Coleman Mach 15

I have two Coleman air conditioners in my 2015 Lifestyle, the one in the back is a heat pump Mach 15 , they both have no controls in the ceiling , is there any info on how to check the roof seals and where the the filters are, and what things to look for on these units , all the other units I’ve had had the controls on the ceiling under the units , thanks .

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[JohnD222Participant Topics - 8Replies - 520Total - 528]

Van,

The 2015 should have a ducted return as well as ducted output.

 

With no ceilings grill you can no longer “dump” air to speed up local cooling.

Each unit will have a thermostat.  Controls fan speed and temp. Main unit controls furnace; also the heat pump if so equipped. If outside air is 4( or so furnace only. If inside temp is greater than 5 degrees below set temp for more than 5 minutes furnace take over.  No need for anything in the ceiling.

Fire each “room” there are two rectangular grills  in the ceiling about 4-inches by 10-inches.  they are at the extreme outside of the ceiling – hidden when slides are in. Open them and pull out thin washable filter.  I say each room but not sure if there is a single return duct system connecting the 4 total return air filters, or if there are separate return duct systems having 2 filters each.

 

Hope that helps.

Any chance you can climb on the roof and measure where your ac i it is in relation to the sides of the 5er and the trim holding the front fiberglass cap on?

JohnD

 

JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

[van islanderParticipantParticipant Topics - 44Replies - 78Total - 122]

Hey John, I’m away for a couple of weeks and when I get back I’ll get on the roof and take those measurements , cheers

[JohnD222Participant Topics - 8Replies - 520Total - 528]

Many thanks in advance.  I am stuck without that info.  PartTimeWages has his rig in the shop and hopes to be able to provide the measurements, so stay tuned…

I forgot to mention above that the top down mounts screw in from the top through a metal mounting plate into the roof a bit further apart front/rear from the 14×14 inch opening.  I do not believe those screws go into the wood framing of the 14×14 box opening.  The top of those 4 screws can be seen by removing the cover on the roof, but they are covered in decor.  I have only heard of one Lifestyle (ages ago) that had a leak and they found the factory had not tightened the screws properly.  Those screws are self- tapping with a drill head, so I do not think that the metal is very thick.

the old setup called for 40-45 inch-pounds of torque, but they were bolts into 3/8 inch nuts.  Recommended torque for the top down mount is “do not overtighten,” whatever that is.

I do not think it would be smart to remove that dicor caulk and retighten at this point.  If you want to verify tightness, I  would be buy a new quality seal (not Camco), and plan on replacing it.  With the fully ducted (out and return) system, any leaks should be obvious out of the vents.

• This reply was modified 12 months ago by JohnD222.

JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

[van islanderParticipantParticipant Topics - 44Replies - 78Total - 122]

Hi John , I got my neighbour to go up and take the measurements , my front AC unit is a Coleman Mach , AC only ,  side measures 33 1/2 in. from where the roof starts to curve to the side of the AC unit , same on both sides , front measures 29 1/2in. from the centre of the metal trim where the cap meets the roof to the frame of the AC unit. Hope this helps you , Cheers.

[JohnD222Participant Topics - 8Replies - 520Total - 528]

Van,

is the bedroom unit on your 2015  a low profile?

Many thanks …

 

JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

[van islanderParticipantParticipant Topics - 44Replies - 78Total - 122]

Hi, yes front one is a Coleman Mach low profile ducted unit , back one is a heat pump unit

[JohnD222Participant Topics - 8Replies - 520Total - 528]

Van,

Thank you and your neighbor very much.

Gonna be wet here for several days so no hole drillings for a bit.

Safe travels.

JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

[PartimewagesParticipant Topics - 4Replies - 62Total - 66]

Sorry, I hurt my ankle and can’t get on the roof. It’s always something anymore! But I’m guessing ours is the same as Van. Same configuration and placement. IMHO these Lifestyle units were every bit as good as the Carriage’s probably better with little to no slide issues. Problem is finding someone to work on them when I can’t!

[JohnD222Participant Topics - 8Replies - 520Total - 528]

PartTime,

I am headed up not the roof layer to day to tape out “Van’s” measurements am the opening s under my Mach 8 low profile.   This weekend wo get unit onto the roof, and if weather holds get it installed by Monday. Plan is to cut small then slowly enlarge to 14×14 opening on top, seeing what i see as i expand. Looks like there might be a permanent outflow/return divider within that opening, but we shall see.

