during frig loading and your return to pick up camper, but you can buy a lot of batteries and solar for that $.
This month an extra battery pack and isolation switch so you can enjoy the summer; later after you read up on solar do’s and don’ts, solar.
Posted: 6:51 PM – Jun 22, 2014Just wanted to update this post to let everyone know that I got two Interstate 6 volt golf cart batteries to replace my original group 27 12 volt. I’ve done the right thing! My power supply issues while in storage are over. The batteries are strong and have plenty of reserve power to operate the Big Foot, run the slides in/out several times, etc. I alos installed a battery watering system for ease of care. Thanks to all for you suggestions! From my experience and for the goal I was trying to accomplish, the 2 6 volt batteries are the way to go! Thanks, PhillipPosted: 8:34 PM – Jun 22, 2014Philip,Were these the Walmart/costco 100 amp jobs or the real interstate 150 amp ones?
Posted: 8:59 PM – Jun 22, 2014JohnD222 wrote:Philip,Were these the Walmart/costco 100 amp jobs or the real interstate 150 amp ones?
I believe the real Interstate batteries…..It says 208ah at 20hrs. They weight 63 lbs each just like those on the Interstate website. Cost was $85 each. The Trojan T-105 was considerable more and no place convenient to get them. I’m just glad my reserve battery power situation is solved. Hopefully with proper care they will last a while. Since we have the 3 stage charger and I have the pendant that tells what mode the charger is in, I can know when to “water’ them. Phillip
This is a link to the Interstate website showing the specs for the 6 volt golf cart battery sold at Costco.
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/p/go … 2147384903Posted: 8:55 PM – Jun 23, 2014232 amps at 85 lbs each. I have six of them.Lillyputz
Posted: 12:40 PM – Jun 30, 2014jdpm wrote:zachlaplante wrote:Whatever size battery you decide on I would recommend AGM batteries. You will spend more, but they are totally maintenance free and very resistant to vibration.Is the AGM battery be considered the Optima Blue Top? If so, I see that they are a Johnson Control product as well. I found the Trojan T-105 in my area for $99 each. Phillip
Be careful if you have one of the top of the line three stage or four stage battery chargers that equalize. It will destroy the batteries.
Sheff
Posted: 8:09 PM – Jun 30, 2014sheff69 wrote:Be careful if you have one of the top of the line three stage or four stage battery chargers that equalize. It will destroy the batteries.Sheff
Sheff:
I have 4 6 volt AGM batteries and have a Magnum 2812 pure sine inverter, and charger (120 amps, i believe). Magnum knows I have installed AGM’s and there is a setting for them. i recall the Magnum 2812 was about $1600 The charger function is either 4 or 5 stages.
I have a Go Power solar controller, which also has a setting for AGM’s. I trust that the controller will not go into equalize mode, due to the AGM setting. The distributor for Go Power also sells Magnum and are aware of my AGM upgrade.
I hope i don’t prematurely shorten battery life, otherwise I will have to go back to work to afford 4 more
Rick
Posted: 10:44 PM – Jun 30, 2014rwb_wl wrote:sheff69 wrote:Be careful if you have one of the top of the line three stage or four stage battery chargers that equalize. It will destroy the batteries.Sheff
Sheff:
I have 4 6 volt AGM batteries and have a Magnum 2812 pure sine inverter, and charger (120 amps, i believe). Magnum knows I have installed AGM’s and there is a setting for them. i recall the Magnum 2812 was about $1600 The charger function is either 4 or 5 stages.
I have a Go Power solar controller, which also has a setting for AGM’s. I trust that the controller will not go into equalize mode, due to the AGM setting. The distributor for Go Power also sells Magnum and are aware of my AGM upgrade.
I hope i don’t prematurely shorten battery life, otherwise I will have to go back to work to afford 4 more
Rick
If you have the setting for the AGM’s I believe it does turn off the equalize charge, but most don’t, the cheaper ones that is.
Not all are that sophisticated! I wish mine was.
Sheff
Posted: 7:12 AM – Jul 01, 2014Sheff,By ruin, do you mean cook and cause the water to evaporate frequently?
Posted: 10:36 PM – Jul 01, 2014JohnD222 wrote:Sheff,By ruin, do you mean cook and cause the water to evaporate frequently?
What I read is.
