Dometic Refrigerator Problem

Comeupwithsomething

Not at all knowledgeable about refrigeration. Think we may be facing some bad news.

Noticed refer seems warm. Tried it on propane and get error message: no FL. Outside behind lower access panel there is a yellowish green “residue” just below black “vessel” into which the coil enters. No noticeable ammonia smell.

We’re in a location with poor internet so searching is a challenge till we can get to town and a wifi, so would really appreciate any suggestions.

---

Posted: 2:51 PM – May 11, 2014

Comeupwithsomething

There is still warmth to the touch of what I believe is the flue. No heat to the touch of what I believe is the refrigeration circuit.

---

Posted: 4:17 PM – May 11, 2014

zachlaplante

There are lots of things that can go wrong with these units. Lets start with how they work. The working fluid is ammonia. Ammonia boils at a very low temperature, so the ammonia is mixed with hydrogen to control the boiling point. The heat for boiling the ammonia comes from inside the refrigerator, making the inside of the refrigerator cold. The hot ammonia and hydrogen vapor goes to a condenser where it condenses to a liquid. The condensate then enters a water bath where the ammonia dissolves in the water and frees the hydrogen. The hydrogen is returned the evaporator where the ammonia boils. The water and ammonia solution go to a heater where the ammonia is driven out of solution, the ammonia goes on to the evaporator and the water returns to the condensate water bath. All of the fluid and gas flows are driven by natural circulation. Hot gasses and liquids rise, cooled gasses and liquids fall.

Here are some common problems.

Since the system uses natural circulation, the refrigerator needs to be level. If it is tilted too much, the natural circulation of the system fluids stops and so does the cooling. Make sure your rig is roughly level, within a few degrees both fore and aft and left/right.

There needs to be a heat source to separate the water and ammonia. If you are plugged in, it is usually electric heaters. If not, it is propane. If your heater is working you can usually feel the heat through the insulation. It is easy to locate, its right where the propane burner is.

The condenser has to be able to reject the heat of the ammonia and hydrogen gas and condense it back to a liquid. The condenser is sensitive to outside temperatures. Some of these refrigerators have 12 volt electric fans to move air across the condenser coils. Also, it helps a lot if the refrigerator is not exposed to direct sun light on the outside. The sun adds a lot of heat to the condenser area. The condenser is located behind the top panel on the outside of your RV. You might look to make sure that the fans are working if you have them and that the air flow for the condenser is not blocked.

These are the most common issues that do not involve broken parts and the need of a technician.

---

Posted: 5:02 PM – May 11, 2014

Comeupwithsomething

Thanks Zach.

I’ve been able to do some basic (w/o pics) research and indications are the yellowish/green reside is a sign there’s a leak in the cooling system, but I don’t understand why no ammonia smell.

We’re pretty close to level. I need to take something out to test that the a/c plug is good.

All frost has melted in freezer. Food has thawed (thankfully there’s a spare fridge nearby). It’s pretty warm. We’ve turned it off but will turn it back on to see if that caused a “reset” of any kind.

There is heat in the flue, so I believe heaters are working. My fear is the refrigerant has leaked out from somewhere, but can’t see where.

Unfortunately (really we’re very fortunate) we’ve just arrived this weekend at our summer wildlife refuge gig so we’re 50 miles from the nearest town of any size, and we’re seeing forecasts for some amount of snow here in Colorado! Good news is we shouldn’t run outta ice for a couple of days (LOL)!

---

Posted: 6:15 PM – May 11, 2014

Traveler

The yellow reside could indicate a leak in the boiler section. Since this leak is outside the box you would rarely smell it inside.

---

Posted: 1:26 PM – May 12, 2014

Comeupwithsomething

Subject line corrected to Norcold from Dometic.

Well, it looks like we need a new refer.

Anyone who’s replaced their Norcold N1095 with a residential unit, would you mind sharing what make and model you used?

Thanks all!

---

Posted: 1:46 PM – May 12, 2014

falconhunter

Comeupwithsomething wrote:Subject line corrected to Norcold from Dometic.

Well, it looks like we need a new refer.

Anyone who’s replaced their Norcold N1095 with a residential unit, would you mind sharing what make and model you used?

Thanks all!

You can start with the link below to get a model number to search for. There are plenty here that will fit your 23.5″ x 58.875″ opening.
Chip
http://www.ajmadison.com/b.php/Top+Free … 966342+776

---

Posted: 11:04 AM – May 25, 2014

Comeupwithsomething

Follow up.

Decided to go the route of getting a rebuilt cooling system (3 yr. warranty) over replacement or change out to residential. Much of the decision was due to cost. The part was $525 + frt. (about $45). The boss and I did the change out in about 4 hours or so, and it’d only take about an hour and 1/2 now that we’re more familiar.

So, we now have a nice cool refrigerator, and freezer was at about 5 degrees after running (empty) overnight.

Now just gotta put some cold beverages in there as reward.

B.W.Gentry
Owner/Admin
2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
Breckenridge, TX

Topic