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Unsafe Emergency Brake Switch connection?
https://carriage-lifestyle-owners.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=3849
Posted: 9:56 AM – May 24, 2018During the installation of a Titian/Kodiak braking system, something very alarming (to me) occurred.While working on something unrelated to the brakes, the 30 AMP fuse on the RV side of the circuit between the Truck and the 12V feed to the RV was shorted and blown.
(The truck was not connected to the RV)
I made note to replace it, and kept working.A while later, it was time to test the hydraulic controller and we pulled the Emergency Cable to activate the RV’s Emergency Brakes.
Nothing happened. No pump – nothing.After checking continuity of all the wiring, everything looked good, but no power was getting to the pump.
I then replaced the blown fuse, and everything started working.
Instead of being relieved at finding the problem, I had “Danger, Will Robinson!!!” alarms going off in my mind.Is this the way all RV’s are wired, or is just mine wrong like this?
God forbid, if the RV ever became disconnected from the truck and ripped out the cable between the two, that fuse is going to get shorted and blown, making the Emergency Brakes useless.
Of course a new, separate line going from the RV Batteries directly to the controller with a slow-blow fuse and a blown fuse indicator LED is going in next, but my question:Is this the way all RV’s are wired, or did the previous owner change something?
Posted: 1:33 PM – May 25, 2018From what you describe it is how RV trailers are done. Power (black wire) from the battery runs through a fuse or min breaker to the breakaway switch from the breakaway to the (blue wire) brakes.As part of our pre-trip we test the brakes by hand with the controller in the truck and we pull the cable out of the breakaway switch both times performing a tug test with the truck.
I’ve had the plastic switches break so I use Tekonsha switches with a bass pin.
http://www.tekonsha.com/products/brake- … Xl2OrN8aQ=Posted: 1:50 PM – May 25, 2018OK, well I’m not good with the way it’s done and I think everyone should think twice about it and consider adding a dedicated line between the Brake Controller directly to the RV’s batteries, unless using an EZ Trailer Wiring Connector Kit which will not “tear out” of the socket under sideways disconnect.I’m shocked that a blown fuse from the +12V power from the pulling rig would disable the RV’s Emergency Braking system and allow a 16,000# vehicle go whatever it wants.
That fuse should be solely for the truck’s 12V power supply to the RV and have nothing to do with the RV’s E-Brake.With a standard 7-Pin, if it did ever need to work and the plug is not exactly in-line with the disconnection direction, that cable will rip out and short – causing the brakes to fail to deploy.
(Not on my rig anymore!)Posted: 2:28 PM – May 25, 2018There needs to be power to the breakaway switch.Having an unprotected (no fuse) wire connected from the battery to the breakaway poses a greater threat than a 5th wheel hitch that the chances of it disengaging are so little that the government has determined safety chains are not required.
All ball mounts hitches require chains. In this case the chains would have to separate for the trailer to go off by itself.
Posted: 4:07 PM – May 25, 2018Alloy wrote:There needs to be power to the breakaway switch.Having an unprotected (no fuse) wire connected from the battery to the breakaway poses a greater threat than a 5th wheel hitch that the chances of it disengaging are so little that the government has determined safety chains are not required.
All ball mounts hitches require chains. In this case the chains would have to separate for the trailer to go off by itself.
TimCar wrote:Of course a new, separate line going from the RV Batteries directly to the controller with a slow-blow fuse and a blown fuse indicator LED is going in next,Fusing is required.
My issue is I want to know nothing but a problem with the controller can ever blow it.
I just fail to see any reason to have anything else on that circuit.I have Cross Chains on my 5th and wouldn’t tow without them. The Law may not require them, but I do.
Guess I’m overly concerned about safety, but I do sleep well at night. (in the day a lot too!)Posted: 6:52 PM – May 25, 2018TimCar wrote:Alloy wrote:There needs to be power to the breakaway switch.Having an unprotected (no fuse) wire connected from the battery to the breakaway poses a greater threat than a 5th wheel hitch that the chances of it disengaging are so little that the government has determined safety chains are not required.
All ball mounts hitches require chains. In this case the chains would have to separate for the trailer to go off by itself.
TimCar wrote:Of course a new, separate line going from the RV Batteries directly to the controller with a slow-blow fuse and a blown fuse indicator LED is going in next,Fusing is required.
My issue is I want to know nothing but a problem with the controller can ever blow it.
I just fail to see any reason to have anything else on that circuit.I have Cross Chains on my 5th and wouldn’t tow without them. The Law may not require them, but I do.
Guess I’m overly concerned about safety, but I do sleep well at night. (in the day a lot too!)How do you have your chains attached?
Posted: 8:26 PM – May 25, 2018I use an Andersen Ultimate Hitch, so it’s actually legally considered a Gooseneck and Safety Chains are required in most states.Posted: 3:40 PM – Jun 09, 2018Tim does have a valid point – how do know there is power to the brakeaway switch? The truth is we don’t know for sure unless you pull it. I have always wondered why there isn’t a small green led on the switch to let use know in a quick look all is well. You see green and it’s all good.Posted: 3:42 PM – Jun 09, 2018TimCar wrote:I use an Andersen Ultimate Hitch, so it’s actually legally considered a Gooseneck and Safety Chains are required in most states.Actually, it s a ball and cup hitch. Safety chains are required on that type of hitch since before trailers had brakes. Laws were never updated.
B.W.Gentry
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2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
Breckenridge, TX
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