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- I was looking the docs on the forum and I noticed information on the Watts water regulator. Do I have one of these installed on our 5th wheel and if so where is it and can it be adjusted?Posted: 1:10 PM – Oct 21, 2016Unlikely. The watts use a quality regulator to replace the very, very, plugging-up prone one from the factory, or a non-existant one from the factory.
If your city water fill has three screens, you probably have the cheap problem prone one. If it has two screws, there is probably no regulator.
Some units had/have whole house filters that get plugged up in 3-6 months depending upon how clean and clear incoming water is. Even with that filter being clean and full flowing, minerals can accumulate at each faucet in its aerator. Just like a house aerator and easy to clean or replace, but not all threads are the same. The first time you remove you might need pliers, but it should be screwed back in only hand tight and then it will be easy next time (every 3-6 months depending upon use and water quality.
Take the head off the outside shower. Turn on both faucets. If you have good pressure there, the trouble is in the aerators. Try just the hot, then just the cold at that shower without the head. If they don’t both have good pressure, you might have one or more of the three by-pass valves near the hot water heater only partially open/ closed. The hot can be a bit lower pressure because it must travel almost 40 feet further to get to the heater and back, but not much.
For more info, use the search tool on this forum, or just scroll through postings in this fresh water topic.
Posted: 8:22 PM – Oct 21, 2016What does the by-pass valves look like and where exactly would it be?Posted: 9:06 PM – Oct 21, 2016Crawl under the kitchen sink. They are 3 simple shut off valves. But must be open or closed completely. Read up on it. Do not change existing settings without knowing what you are doing. You can inadvertently shut off water to the hot water heater and burn out the elements.Posted: 6:58 AM – Oct 22, 2016There are 3 shut-off valves, 1 hot, 1 cold and 1 to the dishwasher. They are all open fully. How do the values in the kitchen affect the water pressure in the rest of the coach?Posted: 7:40 AM – Oct 22, 2016Look closer to the hot water heater. There are 3 more. They may be partially obscured by a thin wood panel that covers the heater.I just noticed that this 5et was built in 2015. f this coach was new when you bought it and this low pressure was not an issue initially, those valves probably are not your problem UNLESS it was winterized last winter. Some/most winterizations empty the hot water tank and either fill the water lines with antifreeze or blow them out with air. This is when the 3 by-pass valves are used. If it was winterized and the problem surfaced first time you used it after storage, one or more of those valves is likely not fully open or fully closed. Even if this is the case, it should affect (reduce) hot water pressure only, not cold. This would be the case at every water outlet. But when mixing for warm water, pressure should be OK, but the knob would need to be turned further to hot than it used to be.
Any factory water pressure regulator is before the 12 volt pump that supplies water when not hooked up. Try disconnecting or turning off shore water. Turn on your pump. Try water pressure now. Pump pressure should be a bit below city water pressure, but is sometimes just as good as poor campground pressure – there are lots of campgrounds with low pressure, partly during shower times..
If pressure is ok on pump, but not shore, it is the factory pressure regulator. If bad on both, check your aerators for minerals or debris.
Posted: 9:14 AM – Oct 22, 2016Could you take a picture of the water pressure regulator so that I know what I am suppose to be looking for? The hot water pressure is alot lower than the cold through out the coach. This unit was winterized at the dealer but we do not know if there was a problem before it was winterized. We bought it 4 weeks ago and can only go by what we are experiencing now. We had great water pressure in our motorhome at the same rv park that we are in now.Posted: 9:48 AM – Oct 22, 2016If you have good cold pressure, it is not the pressure regulator. The best way to tell is take off the outside shower head. When on shore water, if you get a blast of cold water when you turn it on and it stays at strong flow, it is not the pressure regulator. You should get the same with the pump on and shore water off. The pump is not impacted by the pressure valve on the 5er. That pressure valve is in the utility closet where you hook up your water hose.A little difference between hot and cold is to be expected, but not a lot. A “lot” of difference points to those 3 by-pass valves by the hot water heater.
A little less pressure from the pump versus city water is to be expected, but not a lot unless the campground is very poor – that is site specific!!! How is the water pressure right at the campground spigot??? A lot of them have very poor one way check valves that greatly reduce the pressure!
Go to this page on camping world site:
http://m.campingworld.com/search/?Ntt=w … y=1&Ntpc=1
The $12.59 inlet has no pressure regulator.
The one on sale for $31.73 (was $43.99) “pressure reducing” does. The is a similar looking recessed” model for $11.99 that does not.
All of these have one way check valves that can get “reduced” by mineral content or debris in the incoming water. If partially plugged, this will reduce water pressure too.
In the plumbing section of Lowes etc you can buy a double ended female garden hose adapter for about $7. You can screw one end onto the outside shower hose and one end onto the hose from campground that normally feeds the 5er. This bypasses the one way valve in the utility closet and back feeds the entire system. Turn on water at camp spigot, turn on both hot and cold water at outside shower. System is now pressurized and there is no 5et back flow or pressure regulator in the loop. Try 5er pressures inside. If not better, there is nothing wrong with the parts shown on the camping world page referenced above.
Do not leave it hooked up this WY. A properly functioning back flow preventer is a good thing.
Check shore water pressure at the spigot again. Be sure it is strong at outset and stays strong.
Posted: 9:53 AM – Oct 22, 2016Now, if it is only hot water that is the problem:Posted: 10:32 AM – Oct 22, 2016Would I still have a by-pass value if I have a tankless water heater??Posted: 10:45 AM – Oct 22, 2016I do not know.If the heater can be drained, I would say you do.
You might try a forum search for:
+on +demand +hot +waterOr Google like I did but insert on demand
Posted: 12:14 PM – Oct 22, 2016From what I can tell, the problem is low hot water pressure from a tankless water heater. Cold water is fine. Is that correct? If so, then it may be the bypass valves under the sink as suhhested (it’s one valve on the hot, one on the cold and one in between – these are used to bypass the hot water heater for winterizing). But if you have a tankless water heater, that may be the source of the problem.
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