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CLOC-AdminFinished down-sizing the I-Series Tank Monitor bezel so it will fit inside the switches panel.
I decided to make the button holes round with full radii so it might hold up better and moved the Power and Pump switches to the bottom.First op was to machine a block of aluminum..
Then cut the back-side
Finished new bezel..
Check the fit of the LCD Screen…
Next to the Original
Cut the label smaller on the laser….
All done, ready to install next week!
Edit:
If you look closely, I had the laser power set too high when I cut the label hole for the ON/OFF switch and it melted the plastic :(
I sent a message with photos to Tonya Adams at Tank-Tech and asked if I could buy a new label.
She liked what I was doing and is sending me a new one to re-cut at no charge.
(In keeping with my own policy that nothing is free, a donation has been sent to a charity )Here is the new label, she even gave me a separate Water Pump sticker to put where I wanted!
Thanks Tonya!!
Posted: 9:15 PM – Apr 27, 2018The only milled I-Series name plate in the whole world!Posted: 9:53 PM – Apr 27, 2018Alloy wrote:The only milled I-Series name plate in the whole world!If you, or anyone else here at the Member’s Only forums ever need something special like this, just ask.
No charge if I have the materials (I probably do, I own a large CNC Machine Shop and been doing this 40+ years)
This is more of a Hobby than a job these days, gives me something to do.
All I’d need is a pre-paid UPS shipping label.If you feel you must pay something, I’d ask to send an anonymous donation to a local children’s charity.
Posted: 10:25 PM – May 02, 2018A few more minor items made today, a bezel for the 12V Battery System Monitor, laser engraved from McMaster engraving plastic and a water tank to store distilled water for the Battery Watering System.
The Battery Monitor can monitor both incoming from the on-board charger or my truck -or- outgoing to the RV and 120VAC Inverter for the fridge by adding the dpdt switch.The idea behind the hose on the water tank is push the hose in so the intake is at the bottom of the tank to fill the batteries, then disconnect the battery end, pull the tank end to the top of the tank then use the squeeze ball to empty the hose back into the tank.
My thought on this is it’s probably not a good idea to leave it connected to the batteries so they can vent through the cap hose that stays attached.
(Edit: added the INTELI-Power indicator LED and override below the LCD display)
Posted: 12:56 AM – May 10, 2018Monitor Panel Before:
After
Update, added Aims
Posted: 5:12 AM – May 11, 2018If anyone with a 2010 era Cameo ever wants to replace the A/C’s, Carriage was nice enough to pre-wire a CAT5 cable from the wireless Carrier A/C ceiling hole and leave it in the wall behind the Coat Hanger/Mirror to the right of the entry door.The new Atwood’s are a huge step up from the Carrier units. Two of these 15K’s and the RV is like an Ice Box.
A big plus is each is only drawing 12 or so amps and the RV has mucho better climate control.
Turn these up 100% and you have either a 300sf+ Sauna or Freezer, your choice.
Two screws to remove the panel reveals the hole with the cable end.
This just again reminds me of just how well thought out Carriage was.
Before, with the coat hanger off
(those scratches from the screw were already there)
After
Posted: 2:34 PM – May 11, 2018Does the cat5 cable go to the living room AC?Posted: 2:57 PM – May 11, 2018DandK-Travelers wrote:Does the cat5 cable go to the living room AC?Yes, the CAT5 cable was laying loose when I removed the Carrier ceiling cover in the living room/kitchen area.
It took a while to find the other end, then I thought “where would I put it if I was building the RV?” and eyed the coat hanger panel.
I was happy to see it because I dreaded running a new cable to the exact wall they already put one.There’s two wood plugs that conceal the two screws that hold the Coat Hanger to the wall, I pulled them and looked behind and those two big holes were there with the cable end!
(The Bedroom already has a wall mounted thermostat, so that one was easy to replace.)
P.S.
Don’t tug too hard on the CAT5 cable ends, they aren’t tied to anything.Posted: 7:09 PM – Jun 02, 2018New GC2’s with watering pipes.
Aims Autoswitch Inverter / 4-stage charger. Auto isolated to tend batteries only when on shore power.
(Bigger than a breadbox)
100Amp Auto switch 12VDC Continuous Duty Power Supply. Runs RV when on shore power. Auto switches to Battery when shore is disconnected or 110VAC power outage. Grey box with 3-way switch is a continuous duty 110vac, DC control N/C relay with manual override, connected to a 60Amp breaker.
Posted: 9:11 AM – Jun 03, 2018You seem to know your electricity. Are you going to post a schematic wiring diagram?Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Posted: 1:24 PM – Jun 03, 2018Do you just the 2 batteries?Posted: 1:28 PM – Jun 03, 2018I also noticed your 60 amp breaker above the auto switch. I had a couple of those and found that they would trip below there rated amperage. I replace them.Posted: 12:45 AM – Jun 04, 2018DandK-Travelers wrote:Do you just the 2 batteries?Yes, just two. We always overnight in a hookup site and only use the batteries to run the fridge though the inverter and a few lights inside on long trip side-of-the-road pit-stops when the truck is not running.
