Cameo F37FB3 shower drain repair access

LANDING PAGE Forums COMMON RV COMPONENTS & ISSUES FRESH-WATER SYSTEM Cameo F37FB3 shower drain repair access

  • Creator
    Topic
  • #43959
    CLOC-AdminCLOC-Admin
    Keymaster

        I need to re-seal and/or replace the shower drain in our 2010 Cameo, wherein the shower is located over the front overhang.   There is no access to the area under the shower pan, thus I cannot get to the drain nut or anything else under the shower.  Strange set-up from the manufacturer and quite a predicament to be in.

        I was planning to remove the entire painted aluminum panel that is screwed and caulked to the bottom of the overhang between the hitch and the generator compartment.  This would expose the area below the shower, but appears to be a big job.  B.W. offered me a better suggestion of cutting an access hole and then covering it with a larger piece of aluminum with a seal and screws.  I like this option for future serviceability.

        Do any of you have any experience with this or have any suggestions?

        Many thanks!

        Ken

        B.W.Gentry
        Owner/Admin
        2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
        Breckenridge, TX

      Viewing 3 replies - 1 through 3 (of 3 total)
      • Author
        Replies
      • #43965
        JohnD222JohnD222
        Participant
          • Topics - 8
          • Replies - 518
          • Total - 526

          Ken,

           

          I have removed my entire under nose sheet metal in several ocassions in order to 8nspect then reinforce the main frame structure.  All of the trim for the outer walls and part of the lower front cap were involved.  Yes a big job, but manageable.

           

          For a leak or access to drain pipes (I do not have in my model) an access portal would be just as good and a LOT easier/faster.  I would suggest a larger access panel than you think might be necessary because if a leak is involved lots of insulation will need to be pulled out and replaced.  That said, a small hole can easily be enlarged.  You will want to avoid cutting or nicking  the steel frame material even if it is directly below the drain.  Pushing up on tgecsheetmetal skin should give you an idea of safe areas for the first cuts/hole.  Reach up inside to fel for structural members, then enlarge the hole.   After everything is repaired, Dicor or silicone the perimeter and slap on the replacement access panel using self tapping screws, again avoiding the structural steel.

          One comment – it may be your glass shower enclosure matchup to the plastic base that is leaking, not the drain.

          Good luck.

          JohnD222
          Based in Florida except summer
          2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

          #43966
          CLOC-AdminCLOC-Admin
          Keymaster
          Keymaster

              JohnD222,

              Thanks much for your suggestions and encouragement.  Very helpful advice and I now have far less trepidation.  I will be grateful if you will entertain some other questions.

              I noticed the black plastic drain basin was sealed against the top side of the shower pan with silicone instead of the typical plumbers putty and I was planning on using plumbers putty.  Thoughts on this?  Additionally, I tried to remove this threaded piece (using an open end wrench lodged between the cross pieces in the basin and a bar through the closed end of the wrench as a turn-handle), thinking there was a threaded elbow below the shower pan instead of a nut.  Well, it just turns and turns, in either direction, even after rigging up a wire to the basin cross piece and pulling up hard on the wire while turning the threaded drain basin (wife is a good helper).  So, I’m thinking that the pipe elbow threads are stripped or cracked, or that there is a nut under there which is now loose.  Either way, I now have no choice but to get under there now.

              I had wondered about the glass shower enclosure matchup to the plastic base, but I thought, why would they have manufactured this with any holes under the door track to potentially leak, the plastic base must be a monolithic structure there with the enclosure fitted into a groove.  It now appears this was likely wishful thinking.  Have you removed this structure and do you have any advice?  It appears that I need to remove the screws from the vertical metal channel on each side where it attached to the shower walls, and remove the silicone.

              Thanks again.

              Ken

              B.W.Gentry
              Owner/Admin
              2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
              Breckenridge, TX

              #43968
              JohnD222JohnD222
              Participant
                • Topics - 8
                • Replies - 518
                • Total - 526

                Response embedded witin your questions:

                 

                JohnD222, Thanks much for your suggestions and encouragement. Very helpful advice and I now have far less trepidation. I will be grateful if you will entertain some other questions.

                 

                I noticed the black plastic drain basin was sealed against the top side of the shower pan with silicone instead of the typical plumbers putty and I was planning on using plumbers putty. Thoughts on this?

                Yes, plumbers putty.

                 

                Additionally, I tried to remove this threaded piece (using an open end wrench lodged between the cross pieces in the basin and a bar through the closed end of the wrench as a turn-handle), thinking there was a threaded elbow below the shower pan instead of a nut. Well, it just turns and turns, in either direction, even after rigging up a wire to the basin cross piece and pulling up hard on the wire while turning the threaded drain basin (wife is a good helper). So, I’m thinking that the pipe elbow threads are stripped or cracked, or that there is a nut under there which is now loose. Either way, I now have no choice but to get under there now.

                Agreed.  That should not behave that way and may be the source of your leak.

                I had wondered about the glass shower enclosure matchup to the plastic base, but I thought, why would they have manufactured this with any holes under the door track to potentially leak, the plastic base must be a monolithic structure there with the enclosure fitted into a groove. It now appears this was likely wishful thinking. Have you removed this structure and do you have any advice? It appears that I need to remove the screws from the vertical metal channel on each side where it attached to the shower walls, and remove the silicone.

                I never had to remove the framework, but the seal between the glass and the frame, and seal between the frame and the fiberglass shower enclosure both needed a good coat of clear silicone.  It should not have been needed but was within a few years.   Been good for 8 years since.  I would try that before tearing out the framework.  Also, the rubber sweep at the bottom of the swing out shower door is the same size and material as that on the top of the door.   Top is not really needed.  After year 6, I just swapped the top for the bottom.  I suspect that the top can be used as the bottom again in a few years.

                In my unit I can see the bottom of the shower drain from below behind the rear black wall in the main storage area.  It was clear that escaping water was not coming from the drain but from the outside of the shower enclosure.  Getting access from below should greatly assist your efforts to identify the source and the fix to your leakage issues.  Good luck.  JohnD

                Thanks again. Ken

                JohnD222
                Based in Florida except summer
                2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

              Viewing 3 replies - 1 through 3 (of 3 total)
              • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.