- This topic has 0 replies, 1 voice, and was last updated 5 years, 9 months ago by
moo2613.
moo2613.- Topic
- moo2613
- Topics - 14
- Replies - 43
- Total - 57
Ok, some of the earlier posts got close to what I am experiencing, but not quite there. I do have a transfer switch if that makes a difference. I had no power (12V or AC) last week and my GFI breaker had tripped when I did my every couple day check on the camper (I leave it plugged in all the time). I reset the breaker and had a loud pop from below my feet, so I flipped the main off and went out to investigate. It appeared and smelled like the converter toasted. Looked through the vents on the side of the converter and I could see a burnt/melted wire. Called progressive and they sent me a remanufactured one. Hooked it up and plugged it into an extension cord for now so I have 12V.I started playing with the breakers by turning them on one at a time. I had 2 different breakers turn on my front air conditioner blower
and the heat pump thermostat seemed to turn on the front air unit, not the main room like it should . Then it turned into every time I turned on a breaker that had a draw, the GFI breaker popped. So I went and got a regular 20 amp breaker to take the GFI out of the system for testing purposes. I installed it, turned on all of the breakers and they all stayed on. Front air blower did not come on so I went to the main room to plug something into an outlet. About the time I got down the stairs, there was a loud pop behind me and no breakers were thrown, but had bad odor in bedroom area. I went back and turned on the fireplace and it turned on the front air conditioner . At this point, I am completely confused and I turned off all breakers and unplugged the camper. I left the converter plugged into the extension cord so that the heater could run. I went up top and pulled the cover off of the front air and there was no odor everything looked good.I know this is getting long, but I am baffled. I am open for any thoughts, from reading, I think one of the GFI plugs could also be bad and I plan to take those out of the system this evening and see what I have going. The one by the kitchen sink would not “test” for me yesterday evening, but it didn’t have any power at that time and I don’t know it they will test without it. Could the transfer switch be the issue? If so, where do I find it?
Posted: 12:06 PM – Dec 27, 2013Hi Moo…..I’m an electrician and based on your explanation, you have something weird going on there. I will say that I don’t think that it is something that can be diagnosed through this forum…In my, view I would have to see things and take a systematic approach to it to figure out what is going on……RichPosted: 12:49 PM – Dec 27, 2013I would definitely suspect the transfer switch and it’s a good thing you are plugged into 110 instead of 50 amp service. The transfer switch should be located behind the basement wall where the heater is. Kind of under your stair area. I would disconnect the shore power and pull the cover off of the transfer switch and inspect it!!!. Don’t plug into 50 amp shore power until you do this, it could be a very dangerous situation. They did a terrible job at Carriage wiring mine in and I didn’t need it so I got rid of it. Here is how I rewired mine.
post6361.html?hilit=transfer#p6361
Here is a link to the old Carriage forum for how I removed the transfer switch and added a receptical for a freezer.
http://carriageowners.net/forum/index.php?topic=1210.0
ChipPosted: 12:54 PM – Dec 27, 2013Here is a picture of how Carriage wired my switch. Notice how they ran the bare lead directly across the top of the hot leads. This was a problem waiting to happen not to mention a poor excuse for a transfer switch.
Chip
Posted: 1:30 PM – Dec 27, 2013Rich and Chip, thank you both for your thoughts. My current plan will be to pull the wall out in the storage compartment and have a look at the transfer switch. From the picture above, I think I will just plan on getting a Progressive 50a transfer switch and then I do not have to worry about it anymore. If the switch looks ok, then I will continue on with my changing of the GFI outlets. Thank you again. I am open to any and all thoughts on this. First rain free weekend in 2 months and I am stuck at home instead of out enjoying the Cameo…….Chip, I like how you re-wired yours, but we do have the installed generator that we use often.
Posted: 2:51 PM – Dec 27, 2013I would say most definite the transfer switch. My wife kept smelling burnt plastic something hot etc. Not all the time but from time to time.
I too pulled the wall apart and this is what I found-
Image no longer available. Deleted by ImageShack – Please Repost Image if possible with new methodPosted: 3:18 PM – Dec 27, 2013Wow, that will get your attention!!Posted: 3:57 PM – Dec 27, 2013I have been having power issues in my trailer, as well. I am having the service department bypass the transfer switch in my unit as I do not have a generator and do not plan to install one.
I have already cooked one transfer switch and the service tech (10 years repairing Carriages) said the transfer switch was a weak spot with the Carriage trailers.Posted: 8:31 AM – Dec 28, 2013Wondering if all Cameo’s have a transfer switch, or just units with generators? No genny in my 2010 Cameo, but I suppose they could have pre-wired the system?