Many thanks.

JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

[JohnD222Participant Topics - 8Replies - 520Total - 528]

Van and others,

If anyone else is attempting this, my March 2013 Lifestyle build date did not have the AC holes where Van’s is.  However without his information I would never have drilled the first hole.  Turns out the front of my low profile Mach 8 will be about 7 inches further to the rear.  I will update with true measurements once ac is bolted down.

 

Good thing I drilled the more forward (now extra) hole first or I would have cut thru the cool-air in ducting and/or the dividing in-out framework built into the ceiling.  Yes, mine does have the needed OEM metal reinforcement (aluminum 1×2) for a top down mount, but I could not locate the extra metal brackets for the 4 top-down self mounting self tapping bolts.  The markouts for drilling the 4 top-down bolt holes are clearly marked in the plastic AC belly pan and does have the 4 raised ribs that accept those extra metal brackets.

The extra hole is far enough forward of the front of the Mach low profile that it can fairly easily be patched with eternabond tape and dicor in a manner that will allow shaping of the latch in an arrowhead so as to not trap water an easy inspection for deterioration later on.

More when there is more…

van islander wrote:

Hi John , I got my neighbour to go up and take the measurements , my front AC unit is a Coleman Mach , AC only , side measures 33 1/2 in. from where the roof starts to curve to the side of the AC unit , same on both sides , front measures 29 1/2in. from the centre of the metal trim where the cap meets the roof to the frame of the AC unit. Hope this helps you , Cheers.

JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

[JohnD222Participant Topics - 8Replies - 520Total - 528]

I knew I was too far forward because I just missed the wiring  between the two forward ceiling lights.  No wonder a stud finder will not work – that arctic foil and very thin aluminum aluminum wrapped duct insulation is abundant and everywhere…

 

BW, can the title of this be changed  or copy/past all posts subsequent to the initial Mack 15 seals/filters question to the “Front AC on newer Lifestyle with Return Air” topic?

JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

[PartimewagesParticipant Topics - 4Replies - 62Total - 66]

John,

Been thinking about replacements for HP/AC. This is for general information. Would it be easy to go all the way through the 14×14 hole and penetrate the ceiling? There are several on the market now that only require a 120V circuit and no low voltage just a remote control. But all of them need to have the ceiling cassette for remote operation. The air vent with these is one you can close off. These unit claim to be more efficient and quite.

[JohnD222Participant Topics - 8Replies - 520Total - 528]

Part Time,

That is in fact what I am going to go.  From the top, there is clear access to the framing of the 14×14.  I see no negatives except noise to cut everything out.  You would simply aluminum foil tape off the oem supply and return ducts from that 14×14.  That would stop the main unit from servicing the 2 most forward bedroom ac outlets, and also cut off the oem return from the bedroom to the main unit. The latter might reduce performance of the main unit by starving it of return air.

My plan is to leave all oem ducting in place, but other than starving the main unit return, which is probably minimal, I see no reason why you could not cut out the fore/aft separator in the ceiling that I am leaving intact.  I will have Photos if that later .

I still have everything open on top, but covered in plexiglass sheet and have not cut into the bedroom ceiling because of daily rains – both intake and exhaust vents in bedroom let in a lot of light that will go away when I out the ac on top of the roof holes. Hopefully tomorrow.

taking photos that I will reduce to pdf to upload once on the road.  If you want any special photos before I button it up just holler – in that new string/topic.

Please start a new string to address your HP ideas. I understand there are some very efficient options out there. Pretty hard for other owners to find buried in Coleman Mach….

More to your question…

If using just the 14×14, you will need to plug the oem surface mount bolt holes in the roof – no big deal- caulk in hole, a 3×3 or so patch of Eternabond tape over the top, dicor around the perimeter. Those holes should never see daylight unless your new rooftop is tiny.  Those surface mount holes are a few inches fore and aft of the 14×14, and have a slightly wider footprint.