The equalization portion of the cycle raises the voltage to 14.5 and holds it for a time, about 15 minutes (in my case). That boils the electrolyte and stirs it up causing the sulphation on the plates to revert back to sulphuric acid and I think generating hydrogen and oxygen in gas form (boy is that taking my memory cells on a trip).
I think when it does that it in an AGM battery where the electrolyte is held within the fiberglass mat, it destroys the gel/mat in the battery.If anyone out there has a more accurate description, feel free to correct me.
Sheff
Posted: 12:03 AM – Jul 02, 2014SheffI read that with AGM’s,although sealed, can off-gas if exposed to excessive battery charge. As 2 of my AGM’s are in the front compartment, I put them in a poly box and vented outside the rv. I have had them for about 2 years now, and no issues so far.
Rick
Posted: 7:50 AM – Jul 02, 2014Sheff,Well told, what a memory!
My solar Morningstar controller had several EQ settings for water flooded batteries ranging from one to three hours, or you can customize set for how much time, how high if voltage, and how frequently. (I use 1 hour every 28 days and 14.5 volts). Also a setting for AGM which has essentially zero EQ time.
I have flooded cell batteries that seem to now dry out every 6 weeks versus 3 months when new.
I have talked with Morningstar about how that EQ process/timing is coordinated with a 4 stage smart charger. They say this should not be a problem, but I suspect that it is.
I too have the external charge status indicator for my smart charger but I find this of zero help. What I need to do us turn off its EQ activity, but cannot.
When at campground for extended periods I disconnect my smart charge and run on solar only. This seems to help.
Posted: 7:36 AM – Jul 05, 2014New Member here, Just purchased our 2009 36XTRM5 this week. I will be transferring four 6v Trojans and a 2812 MagnaSine to our new rig. The battery tray seems to hold two batteries easily. I was hoping to get as few ideas of where to install the other two batteries and the Inverter/Charger. Between four batteries and the Inverter, that seems to be a lot of weight to have on one side of the trailer? Any help or pictures would be appreciated..Posted: 12:15 PM – Jul 05, 2014Welcome Jimmyb! I am sure you will find answers to many questions regarding your new rig.We have 4, 6 volt AGM’s in our Cameo, plus a model 2812, Magnum pure sine inverter. We have a kitchen long slide on the door side, so the batteries and Magnum help to offset the weight. Our pin is about 3,000 lbs.
The photo was taken while installation was underway – I have vented the green/white hose to the outside of our rig, should battery off-gassing ever occur (should not with sealed AGM batteries).
Rick
Posted: 8:46 AM – Jul 07, 2014rwb_wl wrote:Welcome Jimmyb! I am sure you will find answers to many questions regarding your new rig.
We have 4, 6 volt AGM’s in our Cameo, plus a model 2812, Magnum pure sine inverter. We have a kitchen long slide on the door side, so the batteries and Magnum help to offset the weight. Our pin is about 3,000 lbs.
The photo was taken while installation was underway – I have vented the green/white hose to the outside of our rig, should battery off-gassing ever occur (should not with sealed AGM batteries).
RickHey
Rick
What all did you have to do to attache inverter to back wall. Since the water tanks is behind well at least on mine!
Type of screws and such. All knowledge is appreciated. I’M putting a Xantrex Pro inverter in mine for residential frig and did install 2 6volts.Thanks for your help.
Just DonPosted: 9:10 AM – Jul 07, 2014Hello Just DonAs pat of the deal when we bought the fiver in September 2011, was the installation of the inverter, so the dealer did the install. I believe the plywood is about 1/2″, however, above the water tank, ability for bolts. I will check for bolts next time I am down at the fiver.
Rick
Posted: 2:34 PM – Jul 13, 2014rwb_wl wrote:Hello Just DonAs pat of the deal when we bought the fiver in September 2011, was the installation of the inverter, so the dealer did the install. I believe the plywood is about 1/2″, however, above the water tank, ability for bolts. I will check for bolts next time I am down at the fiver.
Rick
Thanks Rick
Want hang mine about where your is and didn’t want to hit the water tank.