If there is one, where would it be found in a 32 FWS…..something to look at based on these pictures!Thanks…Celt
Posted: 8:44 AM – Dec 28, 2013NHCelt wrote:Wondering if all Cameo’s have a transfer switch, or just units with generators? No genny in my 2010 Cameo, but I suppose they could have pre-wired the system?
If there is one, where would it be found in a 32 FWS…..something to look at based on these pictures!Thanks…Celt
Celt.
If you ordered or purchased your rig with the gen prep then you most likely will have a transfer switch. It should be located somewhere behind the walls in the main storage compartment. An alternative for people with a generator is to go with a manual transfer switch.
Posted: 8:50 AM – Dec 28, 2013Celt,It would be behind the rear black wall in the main storage area. When you pull the wall out you will see the furnace on the street (drivers) side. In that general area you should see coming from the back the large diameter (thumb size) power cord that bends and goes up into the 5er’s 120 volt circuit breakers. If that is a solid wire with no square black box larger than a normal electrical junction box, you have no transfer switch. My transfer switch is black, about 3.5inches tall and 9 inches square. I have one for my inverter and a second one for my generator. They can be mounted on the storage area level floor or to its roof which is the floor deck of occupied space.
NHCelt wrote:Wondering if all Cameo’s have a transfer switch, or just units with generators? No genny in my 2010 Cameo, but I suppose they could have pre-wired the system?
If there is one, where would it be found in a 32 FWS…..something to look at based on these pictures!Thanks…Celt
Posted: 11:39 AM – Dec 28, 2013It was the transfer switch. I will post pictures later. It had caught fire as there is smoke residue all over the melted top side of the plastic box. We were very lucky the camper didn’t burn along with our barn. It got hot enough to melt several of the wires and the rest of them are very brittle and I figure I will have to cut about 10″ off of them when I install the new switch. I want to look into one that will allow me to add an inverter into the system. Any suggestions?In the mean time, I think I will just bypass the switch and leave the generator out of the system. Where do you find those fancy connectors?
Posted: 3:47 PM – Dec 28, 2013You should be able to use blue scotch loc wire nuts…Lowe’s and Home Depot carry an equivalent to splice two #6 wires together….Just make sure that you twist the two wires together first before you put on the wire nut….RichPosted: 4:31 PM – Dec 28, 2013ThanksPosted: 10:26 AM – Dec 29, 2013Another option for splicing 6ga wire is to use split nuts and rubberized electrical tape. The splice is much neater, the connection is super secure and it is easier to fit in small spaces.Posted: 10:19 AM – Dec 31, 2013Here are the promised pictures. I am researching what to put back in and I can Guarantee that is will not be another IOTA or whatever brand this thing was. For now, I have put some #6 wire nuts on the shore power / Camper line and I have left the generator out of the system.
Image no longer available. Deleted by ImageShack – Please Repost Image if possible with new methodI would like to add an inverter option into the set-up along with the generator.
Posted: 10:46 AM – Dec 31, 2013Scary looking photos. The good news for you is Iota is out of the switch business. We have a Progessive Dymanics transfer switch that has been working just fine for three years. PD is also the manufacturer for the inverter/charger.Posted: 10:48 AM – Dec 31, 2013Progressive Dynamics is the brand I am planning to go with.Posted: 10:00 PM – Dec 31, 2013Moo, I don’t want to be the “negative Nellie” here, but make sure that it was JUST the transfer switch that failed. I would trace back the burnt wires and confirm that nothing else is cooked, and also that it wasn’t something else that caused the switch to fail.Good luck with the repair.
Posted: 7:20 AM – Jan 01, 2014Good point. I had the fireplace running for 3 days straight before this and then after that, I had a portable heater plugged into the GFI outlet by the sink for 2 days. It is possible that this was too much for the wires. I will inspect the wires before I install a new one. I cut the burnt pieces off before installing the temporary caps and have had no issues yet. Everything except the microwave came back on and seems to be working fine. Unfortunately, we use the micro/convection oven often…….From the photos, it looks to me that the most fried central white wire holding buss came loose and twited just enough to touch the red next to it and start the arcs, then the white carried to the buss to the right. Most of the wire damage will be done at either end of the wire you see burnt in the transfer switch, sometimes going back a foot or more at each end before the wire and insulation are no longer crystalized or melted together. If there is an intermediate stop between the transfer switch and the 5er 120 volt outlet, you need to check each connection. The hidden ends may be at the main circuit breaker box, the sub-panel for the generator supported circuits, or the affected 120 volt outlet. It would not be a bad idea to take out the 5er’s power cord receptacle and check its 4 screw on contacts. You can reduce the work by focusing on the 120 volt outlets had something plugged into them at any time recently.Unfortunately increased resistance may melt insulation wherever the wires take a sharp bend. Sharp bends are in the slide’s outside bi-fold brackets, but could also be hidden anywhere.
