Black water tank leaking (From TapaTalk Forum)

Black water tank leaking

https://carriage-lifestyle-owners.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=3355

Posted: 6:21 PM – Dec 26, 2016

Winkeler

I have a 2008 Cameo F35SB3. Today I connected a hose to the black tank flush and opened the gate. The system was draining but then the wife started to yell that the dog started throwing up, detour to the dog issue.
By the time I got back to the sewer I had water running out of the bottom of the belly pan. The toilet filled but stopped before over flowing. I turned off the water to the flush system and after a few minutes the toilet drained. A almost clear water dripped out from the belly pan for an hour. There is no water in the storage area.
So, cracked tank or a fitting popped under the pressure.
I spent the next few hours at the Vet with the dog and started to drop the belly pan before running out of light. I have about half of the screws out. I figure I need to at least drop the pan if only to remove the insulation.

MY QUESTION. Does anyone know if I can access everything on the black water tank from the bottom after removing the bell pan? Is there any reason to maybe remove the rear partition wall in the storage area to reach the top of the tank. During dinner I started questioning my approach.

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Posted: 6:26 PM – Dec 26, 2016

Winkeler

Sorry to all, I don’t know how I managed to post the same message 4 times. It has been one of those days.

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Posted: 9:13 PM – Dec 26, 2016

gjhunter01

I had a leaky gray water tank a month ago, so might have some in site for you. I removed the garage panel which exposed the 3 down spouts that attached to the gray tank nipples. I also removed the belly pan, insulation and 2 tank straps which lowered the tank about 2″. I blocked the tank up and refilled it and could see water running past one of the tank inlets which told me the leak was not at the nipple. I ended up guessing where the leak was and used a sawzall to cut away the basement floor and discovered a factory overextended screw had protruded a hole through the top of the tank. To reinstall the belly pan, use a sharp drift to alien the first dozen screws (I used a 12V tester)
Greg

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Posted: 8:01 AM – Dec 27, 2016

Winkeler

Thanks. I used the search engine and found your comment yesterday but this reply added more detail. I am going to drop the belly pan now and play it one step at a time. We have a Mobile RV Repair guy living here at the RV Park in the Florida Keys. When I get over my head I will call him. I didn’t see any reason to pay him for the first couple of steps. I’ll use him as needed. I informed the Park’s manage from the first drip and they are helpful.

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Posted: 11:51 AM – Dec 30, 2016

Winkeler

Used Leak-seal and fiberglass cloth to repair 3 inch crack in black water tank. The local “mobile RV repair guy” told me he has been using it for years, less messy that epoxy. Just spray and dry. I added the fiberglass cloth idea for a little strength. I used six coats of Rust-oleum Leak-seal from Home Depot and two layers of the cloth between the 2nd/3rd and the 4th/5th spraying.
I believe the crack was going to happen sooner or later because the factory didn’t install the bottom support straps correctly but I accelerated the tanks death by leaving the flush system on un-watched.
There are cross members supporting the top of the tank. The two metal straps, anchor at the leading/front edge of the black water tank, hung loose, 2 inches of air past the rest of the black water tank and 80% of the grey water tank and then made contact again for the last couple of inches before the rear anchor point.
I added a metal strap to pull up the center points between the two tanks and added cushion material between the metal straps and fiberglass tanks.
Some speculate that the loose strap was intentional to allow the tank to flex from empty to full, I don’t see that point. Anyway my tanks are repaired and properly supported. Another craftsmanship problem from the death spiral of the Carriage factory.

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Posted: 5:35 PM – Dec 30, 2016

rwb_wl

Winkeler: A couple of years ago, we were at an RV park, when during the night, the grey water tank dropped to the ground on a Montana. The straps had let go, and the manufacturer only fastened them to the body of the RV with lag type bolts. The owner had the tank re-installed and used bolts and nylocks to improve on how the tank was held in place. I have not removed the black tank cover from our Cameo, and sometimes travel with tanks 2/3 full and often wondered how Carriage held the tanks in place and whether the straps system is adequate. Any comments or insight?

Thanks,
Rick

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Posted: 7:28 PM – Dec 30, 2016

Winkeler

It took almost ten years for my tank to fail and it might have lasted longer if I had not pressurized the black water tank to some degree. Tightening the bottom straps to support the bottom of the tank must be a good idea. Saying that because of the propane gas piping, dropping the belly pan is not simple. You can inspect the bottom strap closest to the gate valves by removing the 2 x 2 foot panel. If that strap is flopping in the wind in the center, you can expect the other strap is also.
Another modification that I did years ago was cut that 2 x 2 access panel so it can be removed completely. It makes replacing the gate values a lot easier. Just cut a rectangle out of it using the three holes and straight up from the small holes. I cut up one of those blue plastic electrical boxes, about 99 cents at Home Depot, epoxy four blue plastic squares to the rectangle making tabs that you can use number 8 by 1/2 inch screws to hold in place.
I have mind sitting in the storage area and can send a email photo of it. I don’t know how to post a photo to this site. I am leaving the belly pan down for a week or two to make sure the leak is fixed.

B.W.Gentry
Owner/Admin
2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
Breckenridge, TX

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