Lowering springs one hole to raise 5er

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  • #63215
    expired-memberexpired-member
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      My 2009 Cameo 37 rides low in the back. I want to utilize the lower spring mounting holes to level it some. How hard is this to do and what’s the best way to do it?
      I also want to raise my Mor/ryde kingpin box one hole. With both these changes the 5er should ride level. Same question. How hard and how to do?

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    • #63216
      JohnD222JohnD222
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        What year tow rig do you have?  You may be attempting mission impossible without lowering your tow vehicle by replacing rear blocks under tow vehicle rear springs.

        Just about every year since 2008 pickup truck bed heights and side rail heights above the bed have increased.

        Gold members have access to documents that depict normal pin height above ground and the height of 5er overhang above ground.  with and without 4×4 adjustment to trailer spring shackles.  You need a good 5-8 inches of clearance of 5er overhang above pickup side rails.

        if you have a 2008 4×4, raising rear shackles is easy fix.  A 2011 requires also raising 5er pin box, which is also pretty easy.  Several threads on this. Done both.  A 2015 becomes pretty complicated with minimum side rail clearances.  2017-19 forget it without mods to tow vehicle.  2020+ back to 2015 problem, but the higher siderails on 2020+, even with tow vehicle spring mods, almost mandate a nose high 5er if 5er is older than a 2021.  What are these manufacturers thinking?

         

        Good luck.

        JohnD222
        Based in Florida except summer
        2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

        #63217
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          This is my tow rig. 2016 f250 4×4. I have 8″ above the bed rails to work with. I’m running a BW Patriot slider hitch on a Curt puck mounting bracket which raises the hitch height 2.5″.

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          #63221
          JohnD222JohnD222
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            Yes, I see the nose high. If you now have 8 inches, you should be able to make it work without changing blocks below springs. You might want to check if your rear tires are rated for the weight of your 5er’s pin weight when attached.

            If you follow the trim line between the white wall and the bronze/brown skirting when loaded on truck, how many inches taller is it all the way in the front (not the nose, just the end of the bronze skirting) versus all the way at the rear.  You will want to lower the hitch (most have some vertices adjustment) or raise the pin box by 1/2 that amount.  My hitch raises/lowers by the inch; pin box by 1.5 inch, so sometimes a bit of each.  A slightly high nose is better than a slightly low nose.

            Your truck has quite a bit of squat when loaded.  You probably do not have too much axle play between current static level and the yellow bumper stop above the axle.  That can make for quite a jolt when you go over a bump and hit the yellow bump stops.  It also puts your headlights into the trees versus on the road at night.  You might want to add air bags or an extra overload spring so trock rides a bit higher in the rear.  Either will of course add to the current nose high camper, but airbags are infinitely adjustable.  Do not get the airbags with the internal bumper or you will be right back where you are with harsh jolt over bumps.

            A definite first step is raise the shackle points.  The swapped position trailer shackles will raise the 5er 1.5 inches if they are not already there.  Lots of texts say 2 inches, but reality is 1.5 inches.  If you have a rubber equalizer between the two axles, make certain that it is not worn (torn to extent you can insert a putty knife more than 1/2 inch). If it is get these parts before you start.   If worn the replacement will raise the 5er a bit – how much depends upon how worn, but could be another 1.5 inches if excessively worn.

            I don’t believe you have big foots, so you will need heavy hydraulic lifts or floor jacks to lift the rear end of the vehicle after you have raised the nose with the forward legs.   Also floor jacks to support each shackle set (one side at a time).  Do not lift the 5er from the extreme rear end – the frame is not strong back there.   Lift the frame from as close to the rear axle as you can get.  This is not terribly difficult work, but it is arduous lifting, prying and pushing.  Lots of folks have done this by themselves  with a strong handy helper.

            After you raise the shackles, hook up again and see where the nose high position is now.  If you added airbags, put 35 psi or so in to raise the truck so it Ishtar above the oem overload spring.  This will make your bed siderails about level.   Remeasure that trim line in front versus rear of 5er. You will want to lower the hitch (most have some vertices adjustment) or raise the pin box by 1/2 that amount.  Lowering the hitch is easier/lighter work.  The bolts on the pin box are much tighter torque levels so it takes muscle and the pin box is both heavy (50 pounds) and awkward to lift/move, but an unhooked pickup bed with plywood and a floorjack on that (with a few leveling blocks) will allow you to unbolt, lower, reposition, and reboot the pin box.

            JohnD222
            Based in Florida except summer
            2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)

            #63222
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              Thank you. Gave me every bit of information I needed.
              My Patriot hitch is already at the lowest position. My wife and I raised the pin box yesterday to the highest position. I believe that by lowering the shackles it should be right where it needs to be.
              Will look at the airbags in the near future. The budgeting committee (wife) is still in a small state of shock over a set of new tires and shocks so the bags will have to wait for right now.
              Thanks again, you’ve been a great help.
              Dave

              #63939
              van islandervan islander
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                I have a 2010 Dodge Ram 3500 and a 2011 31 KSLS Cameo, and the only way I got my 5’r to ride level was to flip the axles and I’m so happy I did, the rear tires on the Cameo used to run 10 degrees hotter than the front ones and the back used to drag going onto ferries, now the tires run at the same temp and no more dragging, it has also helped alot with the porpoising I used to get, it’s a bit off work but well worth it.

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