Posted: 2:34 PM – Jan 20, 2014Well, I have looked everywhere I can see to try and find a bad spot or the likes. Nothing found. Is it possible that the GFI breaker malfunctioned and caused this? Also, I would like to replace the power cable from the shore power connection to the transfer switch, but I am unable to locate a source to purchase it from. Anybody know where to get the cable at?Posted: 3:14 PM – Jan 20, 2014What gauge are you needing? Here are a couple links that might help you. A good electrical supply store or Home Depot should have what you need by the foot so you don’t have to buy a whole roll. They also have 10 gauge at both places.Chip
Posted: 3:34 PM – Jan 20, 2014Here is another link for NMB romex wire by the foot.
Chip
https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-su … zpid=70164Posted: 3:35 PM – Jan 20, 2014Perfect, thanksPosted: 3:46 PM – Jan 20, 2014Are any Lifestyle owners having similar problems?Posted: 3:57 PM – Jan 20, 2014moo2613 wrote:Well, I have looked everywhere I can see to try and find a bad spot or the likes. Nothing found. Is it possible that the GFI breaker malfunctioned and caused this? Also, I would like to replace the power cable from the shore power connection to the transfer switch, but I am unable to locate a source to purchase it from. Anybody know where to get the cable at?Are you going to change the length of the shore power cable? That will determine what wire gauge to use.
Posted: 4:02 PM – Jan 20, 2014With 50 Amp service, you want to use 6 ga wire. 10 ga is used for 30 Amp service. The cable should be available from Home Depot or Lowes.Posted: 8:45 AM – Jan 21, 2014I could not find it at Home Depot or Lowes here in Texarkana. I do plan to go back with 6 ga.Posted: 10:06 AM – Jan 21, 2014I am glad to see that my Lifestyle came equipped with the Progressive Dynamics PD52 transfer switch!!Posted: 12:24 PM – Jan 21, 2014Here is a link to home depot where you can order a 50′ roll of stranded 6/3 WG. Have it shipped to the store.
Chip
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-50 … ificationsPosted: 12:29 PM – Jan 21, 2014Here is another link to get other lengths from Home Depot. Available in 25′ roll. Scroll down to stranded tword the bottom of the page.
Chip
http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfIma … 84b4a1.pdfPosted: 11:02 AM – Mar 09, 2014We just returned from 2 months in Texas (much warmer there than Indiana). On the return trip the TV alternator was constantly over charging. I was trying to consider the issue the entire return time. Once home, we set the trailer onto the bigfoot system and tried to open the slides. Nothing, absolutely nothing worked with 12 volt. I took the battery and desulphated/ charged it for 24 hours. I then returned the battery to the trailer and again there was absolutely no 12 volt power. I checked the system fuses but they seem fine. I assume the transfer box that you all have been discussing is for 120/ 240 volts only. Correct?
JohnPosted: 11:21 AM – Mar 09, 2014Check the battery to make sure it is good. The battery could have an internal short or open circuit. Most battery retailers can test the battery for you. You are correct about the transfer switch, that is for AC only.Posted: 2:25 PM – Mar 09, 2014bernie wrote:We just returned from 2 months in Texas (much warmer there than Indiana). On the return trip the TV alternator was constantly over charging. I was trying to consider the issue the entire return time. Once home, we set the trailer onto the bigfoot system and tried to open the slides. Nothing, absolutely nothing worked with 12 volt. I took the battery and desulphated/ charged it for 24 hours. I then returned the battery to the trailer and again there was absolutely no 12 volt power. I checked the system fuses but they seem fine. I assume the transfer box that you all have been discussing is for 120/ 240 volts only. Correct?
JohnIf your batteries were no good your Bigfoot would not work. The big foot power comes straight off of the batteries and is protected by it’s own 120 amp themal fuse. The 12 volt power for everything else is fuse protected by a large 80 amp resetable breaker. Mine is in the front storage compartment. Here is a picture of both fuses. I would test for 12 volts on both sides of the 80 amp breaker and if there is no power going out of the breaker then try to reset it using the push in button underneath it. Here is a link to the breaker.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/141120902895?lpid=82Chip
Posted: 9:16 PM – Mar 09, 2014Bernie.Here is another possibly. You didn’t accidentally turn off the main 12 volt disconnect key? The Bigfoot would still work but the rest of the 12 volt system would be dead. Just a thought.
Chip
Posted: 2:58 PM – Mar 13, 2014Thanks for your responses Zack and Chip!
I desulphated and recharged the battery. It took a charge. I will have it diagnosed to be sure it has no issues. I will also look into the 80 amp resettable breaker. Not sure when this will happen but it will be within a month. Again, thank you both.
john
and the heat pump thermostat seemed to turn on the front air unit, not the main room like it should 
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.