Living room slide does not seal when out

My 2010 37RESLS living room slide does not seal by 1”when the slide is out. It is tight at the bottom and seals good when retracted.  It functions easy going in and out with noise noise.  The slide brackets are fully adjusted to the top of the slots in the bracket.  To me it looks like bracer has to be adjusted down but there is no adjustment unless I take the brackets off and make the holes longer.
What am I missing here. Anyone have this problem?  Thanks, Mike

Topic

[expired-memberBlockedBlockedTopics - 86Replies - 191Total - 277]

Forgot to mention it is the top of the slide that is one inch out from sealing. The bottom of the slide is ok. Thanks, Mike

[JohnD222ParticipantTopics - 8Replies - 518Total - 526]

Mike,

how do your decals line up when the slide is in?

I presume you mean the tv section of the living room, not the dinette.

from your description of the slots in brackets, you cannot lower the outer edge of the slide wall.  Looking underneath the slide, is the fabric worn?  Maybe the outer frame rollers are out of adjustment (too low).  Many left the factory not locked into place.

Lots of talk about these adjustments in the FWS strings.  I think that your 37  is a little different (shorter in length), but same gearing and roller setup.

expired-member wrote:

“My 2010 37RESLS living room slide does not seal by 1”when the slide is out.”

”The slide brackets are fully adjusted to the top of the slots in the bracket.  To me it looks like bracer has to be adjusted down but there is no adjustment ”

Forgot to mention it is the top of the slide that is one inch out from sealing. The bottom of the slide is ok. Thanks, Mike

JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

[expired-memberBlockedBlockedTopics - 86Replies - 191Total - 277]

Thanks for replying.  The slide decal is 1/2 +inch higher than the decal on the body of the short living room slide which has the couch on it.  My TV is at the rear window.    The fabric on underside of the slide looks new.

I have little knowledge of the slides and the terminology used in posts are a little confusing.  Am I assuming right that FWS means full wall slide?  When you say rollers are you referring to the full wall slide rollers that contact the floor or the sealed bearing rollers on the undercarriage slide structures.  My two living room slides do not have  slide floor rollers, they are flush floor.

I wish I can add pictures but site says they are too large.   Haven’t figured out how to dorm size them

Thanks for the help

[expired-memberBlockedBlockedTopics - 86Replies - 191Total - 277]

I’m thinking that I may have to modify slide bracket as in attachment.

[expired-memberBlockedBlockedTopics - 86Replies - 191Total - 277]

I measured  the outside corners of both living room slides at about 10 in extended out in a neutral position as recommended by Bill bill from rbw.  the difference in measurements for the couch slide was one and a half inches top to bottom closer at the top.  difference between the high and low measurements was 2 inches. maybe that recommendation was just for the FWS and not for the flat floor slides but it would seem like it would be the same.

The different in the large dining room slide was 1 9/16 “

[JohnD222ParticipantTopics - 8Replies - 518Total - 526]

Mike,

From you description of decals and fabric under the slide, I doubt there has been any mechanical out of adjustment movement. I believe that some models have a rear slide or two that is controlled by the same heavy gear and chain mechanism as the FWS (full wall slide).  Given your model’s stair location into the bedroom, yours is probably not one of those, so won’t have the rollers I refer to.  That does not mean there aren’t any, I just don’t know about them.

I would focus my attention on what the top rubber seal is or is not doing. If that top rubber is not rolling out properly, enlarging the bracket holes won’t do much good.

The last inward 4 inches or so on top of every 2008-11 cameo slide I have seen is slanted upward to keep rain out and eliminate the need for slide toppers.

The heavy double banded 4” long rubber seal might have gotten stiff enough that it does not bend or roll outward easily enough to flatten outward in time to allow that top to weigh itself out.  If there is pine tar on the slide roof that would make the rubber seal stick (rolled inward) even more.  It is easiest to clean and lubrcate the rubber seal with 303 or some other product with the slide about 6 inches out.  That way the slide has dropped a bit and you can still reach in from the outer side to clean and lubricate both rubber lips.  You might also find that the seal is rolled up in the inward position and not flopping outward as the slide goes out at all, again because it is unlubricated and becoming inflexible. If it has not rolled out by itself, it becomes a block against that ramped up section of the roof, preventing the top from going out.  At that “only 6-inches out” position you can reach in and roll it back out where it belongs.  That is almost impossible to do if slide is further extended, impossible if it is extended to the “ramped up” section.   It will roll back in as the slide goes back in, but if you lubricate and leave fully out stretching the rubber, is should roll out properly the next time.

Separately or in conjunction with the above, you could try quasi-hanging yourself (from a ladder) from the outer top outer edge of the slide when it is about an inch from all the way out at the bottom.  Not all the way out because that top ramp up is by then going to be a lot more resistant to the gentle pull from the extra weight.  This would probably stretch the rubber enough so when further extended the remaining 1 inch at the bottom the top will go out with it.  If that extra weight does stretch the seal and top goes out where it belongs, that modest stretching of the unbendeng or unlubricated seal might be enough to last a few more openings, particularly if you leave it out and stretched for a full day.

Good luck.

JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

[expired-memberBlockedBlockedTopics - 86Replies - 191Total - 277]

Checked the top slide seals and they are pliable and flop with the direction the slide is going so thinking that is not the problem.   Found that there was about 1/16 inch adjustment in the slide bracket left so now it is adjusted as far as it’s going.   That adjustment cut the decal alignment and top slide gap in half. So thinking another 1/16 and it may be perfect.  Think I will block up the slide and take one bracket off one at a time and file out the adjustment  slot.

[JohnD222ParticipantTopics - 8Replies - 518Total - 526]

Mike,

 

ok…. Good luck, be careful.

 

downsizing photos

try taking photo with phone, then emailing it to yourself via an email client.  Those often ask if you want to reduce the size.

 

if you can and do elect that, open the incoming email and dave to photos. Try loading that saved photo…

JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

[expired-memberBlockedBlockedTopics - 86Replies - 191Total - 277]

Well didn’t get very far on what I thought would work.  After I realized that putting a 4×4 across both of the slide arms to support the slide end walls, with the slide about 1 foot extended , wouldnt allow me to remove the slide bracket, I gave up untill I get my son to help.   Need to move rig to a level place so I can  crib from ground up to support the slide then  I can retract the slide arms a few inches to remove the brackets.   At least that is the way I picture it now. All that is going to have to wait until I get back from our coast to coast trip.

 

 

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