For me, the RV batteries main purpose is to support the emergency brakes and for short usage in a power outage until I can fire up the generator.
When the RV is connected to the truck, the truck’s batteries and alternators keep things charged, although I will run a larger gauge cable to get more amps from the truck to the RV. As it is right now, <30Amps can get there at <5% voltage loss with factory wiring.
Changing it to 2 Gauge to the bed plug and 8 Gauge to the RV (12/4-10/2-8/1 Cable) will up the capacity to 80Amps with <2% loss in voltage.
Any more than that would require a separate plug just for 12vdc, but 80 Amps is enough for the inverter to run without using the RV’s batteries at all.Yes, that is a low-end 60Amp breaker, but since that circuit is only used to run 12vdc lights when on battery power and nothing else, it should be sufficient. Everything connected to it has its own properly rated fast blow fuse in the fuse box to the right.
If I have any issues I’ll replace it with a Bussman, thanks for the heads up!Posted: 2:20 PM – Jun 05, 2018Partimewages wrote:Are you going to post a schematic wiring diagram?Sure, I’ll draw something up in EagleCAD and post it as a PDF file, along with the power/thermal results from SPICE.
It’s not as complex as my photo shows, there’s a large wiring harness and a few other cables in the photo that are not used.
They’re leftover from the old Onan Generator system that used to be in this area.I’m a Mechanical/Electronic Engineer by trade.
This is more Electrical Engineering, but since the tools/parts used have the same functions (only larger), it seems to make sense to me.(Oh, and that orange 3-Gang Outlet extender in the photo shouldn’t be there. I was using the 3rd outlet to run a power drill while testing.)
Posted: 8:48 PM – Jun 05, 2018The auto switch for the power supply is a great idea. It is run through the 110vac N/C relay?…if the breaker ever becomes an issue a BlueSea 7184 is a drop in replacement.
Posted: 9:16 PM – Jun 05, 2018Alloy wrote:The auto switch for the power supply is a great idea. It is run through the 110vac N/C relay?…if the breaker ever becomes an issue a BlueSea 7184 is a drop in replacement.
Yes, as soon as the AC power drops, the relay de-energizes to N/C and the battery connects to the RV.
The relay is rated for continuous duty and has two N/C terminals, so I tied them together. (RIB01P30-S-NC)
(You can also get it with one N/O and one N/C, if need be. RIB01P30-S-NONC )And thanks for the suggestion on the BlueSea, I’ve used their battery products on my boats before, good products.
Posted: 11:23 PM – Jun 18, 2018Picking up the Cameo from VIP tomorrow.
On my way down there to drop it off, my brand new Reese 7-Pin Plug and Socket gave me troubles, so I bit the bullet and ordered a complete set of EZ Connector plugs.This probably belongs in the Towing Topics forum, so I’ll post up my complete review over there after I’m done documenting the job VIP Enterprises did.
And the Cell antennas have been relocated to the front using the old DTV fold down, 360 degree rotation mast.
I’m also going to install a new DTV Winegard antenna in a place so it wont interfere with the Travl’r Dishnet Sat dish.
(DW wants to see local news/weather wherever we are)Posted: 5:22 AM – Jun 23, 2018I was looking at your Aims auto inverter and wondering if you will remove your PowerMax charger since the Aims will charge and provide 110v power?Posted: 8:21 AM – Jun 23, 2018The PowerMax is set to constant 13.4vdc “Power Supply Only” mode and runs the RV’s vdc when on shore power. The charger mode is disabled so I get clean, constant voltage to the lights and other RV vdc things.When on shore Power, the batteries and the AIMS are isolated from the RV vdc side and AIMS only tends to the batteries with its 4-stage charger. It and the batteries do not supply anything to the RV side.
As soon as shore power is lost or disconnected, the batteries are automatically connected to the RV vdc side and the AIMS switches to Inverter mode for vac.
I’m an Engineer (eE&ME), and tend to make things sound much more complicated than they actually are. I need to make a schematic/PDF to show how it works.
The reason I did it this way is we are FullTimers and it was getting annoying when the 4-Stage charger would cycle through its stages, making the 12vdc lights vary in brightness.
I also wanted a way to supply vdc at >30 amps if the batteries ever fail so I can operate the slides and Bigfoot from vac only. A dedicated 4-Stage like the AIMS will not supply any vdc when on shore power unless the batteries are >10vdc.
The PowerMax doesn’t need any batteries to work, and there is a bypass switch to connect it to the batteries to get them back >10vdc, if need be.
Posted: 1:50 PM – Jun 23, 2018Thanks for the Explanation. I’ll better understand with a schematic, hopefully.B.W.Gentry
Owner/Admin
2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
Breckenridge, TX
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