FWS Gap measurements

FWS Gap measurements

I measured the physical gap on the outside with full slide extension (with the bedroom door able to close)(move the slide out and then bump in) sigh..

 

Outside not good but not bad.

12.5cm forward, 12.6 center upper and 12.6 aft upper

20cm forward lower, and 2ea 19cm measurements center lower and 19.6 fully aft

½ in difference for non-metric. That’s a bit of a variance.

 

Inside weird. I took a LOT of photos and measurements at 20cm in and fully in, 

20cm in was 15mm difference,  .6in difference

 

Fully in 28mm difference 1.1 inch whoa…

 

Measurements: 

20cm in (8in)  back to front

2.5cm, 2.8cm, 3.1cm at fridge, 3.5cm at steps, 3.6cm at bedroom door, 4.0 bedroom gap

 

Fully in retracted but not 100% top to bottom (in too far at top) (back to front)

27mm forward, 27 again at sink, 29 at before fridge, 32 at fridge, 38 at steps, 40 at bedroom door and 55 bedroom 

 

I am reading all the old posts on adjustment but HARD to find them all, I am pasting the relevant to me, ones I can find into a doc and printing for I can’t wrap my head around it 100% yet. 

Seems to be a combination of height adjustment of rollers on the frame and the “tilt” that seems to happen at close to full extension. 

Feel like both ends come in too far at the top and the middle kitchen fridge and stairs area doesn’t tilt out far enough to seal properly. I can stick my little finger in the middle upper gap. 

The weird part is the rollers appear adjusted too high in the rear, for the decals don’t match aft, but do line up forward. I will know more after “roller discovery and metal cutting of the trim below the slide”

I will follow the combination of John, AJ and Chip’s discussions from 2016-2018 for roller discovery, adjustment and resolutions.

I am starting to understand the rollers, but have not added the confusion of the outer wall adjustments on the actual slide yet…

 

 

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[HokiedadParticipantTopics - 5Replies - 13Total - 18]

looks like you’ve been doing extensive work on your full wall slide. Did you by chance find any reference as to how to adjust the slide? I need to tweet mine a bit and can’t find any details of how to adjust

 

[ramseyjackParticipantParticipantTopics - 30Replies - 145Total - 175]

After reviewing a bunch of documents, mostly from John D, I started measuring out where the 7 outer wall rollers were located. This included unzipping the lower fabric and making attempts at getting my head up into the areas to see the roller adjustment. I seemed to have more luck with an endoscope attached to my phone, combined with a putty knife to manually find the outer edges of the rollers and marking the center for making holes in the trim to adjust the roller height. John sent me his measurement instructions from his Cameo FWS and all his measurements were within 1/2 in or less. (Pasted below)
Beginning of paste:
I am measuring from the back to front inside that sheetmetal trim. First from the rear to the steps upward, then starting measuring from “0” inches again from the inside of the higher up sheetmetal trim to the front nose.

you can see the first roller in photo of the starting point at rear, the roller is usually at the center of the cover plate that I made from an old sign, but just roll down the lower slide seal and slide a flexible putty knife into the void – you will immediately encounter the roller. I can actually get my middle finger in almost to my 2nd knuckle and can feel if not see the roller. Then move the putty knife left or right to find outer edge. No need to press hard – there is the roller that presses against the black cloth on the bottom of the slide, then nothing but air. Adjuster is in the center of the roller.
I just realized that I forgot to measure the openings, but I recall them being about 2.5 inches tall and about 4 inches wide. Depending upon your schedule for digging into this, I should be over there again tomorrow and can get that info and also take a photo of an adjuster as seen through my access cutout without the cover plate.

Anyway, lay a measuring tape in the trim ledge starting at the rear and extend as far as you can. You can extend the tape under the rails but will encounter the rear hinge and will need to hold the tape in place. Ditto when you hit the more forward hinges.

11.5 inches from the rear is about the centerline of the rear most roller.

At 49 (37.5 more) you pass under the rear most rail. If you lubricate with anything other than silicone the grease will get on carpet inside, but maybe not wood flooring.
At 73 inches is the centerline of the 2nd roller.
At 121 is centerline of 3rd roller.
At 159 you pass under the 2nd forward rail.
At 172 is the centerline of the 4th roller. The second forward hinge is in the way here. Bolts at both ends need to be removed as well as the zip ties that hold the 120 volt electrical wire and flex propane line. You need to do this to cut the access hole but also every time you need to adjust that roller. You MUST reattach the hinge before moving slide in or out any distance!!
At 190 inches You are now at at the end of the rear sheetmetal shelf and at the step up into the bedroom.
Again lay the tape measure at the rear of the forward shelf.
14 inches forward of the start of that shelf is roller 5.

At 55 inches from rear of shelf you are at roller 6.

At 80 you are at the 3rd rail.

50 more inches forward you are at roller 7, but no access hole is possible due to the frame. To access roller adjustment you open up the front storage compartment completely. Stand with your head inside the storage area. Pull the insulation out. It is about a foot forward and to the left. All you see is the nut not the roller.

End of paste:

I measured this all, and thought about the fact the EASY to get at rollers (front ones) were, from my point of view, too low (50mm gap from slide to top of opening) and all the lock nuts tight, and the rears were too high (25mm from top of slide to top of opening).
This made me think, someone may have just gone the easy way and raised the rear OUTSIDE wall adjustment to get it to even out top to bottom. My slide was touching the bottom upon full extension (out) but not at the top. And upon full closure, it was too tight at the top and too far out at the bottom. I had a set of instructions for the dinette slide showing I should raise the outer wall to get it to eaven out. I notices someone had previously had raised the rear and lowered the front. I lowered the rear and presto the slide was better aligned (top to bottom) but not well aligned in the middle of the huge 30′ slide (about a 10mm gap in the gasket to the wall after I put my shoulder in it, and nudged the upper part of the wall out.
BYW this was 100% backwards of the instructions I had but it worked. The bedroom door even closed now.

I am NOT happy with the alignment yet, but will cut 4 in x 2in square holes in the trim below the inaccessible roller adjustment and experiment some more.
Anyone who has a Carriage, Cameo, Carrilite, Evergreen or Lifestyle FWS that is currently stored with the slides fully in and can measure the gap between the top of the opening and the slide I would appreciate greatly any measurements you could make.

Thoughts currently are to raise the front 2 1/4in gap rollers and lower the rear 1 in gap a bit at a time while balancing the center rollers.

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[ramseyjackParticipantParticipantTopics - 30Replies - 145Total - 175]

more pics

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[ramseyjackParticipantParticipantTopics - 30Replies - 145Total - 175]

try again

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