- This topic has 13 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 1 year, 1 month ago by
ramseyjack.
ramseyjack.- Topic
- CLOC-Admin
Has anyone located a source for the plastic waste tank covers. Mine is a two piece unit, small cover around valve and discharge and then the large square shaped cover that attached to the bottom of the framework? TIA for any information you may have.
B.W.Gentry
Owner/Admin
2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
Breckenridge, TX
CLOC-Admin- Replies
- fastball
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I am also looking for the cover for my 2014 LS36FW. only need the access cover for the valves but will take it all if I have to. I have been searching for a while with no success.
fastball- Topics - 2
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2014 ls36fw. I am looking for the holding tank cover. Can anyone suggest a source or have any info to identify the part manufacturer? Thanks
ramseyjack- Topics - 30
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ABS plastic 36×24 actually 20 would work
I see no answers to this question. Looks like a 36 X 22 piece off molded plastic with a ton of screws.
I see Ameri-Kart was the original manufacturer for my grey tank
H+ 525 44w x 64l x 8.5depth with an S Drain.
I think I found some ABS plastic sheet and will just form it into a cover.
Now what I choose to do with the Valterra manual valves, and use either the Valterra’s, or the add on the Barkers.
I am still doing research.
Looks like tight clearance, but since I have to rebuild the cover anway, might as well just order the 48” sheet of ABS
ramseyjack- Topics - 30
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pics
ramseyjack- Topics - 30
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pics2 won’t let me upload with the same had to start over…
ramseyjack- Topics - 30
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too much research GRIN, slight leak from the grey tank
I see the old drainmaster valves are available… hmm..
Have to pull the tank and have it repaired probably…
H+ 525 44w x 64l x 8.5depth with an S Drain. more work and calls on Monday.
On a positive note all freshwater working well and all faucets plugged up with Texas calcium.
Currently soaking in 1 to 5 dilution of muriatic acid/water to clean up the calcium…
JohnD222- Topics - 8
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Fair bit of work you have cut out for yourself Jack.
will be interesting to see where crack is. Did it likely originate from poor work during previous install of electric valves, or is it elsewhere? I recall a tank issue recall ages ago, but don’t recall if it was over leaks or incorrect size, or both.
one thing is certain, once a leak in Plastic starts, it will only get worse with time and especially with travel.
JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)ramseyjack- Topics - 30
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I have to build the “tank cover” a piece of ABS 24 x 36 that was removed and not replaced, when they pulled the drainmaster electric valves and put in the manual valterra’s, so might just pull the whole ABS cover off. (easier to make it on the bench rather than upside down) BUT would prefer to fix this tank without pulling it.
The leak appears to be at the tank drain and I am certain it was from the PO not having the long pipe to the hose strapped up and on the trip from Texas it stressed. It had been “patched” once, I am sure right before selling it to me.
Has been dry for over a year, I put water in the tank and all plumbing came up fine besides 15 yrs of hard water calcium plugging everything up, but 5 to 1 dilution of muriatic acid and water has the sprayers working just fine.then found the leak.
Has anyone successfully repaired a huge 15 yr old tank in the rig or is my best bet to pull the tank 100% clean it up and get to a pro that can do their “magic”.
It’s BIG. The tank is 44in x 64in x 8.5in that is 23,936 cubic inches, Which is 103 gallons.
I found the ABS piece at amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Duco-Plastic-…F5AURRF9M&th=1
Any experience would be helpful. I will contact Ameri-Kart on Monday to ask if they have the tank mold, but I am not expecting them to be able to pop one out.
Tanks are well supported, both by the edges and 3 straps across the length of the tanks. Carriage did a good job on this one, I have heard not always the case on their tanks.
not at a place I can shrink better pictures, but have them posted elsewhere. will shrink them and get them post here when I have access
JohnD222- Topics - 8
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I am placing my age, but I used an electric abs welding tool 45 years ago in Colorado building a series of leach tanks for a gold mining operation.
I think it fed hot abs onto joints much like a glue gun does for fabrics today, but thinner abs rods. Just cleaned the parts to be joined, held them in place with pliers or c clamps and welded away. Might be better for you purpose to heat up the tank a bit and flow the heated rod onto the joint – like a soldering gun. Either way, never had one joint leak and the leach tank setup was inside a box truck that hauled the setup all over.
good luck
JohnD222
Based in Florida except summer
2013 36FWS Lifestyle (our great 2010 Cameo 36FWS has happy owners)morgan1213- Topics - 2
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JohnD222 is right, You can use a soldering iron and black plastic zip ties for filler rods. I have done it and its very strong!!!
ramseyjack- Topics - 30
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Progress on the grey tank.
Visited the manufacturer of the auto dump valves (Drain Master in Hollister CA) and will order 2 new style valves and the harness. Pulling the cables going to be a small challenge, but workable. Also will order the Drainmaster hose that came originally with the coach. NICE feature already has a built in holder tube.
Decided to weld the grey tank in the coach, and got the 80w soldering iron with the spade attachment.
I should have taken more pics but too hard to shrink and upload anyway. Long crack, probably 2.5in
Ground off the white plastic stuff from the PO and cleanse with mineral spirits and then with acetone.
Ordered ground ABS from Manitoba, and mixed it with acetone to make a goop.
Started welding with the iron and added quite a bit of material to the area of the tank. Really heated it up so hopefully closed up the crack. Use 1 whole abs stick and let it cool.
Then covered with the ABS-Acetone goop, let dry a bit and added 2 pieces of aluminum screen mesh and covered with more goop.
Found a piece of ½ in plastic pipe about 3in long in the grey tank but pretty clean considering it’s age. Empty.
Not the prettiest but will add the valves and test next weekend.
Thanks,
Jack
ramseyjack- Topics - 30
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Not difficult, just careful and tedious. This was 100% caused by a LONG unsupported drain tube running about 4ft to the rear, and gravity caused the section on the side of the drain fitting to flex in. it was pretty thin in that area. The acetone really showed how thin the abs was to the left. I am going to replace the long sloping to the rear drain with the camloc fitting from Drain Master, and strap it to the chassis. should resolve any future cracks.. SURE..GRIN
ramseyjack- Topics - 30
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2009 36Max1 Tank Cover V1
I forgot to upload these, did it in the cold and dark the second week of Janurary. WAY to rushed, but worried about freezing temps in Quartzsite with exposed tanks, and of course had welded the black tank.
Made the cover out of black Coroplast 24 x 36 and cut it I think to 28 in long and 24 wide.
The big ABS tank cover bulges down a LOT in that area so took a 36in piece of tile edging (had a little L piece to keep it stiff) and started screwing through the layers of Coroplast and ABS. Had to use self tappers (SHORT ONES) to get through the ABS and clear the tank. Stuffed fiberglass between the tank and Coroplast. Ran out of the tile edging so improvised with plumbers tape for the edge trim.It worked and got a few K miles out of it so far. I will pull down the whole tank cover (NOT looking forward to this), not difficult, but aligning up all the holes to put it back together, is a 2 person job. I can re-do the Coroplast and get proper trim for the job.
This is to do the Garnet Instruments Tank sensors. I will measure the needed sensors and let everyone know.
BTW does anyone know where these sensors are located? My 36Max1 has big tanks. I think a 32 gal black and a 72 gal gray. Black forward and Gray rear.
fastball
JohnD222
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