- This topic has 0 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 5 years, 10 months ago by
CLOC-Admin.
CLOC-Admin.- Topic
- CLOC-AdminMy landing jacks motor has broken its plastic tabs.and now rotates along with 7′ spindle that ties the two landing legs together. Has anybody else had this problem or know how to correct this situation. Thank you. RichardPosted: 6:22 PM – Oct 08, 2018Yes I have. Last month the gear housing broke while we were up in Alaska. I also noticed the motor seemed to be labouring. My unit is a used 2008 32 ft. and we had been on an epic journey for 9 months and covered a distance of just under 30,000 kilometres. So with the number of campsites we had visited during that time the plastic knobs were stressed and one of them broke.
After making a temporary fix, I ordered the gear housing and a new motor on Amazon and, after watching a YouTube video, (which I would recommend watching) I tackled the task.
When I installed the new parts, the new motor laboured too. Then, after more research on YouTube, I removed the landing gear one leg at a time and tested the leg using an electric drill on the drive shafts. The “following” jack ran free and clear but I found that the “lead” jack gear was binding and needed to be cleaned and lubricated. Again YouTube showed me two methods to get at the worm gear inside the jack leg and lay in some grease.
If you are a do-it-yourselfer you can do this in a half day or less once you get everything together.
In closing, I have owned my truck and 5th wheel for 4 years now and have managed to figure many things out myself.
While travelling for 9 months, I went through 2 greaseless bearings. I recommend that owners always carry a spare bearing because it can take a few days for a dealer the get the right one in.
Secondly, to my knowledge, the landing gear on my used unit had never been greased. I recommend that owners have their landing gear units serviced when their RVs reach their 8th anniversary. I was told that all trailer landing gear will fail eventually and this is one of the preventive services that will keep you trucking.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted: 12:29 PM – Oct 10, 2018Thank you Brian- Will head to U-tube and get smartened up. Appreciate the advice. RichardPosted: 9:46 AM – Oct 13, 2018Brian, any chance you can post a link to the video’s you are referring to.Thx,
BobPosted: 9:19 PM – Oct 15, 2018cutterbob wrote:Brian, any chance you can post a link to the video’s you are referring to.Thx,
BobSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted: 9:28 PM – Oct 15, 2018Brian3484 wrote:cutterbob wrote:Brian, any chance you can post a link to the video’s you are referring to.Thx,
BobSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey Bob:
Sorry it took so long to get back to you.
Look up “Love Your R/V” on YouTube.
1 – Replacing my 5th wheel jacks gearbox and;
2 – Fifth wheel trailer landing jack lubrication.
Another site on YouTube is EV4U Custom Conversions but the commentary is very dry. Just a different method to lubricate the worm gear.
I used the have pipe method.
Cheers
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted: 12:08 AM – Oct 16, 2018Thanks Brian.Bob
Posted: 12:43 PM – Oct 19, 2018Posted: 2:29 PM – Jan 21, 2019I could use some help thinking about a planned landing gear upgrade.I have a Cameo F32SB2 with a pin weight in the low 3000# range. I have had repeated problems with the original M-9000 PKl Venture landing gear motor, and am considering an upgrade to the Venture MT 9000HT (hi torque) motor, which boosts load capacity from 5500 to 6500 lbs. Venture sells these motors to Lippert and to Stromberg Carlson. I have maintained the landing gear reasonably well, with no evidence of mechanical binding. I will also replace the original plastic gearbox with a metal one.
The upgraded motor is faster, pulling 25 amps at 3000# vs. about 13 amps for the original motor. Both are sold by Stromberg Carlson with the same 12 gage wiring and switch assembly. I have considered a two-motor system, bur would like to avoid the expense if possible.
Two questions for the group:
1) anybody else had problems with their original motor, done an upgrade to the high torque motor, and how did it work for you?
2) Twelve gage wiring from the switch to the motor seems light for a 25 amp load. (it’s 10 ga. to the switch from the battery). thoughts on this?
Thanks,
Joe
Posted: 5:15 PM – Jan 27, 2019My rule of thumb for fixed loads (lighting and electronics) is 14ga for 15amps, 12ga for 20amps, 10ga for 30amps.If it is long run over 10′ ( for DC this is 20′ of wire) or something what will heat up quickly (like a motor) I us a DC wire size calculator with the allowable voltage drop set between 3% and 5%.
