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CLOC-Admin.
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CLOC-AdminPosted: 11:42 AM – Sep 16, 2018I haven’t been in the unit for a couple of weeks, but decided to check on the refrigerator. It was off and completely without power. There were also several other lights that didn’t work. I began to check a few things (surge protector was showing good power) and found two 20 amp fuses were blown so thought I found my problem. WRONG, when I went to replace the fuse it immediately sparked and blew.I am not great with electrical things, but this seems like a dead short someplace. Seems odd that it is happening on two different circuits. If anyone can offer and idea why this might be happening if would be appreciated.
Madhatter (Ron)
Posted: 12:16 PM – Sep 16, 2018Ron,Normally a immediate pop means a dead short. Pinched wire, wire that worked loose and crossed. It could be a pinched bunch of wires within the hinge under the slide out, but that would normally require you to move the slide at East one direction between things working and not working.
When you say fuses, I presume that you are referring to the 12 volt fuses, not the 110 circuit breakers.
I think you have a 110 volt refrigerator that runs off your batteries and the inverter. The battery to inverter connection has a monster fuse, but the inverter should feed into a circuit breaker.
Not at all sure what kind of transfer switch you have to switch from from battery/inverter 110 to shore 110, but that could cause your fridge to be dead. It does not explain blown 12 volt fuses.
I rattled off a lot of ideas, but not sure how many, if any are relevant. Maybe you can report back with some more specific info, particularly what the blown fuses are labeled to be supplying power to, and if the fuses blow only when not on shore power, only when on shore power, or both.
John
Posted: 12:44 PM – Sep 16, 2018Sounds like a dead short. It will take some work to track it down. Where do you store your rig? Possibly a mouse or squirrel chewed the wires somewhere or a pinched wire shorting out where you might have worked recently. Shorts can be a bugger to track down. I would suspect a rodent if all was working fine before. Good luck and keep us posted.Chip
Posted: 2:15 PM – Sep 16, 2018I had a short on my GFI 110v circuit. It took a long time to figure it out, if I ever did? I had installed a 110 line next to my toilet for a night night, attach into the GFI line. I then installed a 110v box and led light, the kind that is light sensitive. I think that was the problem? I replaced it with a regular duplex outlet and no more problem. Power was always good at the progressive industries system. I installed a plug in night light.Posted: 4:30 PM – Sep 16, 2018JohnD222 wrote:Ron,Normally a immediate pop means a dead short. Pinched wire, wire that worked loose and crossed. It could be a pinched bunch of wires within the hinge under the slide out, but that would normally require you to move the slide at East one direction between things working and not working.
When you say fuses, I presume that you are referring to the 12 volt fuses, not the 110 circuit breakers.
I think you have a 110 volt refrigerator that runs off your batteries and the inverter. The battery to inverter connection has a monster fuse, but the inverter should feed into a circuit breaker.
Not at all sure what kind of transfer switch you have to switch from from battery/inverter 110 to shore 110, but that could cause your fridge to be dead. It does not explain blown 12 volt fuses.
I rattled off a lot of ideas, but not sure how many, if any are relevant. Maybe you can report back with some more specific info, particularly what the blown fuses are labeled to be supplying power to, and if the fuses blow only when not on shore power, only when on shore power, or both.
Jo
Yes I did mean 12v fuses in my fuse block. Looks like I lost use of some lights and don’t know what else. 20 amp seems a little high for a couple of LED lights. I don’t know what the codes mean. No. 4 fuse says : rear wall/comp/DS S/O lights. No. 6 fuse says : Hall/Stool RM lights (and yes the bath lights don’t work).
Yes I do have a residential Samsung refrigerator that has given me other problems.
Will try to do some more searching on the transfer switch. Like I said I am not an electrician.
Now my inverter doesn’t seem to be functioning correctly. It is showing an odd error code that isn’t described in the booklet (r1.5) I don’t have any idea what that means. The inverter is a 2000W (IC122055) I believe. I plan to call the company tomorrow to see if they can offer some clues.
Ron
Posted: 6:52 PM – Sep 16, 2018Ron,No. 4 fuse says : rear wall/comp/DS S/O lights. Probably means what it says in Greek – rear wall (and associated under Cabinet lights), Computer area (and maybe Antennae amplifier if located in that area), Drivers Side Slide Out lights. This tells me look for a pinched wire in the slide out hinge on the drivers side. However, if you do not know what you are doing do not screw with it; pay someone and “watch and learn” If possible.
No. 6 fuse says : Hall/Stool RM lights (and yes the bath lights don’t work). looking at your model floorplan (thanks BW for including them on the forum site), it looks like neither the hallway (steps leading to bedroom) not bathroom would have wires in a slide hinge, but you never really know. However, hallway might refer to the area in between the frig and center island which wires might be pinched within the hinge of the slide. Do 12 volt lights over the counter and center island work? if they do not work over the counters that are in the slide, look at the hinge.
That “hinge” is found outside under the slide. there is both 110 volt and 12 volt wiring, neither should be treated lightly when plugged in or the battery connected.
back in the day, a lot of 3 amp light bulbs added up to 20 amps, and wire was gauged accordingly. my guess is they never changed the wire size, which is a good thing because it is has much thicker insulation and much more tolerant of bending/flexing without breaking all of the innerds. the fuse makes sure the wire will not melt in the event that all of the old bulbs shorted simultaneously. much like what a dead short is doing, the fuse blowing makes sure the wire will not melt. a 10 amp fuse pops just like a 20 amp fuse. but if wiring is gauged for 10 amps and you swap the oem 10 amp fuse with a 20 amp fuse, the wire can melt in some place other than the original problem area well before the fuse pops, creating a nightmare.
Posted: 10:11 PM – Sep 16, 2018The wires for the bathroom maybe on the circuit for the lights in the front slide. Not sure about your model but in ours the wires can be found by lifting the plywood panels under bed.Posted: 2:47 PM – Oct 18, 2018I just wanted to let everyone know what happened with this issue.I took my trailer to the dealership to work on the issue of blown fuses/wiring problems an another issue with the inverter/charger. When I picked up the trailer today I talked to the tech that did the work on the wiring issue. He told me that he found a shorted out LED light in the dining area that caused the 20 amp fuse on that circuit to blow. I asked him why would that have any effect on the hallway light circuit and he said it is possible when the dining circuit failed that the hall circuit might have seen a surge (possible on the ground side) that took that circuit out. In any event he replaced the LED bulb (they need to be installed properly due to polarity) replaced both blown 20 amp fuses and now everything works.
madhatter
B.W.Gentry
Owner/Admin
2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
Breckenridge, TX
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