Thanks for your help.Posted: 4:00 PM – Jul 13, 2014Since my inverter is meant to be mounted horizontally, I had no problems with the tank by mounting it high on the wall. I’m still 3″ above the top of the tank the way it’s mounted. As long as you can get at least a couple (the more the better) above the tank it should probably hold it. If you have to put screws longer than 3/8″ in below the water tank top, maybe you could use Liquid Nail to glue a thickness of wood between the wall and inverter sufficient to get longer screws in. If you have felt material on the wall you would have to remove it first. Use longer screws to go all the way through the wall above the tank and shorter ones below.I used shorter screws to mount the battery switch and charge controller, 3/8″ if I remember correctly. I used whatever size the manufacturer used to mount the OEM inverter. They aren’t heavy items and as long as I good bite into the plywood that was good enough to hold them.
I bought the battery box at Home Depot and have 4 Interstate U2200s inside.
Image no longer available. Deleted by ImageShack – Please Repost Image if possible with new methodPosted: 4:15 PM – Jul 13, 2014Sue and Jim:Great install. Looks like you have the breaker box for AC inverter output also on the front wall. The dealer relocated our transfer switch to behind the wall in the centre compartment below where the sewer hose goes, and installed the breaker panel in the same area – a bit tough if the circuit breaker has to be reset.
Our Magnum inverter/charger weights 55 lbs and is still tight against the front compartment wall after 2 years, and many rough roads. I am going to check to see how it was mounted.
Rick
Rumager wrote:rwb_wl wrote:Hello Just DonAs pat of the deal when we bought the fiver in September 2011, was the installation of the inverter, so the dealer did the install. I believe the plywood is about 1/2″, however, above the water tank, ability for bolts. I will check for bolts next time I am down at the fiver.
Rick
Thanks Rick
Want hang mine about where your is and didn’t want to hit the water tank.
Thanks for your help.++++++++++
Hello Just DonI have attached a photo of the inverter install – a number of short screws with none of them coming through the plywood bulkhead. I noticed that the black loom covered wire above the red terminal passes through the bulkhead, above the water tank, so bolts could have been used rather than screws at that location.
Posted: 7:10 AM – Jul 14, 2014I used a 6 inch hole saw to cut an access hole above the tank. This is on the forward wall of the main storage unit. It allowed me to use bolts, locknuts and washers on each attach point. Also room with a view to help install a water pressure regulator and a larger water pump.When done, you can use an 8 inch long piece of 1×3, fish it through the 6 inch hole, attach it with small screws on either side of the 6 inch hole, put the 6 inch plug drilled out back into the opening, and drill a single screw through the plug into the 2×3, and insert a screw. With dark screws and black felt you can hardly see it was a hole. Or, you can just leave it as an access hole.
The bottom of my 6 inch hole is only an inch above the tank. This allows a better viewing angle. I did use the sliding access door to attach a few of the bolts/nuts, and to judge where to drill the 6 inch hole, both height wise and left right (no need for access where the sliding door already provides it).
By the way, the water tank really expands/bulges when the tank is full versus empty, so if you use wood screws in the area of that tank, no screw head point should penetrate beyond the plywood/metal thickness on either side. If screws are too long, most good sized wide biting ones are, get them started in the wood, then cut off the pointed tip at the correct length.
Be sure to vent acid flooded batteries to the outside if you mount your inverter in the same area; it’s electronics don’t get along with the acid fumes. Some folks used the oem battery cabinet for the inverter, but I found it too cramped.
Sure wish we could mount the batteries and the weight mid ship, and still be able to easily access them, and the heavy cables for maintenance.
Posted: 6:05 AM – Jul 15, 2014Runtrails wrote:Since my inverter is meant to be mounted horizontally, I had no problems with the tank by mounting it high on the wall. I’m still 3″ above the top of the tank the way it’s mounted. As long as you can get at least a couple (the more the better) above the tank it should probably hold it. If you have to put screws longer than 3/8″ in below the water tank top, maybe you could use Liquid Nail to glue a thickness of wood between the wall and inverter sufficient to get longer screws in. If you have felt material on the wall you would have to remove it first. Use longer screws to go all the way through the wall above the tank and shorter ones below.I used shorter screws to mount the battery switch and charge controller, 3/8″ if I remember correctly. I used whatever size the manufacturer used to mount the OEM inverter. They aren’t heavy items and as long as I good bite into the plywood that was good enough to hold them.
I bought the battery box at Home Depot and have 4 Interstate U2200s inside.
Thanks for the reply
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