Posted: 7:39 PM – Mar 31, 2019Last year I purchased a leg rebuild kit and a new aluminum housed gearbox as my original plastic one failed. I found one of the brass thrust washer/bushings had failed in the top of the leg and this allowed the gears to come out of mesh. After replacement, I still had a power problem. I am currently in the midst of adding a motor to the passenger side and removing the driveshaft from the drivers side leg. This job includes changing out the input shaft on the passenger side leg to accommodate the gearbox and motor, 2, 25 amp relays (one for each motor), two 25 amp auto-reset fuses and some #10 AWG wire and terminal ends. I may have to add a limit switch later contingent on differential motor speed, but will wait to see how big a difference there is prior to purchasing these switches as they are about $75 can each. An alternativeto the limit switch is to add a power cut off switch to the faster side. This essentially will act like a limit switch but will have to be toggled manually when the faster leg is fully up or down. You can buy a complete kit for about $1000 cdn. depending on where you buy it and this modification I’m doing if you have to buy everything you need (I had a lot of the parts already) will cost you about $700. Because I had the most expensive parts already, I’ve spent only about $200 cdn.
JohnPosted: 10:09 PM – Mar 31, 2019Good stuff! This is what makes this site valuable! Whenever you have issues, take photos and share YouTube videos! It makes for a world of difference when you get in a bind!Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Posted: 4:10 PM – Apr 01, 2019I’m posting here a link to a word document that explains what needs to be done to install a second motor on the passenger side landing leg. There are a few photo’s with my own rudimentary explanation for the work I performed. Since this was done, I’ve installed the relays and fuses required to utilize the existing toggle switch for both motors. The wire I need to complete the job should arrive today. If it does, I’ll complete the wiring, confirm it works and post a link to a similar explanation for this remaining work. Hopefully of some use to someone else one day.
Posted: 8:16 PM – Apr 01, 2019Just following your direction Mark!Posted: 6:42 PM – Apr 02, 2019I’ve completed the wiring intended to operate the two landing leg motors and the system works as intended. I was hoping for a modest speed differential between the two motor/gearbox/leg sides and unfortunately in just four inches of overall travel, there is a quarter inch difference already. I’ve yet to figure out which of three options I’m going with in order to fix the problem as each of them offer both benefits and problems.Option 1- add limit switches.
This option is expensive ($150) and only fixes the retract problem. Having them meet the ground differently doesn’t really present that big of an issue but I could find myself always having to shim one leg more than the other not withstanding differences in ground conditions.Option 2 – adding a power cut off on the faster leg.
This option will be a nuisance to contend with. It will cure the differential speed issue but I’ll have to stop the process and reach for the cut off and then continue. When lifting the RV, I will constantly be playing with this thing as I try to retract the legs and keep the unit level.Option 3 – Add a second switch.
The benefits here are obvious. I can move each leg independently at ease, use it to level side to side at least a little bit and lastly it’s much less expensive than the limit switches. The problem however is I’ve no space for a second switch. The location of my existing one is centred between the hole used to manually raise/lower the legs and the side of the receptacle the switch is housed in.I’m posting two photos here, one of the wiring with relays and fuses. The other of the receptacle where my existing switch is. I might be able to get two switches small enough to fit but not sure. If some explanation of the wiring is required, just ask.
Posted: 4:56 PM – Apr 03, 2019Option ThreeToday I picked up two narrow polarity reversing rocker switches at Princess Auto (very similar to Harbor Frieght in the USA). I also purchased some plastic to mount them in. The space in the photo above showing my existing switch is 2 5/8 inch wide (between the receptacle wall -left- and the hole for the manual crank handle -right). I managed to mount the two switches within the space I’ve got so tomorrow I’ll remove the existing switch and install these two. Wiring is just a 10 minute job. I think this is the best possible outcome for this modification. I’ll post a photo of the completed job when I get an opportunity
JTPosted: 11:52 AM – Apr 04, 2019New switch installation is now complete. Switches fit, Job’s done and works great.Posted: 1:41 PM – Apr 04, 2019Nice work!B.W.Gentry
Owner/Admin
2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
Breckenridge, TX
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.