 

There are only 5 thermostat wires plus 110 in that 14×14.  If you need more, or temperature sensors for various locations, you would need to fish out new thermo wire through one of the air outlet openings and run new thermostat wire to your desired location. I go into wall at ceiling and drop down to desired location.  My bedroom closet allowed me to drink into the closet, drop down inside, then go back out into the bedroom through that same wall.  Much faster and easier than fishin through a tiny hole in upper wall at ceiling.

 

As I mentioned, I could not find 5ge metal stabilizing grommets for the surface mount.  I probably could gave fabricated something but I a a bit concerned about caulking around those holes and spacers that are outside of the 14×14.  Replacing an oem surface unit is probably pretty east, just unscrew 4 top down mounting bolts, lift off the ac and see  where the holes and spacers are, re-caulk both sides spaces, and bolt the new ac unit back down

I think the process for me would be center on 14×14, -( how the heck am I sure I am there.) drill holes, caulk the spacers, then screw in the self tapping bolts. My plan is use the normal ducted outlet only ceiling mounting square and plastic bedroom ceiling grill.  On top o can see the 14×14 hole and after centering that over the hole, drill straight down all 4 bolt openings.  I may end up needing to completely open that 14×14 to the sky, but my plan is to use that same metal mounting template to cut just the inside and outside lines of that metal, leaving the rest if the ceiling entact.  My hope is that I can preserve that insulation and only have a dummy cover.  Coleman does have an insulated ceiling grill with insert to dum directly down or use oem outlets with return through that grill should my approach not work.

Parttime, there is an incredible amount of insulation both below the roof, between the air out ducts and return air ducts  and below the ceiling – thin but good stuff for noise.  However, I have always used the main room ac when sleeping and 5ge bedroom when havin* dinner inside or watching tv.

My front unit is a heat pump because I want that feature to keep just the bedroom area warm in certain conditions.

Again, I think best that you start a new topic such as  “Replacing any OEM ceiling ac or heat pump with a ?? HP TYPE ?? unit”

 

JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

[JohnD222Participant Topics - 8Replies - 520Total - 528]

Part time,

 

BW has fixed the profile secrion so you cam now add, or add back/change your signature to include year, make and model of camper.

I ended up cutting through to the bedroom ceiling.  The top down mounting kit from Coleman that I received did not have all of the parts needed, AND the self tapping screws were a size smaller than Lifestyle in rear.  Although the top down  metal reinforcements are clearly in the roof,  just too much much risk.

i will send photos later, but of special note  the fore and aft framing of the 14×14 is aluminum with some thinsulate insulation (foil wrapped poly).  The side are wood BUT the sides are NOT boxed all the way down to the bedroom ceiling material.  The left/right return air needs full flow.  If your replacement unit has its own return system you could easily cut out all of the return stuff and frame the sides.  So my 4 traditional mounting bolts and lower metal framework supplied with the Coleman Grill options have lots of meat all the way around on top, but only front and rear down below  should be more than ample the way that lower metal framework is designed.

However, I think I see a “no-go” for you if you intend to use the ac ductwork to the 2 forward bedroom ac outlets.  Cold air dumps out the rear of the ac/ return is in the front.  In the old days, cold air ductwork went out the sides of the 14×14 box.  Now, it goes fire and aft out the middle of the 14×14.  Yes you could use it as a traditional non-ducted bedroom unit.  Yes you can feed the rear of the camper by customizing some short ductwork to tie into that rearward duct in the middle.  Return would need to be up through the bedroom ceiling.

photos later will make this more obvious.

JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

[JohnD222Participant Topics - 8Replies - 520Total - 528]

Photos coming when i have time, BUT

if any of you try installing a 2nd ac in the bedroom that is factory prepped for it BEWARE:

the factory inserted a dead connection box in the romex between the circuit breaker box and the rooftop 14×14 inch cutout.  You need to open that box, cut the blunt caps, strip and connect the white and black wires, OR you have no 110 at the air conditioner. It was not that way in 2010…

 

On a 2013 Lifestyle 36 FWS, that dead connection box is in the lower portion of the upper bedroom cabinet on curb (passenger) side just to the left of the breaker panel.

 

2nd heat pump in and fully operational (with Micro-Air EasyStart 364).

You need to add a one way diode (2 in, 1 out to the furnace at the green lean into the furnace) for both units to work heat properly. For 2nd bedroom heat pump to operate heat, you also need to run 3 thermostat wires from the own thermostat location yo the furnace.

JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

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