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CLOC-Admin.
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CLOC-AdminI have read that of the ‘big 3’ only Ford disconnects power to the 7 pin trailer plug when ignition is switched off. I have verified on our Chevy that indeed, power is at the 7 pin plug with the ignition off. I had the GM dealer install a solenoid to disconnect power when the key is off. I have verified that when the key is off, one side of the solenoid has no power, turning the ignition switch on, a audible click and power to both sides of the solenoid.Despite this, I still have power to the 7 pin plug with the ignition off. I asked the dealer if there was more than one power source to the 7 pin plug and indicated there was not. The solenoid wires connect to the electrical fuses/power block assembly on the drivers side, under the hood of our ’15 Silverado.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
Posted: 7:10 AM – Sep 04, 2015Just a guess.I would think that there would be a lead to the trailer coming from both the battery and the alternator. They would become one somewhere in the harness.
So, my guess is your guy picked the entirely wrong wire to the “solenoid” or the solenoid is placed too far forward in the truck. Try moving the solenoid all the way back to rear bumper/fender area where the feeds to you trailer hookup connect. This will require a longer lead from your switch to the solenoid, but a solenoid does not need much juice to operate properly, and you will be certain that you are switching the correct wire to the camper. If there isn’t one already, be sure to put a fuse in that long line to the rear. The fuse should be up front.
Posted: 7:16 AM – Sep 04, 2015One bit of warning. I have seen posted that any splicing of hookup wires can raise havoc with the truck computer (“trailer disconnected” warnings etc). So, once you have the correct wires for the solenoid, be sure to solder and waterproof any connections. Quick clips, squeeze connectors, and wire twists with tape may work for a while, but down the road not so well.Posted: 10:39 AM – Sep 04, 2015I’m curious, why do you not want power at the plug with the ignition off?Posted: 11:07 AM – Sep 04, 2015Runtrails wrote:I’m curious, why do you not want power at the plug with the ignition off?One reason is that if power goes one way, it goes the other as well without an isolation diode. Without that solenoid or diode, your camper 12 volt usage over a long weekend with no shore power could drain your truck battery.
Posted: 11:18 AM – Sep 04, 2015JohnD222 wrote:Runtrails wrote:I’m curious, why do you not want power at the plug with the ignition off?One reason is that if power goes one way, it goes the other as well without an isolation diode. Without that solenoid or diode, your camper 12 volt usage over a long weekend with no shore power could drain your truck battery.
John is correct – it is not so much of an issue with our Cameo (which has 4, 6 volt AGM batteries, and 190 watts of solar), but it is an issue with our truck camper, which has 2 low amperage group 24C 12 volt batteries and no solar. I have a concern with dropping battery voltage while the unit is stored.
I had the GM dealer install the solenoid, and they also installed a diode, I recall. Is a solenoid different than a battery isolator?
Posted: 11:21 AM – Sep 04, 2015That’s a good point John. Wouldn’t it be a easier, less costly and less prone to future problems to put an isolation diode between the RV battery and the 7 pin plug?
When we’re boondocking, even overnight I always disconnect the RV from the truck for the very reason you mention.Rick, it seems to me that a diode would be easier than a solenoid for any application.
Posted: 2:57 PM – Sep 04, 2015Runtrails wrote:That’s a good point John. Wouldn’t it be a easier, less costly and less prone to future problems to put an isolation diode between the RV battery and the 7 pin plug?
When we’re boondocking, even overnight I always disconnect the RV from the truck for the very reason you mention.Rick, it seems to me that a diode would be easier than a solenoid for any application.
Jim – I was charged for a diode and a solenoid, so I was curious how power was getting through to the plug. Like you, we almost always unhook the truck from the Cameo each night, but the truck and camper is one unit. I could unhook the camper plug, but awkward to get at, and if I forget to hook it up, I would have no brakes lights, running lights or signal lights visible from the rear, a potential dangerous situation.
i am prepared to take the truck back to the GM dealer who installed the unit, but thought I would appeal to the masses if they had any tips that would point to a potential power source.
Thanks, Rick
Posted: 5:44 PM – Sep 04, 2015rwb_wl wrote:Despite this, I still have power to the 7 pin plug with the ignition off.You’ve probably already figured this out, but if the ignition is off and you still have voltage at the plug, then it’s not coming from the alternator.
Your truck has two batteries connected in parallel, correct? Maybe the tech connected the solenoid BEFORE the parallel connection and only got one of the batteries.
I like John’s idea to locate the solenoid towards the back of the truck.
How about something like this: “PriorityStart! is an automatic computerized on/off switching system protecting battery voltage and starting power. If battery voltage drains below 11.7 volts when engine is off, it automatically DISCONNECTS the load. The battery voltage immediately recovers.”
http://www.prioritystart.com/12vpromax.php
Jim
Posted: 6:36 PM – Sep 04, 2015Thanks Jim. I like the Priority Start idea. It would have been less expensive for me to go that route, than the dealer solenoid install.It is conceivable that one of the 12 volt batteries is supplying power to the 7 pin plug. I don’t want to tamper with the power/fuse box under the hood, as that can trigger the security system for an attempted security breach and result in the truck not starting.
Rick
Posted: 7:06 PM – Sep 04, 2015Rick,I wouldn’t mess with that stuff either. Let us know how this all works out.
Jim
Posted: 10:33 PM – Sep 29, 2015Today, we took our truck back to the dealer who installed the disconnect solenoid. Apparently one of GM’s great ideas was to have two heavier gauge wires in the large fuse/circuit box under the hood. Both these wires were the same colour with the same colour stripe. The tech initially hooked up one wire, but it should have been the second (identical) one. Seems to work now. Although both wires are the same colour, they are in different modules within the fuse/circuit box.Should have no battery issues now with either the fifth wheel or the truck camper.
Rick
B.W.Gentry
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2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
Breckenridge, TX
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