Entry point for cables? (From TapaTalk Forum)

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    CLOC-AdminCLOC-Admin
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        Posted: 5:18 PM – Jul 08, 2016
        JoeLifestyle
        Thinking of mounting my weboost box on the tv antenna. How to run the wires into the coach? Or if I mount it towards the rear how to get the wires into the coach near the rear cabinets?

        Posted: 8:33 PM – Jul 08, 2016
        papacliff
        I mounted a wifi booster antenna on my TV mast. I ran the cable across the roof then drilled through and put the cable down the hole to the router in a cabinet.

        I secured the cable to the roof with Eternabond tape, I covered the hole with 2 layers of Eternabond, and sealed all the edges with lap sealant. When I’m on the roof for cleaning or whatever, I check the tape. It’s been 3 years, and it hasn’t leaked a drop.


        Posted: 7:11 AM – Jul 09, 2016
        JoeLifestyle
        That sounds good. I may do the same at the rear. First I’ll try to run the cable through the antenna since it’s already drilled.

        Posted: 4:50 PM – Jul 09, 2016
        gjhunter01
        I plan to add a outside antenna for a police scanner. My thoughts are to attach it to the ladder mount, run the cable down the ladder to underneath, then drill a hole into the rear compartment floor. From there, I plan to run the cable through the floor vent into the camper. Whenever I add anything to our camper, my one goal is to be able to remove everything with out leaving any trace behind.
        Greg

        Posted: 5:10 PM – Jul 09, 2016
        Traveler
        That is what I did when we added a Wi-Fi booster antenna, ran it down the ladder through the rear storage door up the vent in the rear. The only problem is I do unscrew the antenna when we hit the road just to make sure I don’t hit a low hanging branch, not sure it’s necessary, but just a precaution.
        Jim

        Posted: 9:35 PM – Jul 12, 2016
        JoeLifestyle
        I just realized the weboost uses a coaxial cable, so I’m going to try to repurpose the existing coax running through the tv antenna. Drilling through the floor sounds like a good option.

        Posted: 6:03 PM – Jul 13, 2016
        Running_Bear
        I don’t know what kind of booster you are relating to. I have a BearExtender WI-Fi booster I plug into the USB port of my ckomputer and then set the booster on the window ledge at the desk. Works like a charm. Sometimes, I do have to move the computer to the other side of the coach at the kitchen table if the signal is better there, but it works like a charm. No drilling or running wires.

        Posted: 6:07 PM – Jul 13, 2016
        JoeLifestyle
        This is a more complicated roof mounted booster – weboost. You mount a unit on the roof and the small desktop antenna inside.

        Posted: 8:22 PM – Jul 13, 2016
        JohnD222
        Faithbowl,

        If you will not be using your over the air tv antenna, you can re-purpose, but it “ain’t easy.”

        The roof cable leads down to the cigarette lighter booster, then goes to main tv and bedroom tv, BUT the park cable-in is also in the mix.

        I found in my rig that everything connects in the off-curb side rear storage area.

        A separate cable is really the way to go. Winegard (the sat dish folks) sell an “accessory” roof penetration cap. It is great and comes in 2 versions. 3 coax wire or 1 wire. The 3-wire is pictured here:

        http://www.winegard.com/rv-mounts-acces … tech-specs

        But that shows footed mounts that you do not need. A little searching will find what you need.

        You can put one of those right next to the existing over the air entry, go inside and take apart the over the air crank mechanism, and feed the separate coax into the coach right next to the crank. I ran mine to the sidewall then down the wall to just above the slide wood trim. Then along that to the rear of the 5er.

        Just be sure to use waterproof coax connectors topside.


        Posted: 11:14 PM – Jul 13, 2016
        JoeLifestyle
        Yes thanks for that. I don’t use the tv antenna so I’ll mount the cel booster on the antenna and get the benefit of the crank. I’ll see if I can use the existing coax just to get through the roof or I’ll run a new cable through the crank handle as you said. I don’t think this decice would work through any kind of tv junction so I won’t be getting into my wiring. Should work well. I’ll post the results. Hopefully it actually boosts our cel signal as advertised.

        Posted: 12:27 AM – Jul 14, 2016
        JohnD222
        If you do that, take apart the crank assembly from below. You will need to cut the coax and add the appropriate cable end, adding more cable with the appropriate end to get to your cell-amp or whatever.

        I am not sure what you should do with the blunt end that leads down to the cigarette lighter over the air amp. Leaving it blunt may weaken Park cable reception. Others may chime in as to whether it is advisable to put a coax end on it, then cap it..


        Posted: 12:18 AM – Jul 15, 2016
        sglad
        TV coax is 75 ohm, cell/wi-fi antennas most often use 50 ohm coax.

        B.W.Gentry
        Owner/Admin
        2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
        Breckenridge, TX

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      • #32908
        JohnD222JohnD222
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          Update about cable entry/exit points for rooftop antennas and other options such as cell phone amplifier antennas, wi-GI Extender external antennas, roof mounted sat dishes, and solar panels.

           

          lots of options.

          Always possible to drill a hole in the rear cap and enter into the cabinets above the rear windows on the 5er

          Most popular for solar and rooftop sat seem to be drilling and capping a new hole close enough to the sewer vent cap on the roof so that if you take the vent cap off you can fish a wire, then the cable to the hole in the roof for the vent pipe.  The vent pipe drops directly into the main storage basement to the rear of the black wall.  Then fish wire where you want it.

          Another popular option for antennas mounted on the roof, tv antenna lift or ladder is drilling and capping a new hole close to the rooftop antennae.  Remove the crank up antennae components from the bottom an “see” the wire or cable you are fishing down.  Drill another hole upward into the ceiling panel in the living room as close to the outer wall as possible – probably bit more than an inch from the wall.  Then use white “wire molding” to hide the probably black cable as you route the cable to the cabinets that hang across the back of the 5er.  I added 110 power and 12 volt power into the cabinet area for WiFi amplifiers, cell amplifiers, auto sat dish on/off controller, etc.  The WiFi router is outside the cabinet an the 5er wall to the rear of the dinette slide.  I keep antennas and cable runs separate as much as  possible.  When amplifiers are on, you need to keep a cabinet door open, or take one off and dado out a few vent grooves.

           

          Weingard makes and and sells great cable entry point covers for coax cable sized cable, but extra dicor will fill the void for smaller cables.  The are about 4” by 4”, and about 1/4 inch thick where flat, taller where cables are inserted flat against the roof,  you can put a 2.5 inch hole in your roof to give yourself plenty of work space, but I have not needed holes that large.

           

          JohnD222
          Based in Florida except summer
          2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

          #32920
          JohnD222JohnD222
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            Web site and photos of Winegard cable entry covers:

            https://winegard.com/industry/recreational-vehicle-rv/accessories/cellular-accessories-marine/cable-entry-plates

             

             

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            JohnD222
            Based in Florida except summer
            2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

            #32922
            JohnD222JohnD222
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              JohnD222
              Based in Florida except summer
              2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

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