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CLOC-AdminJust spent the weekend in MN at a county fairgrounds, hooked up to 50amp service. Weather was a bit chilly, lows in the 30’s and highs in the 40’s. So we used the heat pump on our 2012 F37RSQ quite a bit to take the chill off, and also used the fireplace heater when we were in the living room watching TV. The circuit breaker tripped about 3 times: once when we tried to run the heat pump, TV and fireplace at the same time, once with just the TV and heat pump going, and another time with the TV and fireplace going. Is this normal?
I realize that there are some background electric devices counting up too (12 cubic foot frig, a few lights, electric hot water heater, antenna booster, battery charger), but does this usage exceed 50 amps? Or could it have been due in any part to the 50 amp service? The breaker for the RV tripped, not the one at the electric box outside. Thanks in advance.
PigdocPosted: 9:06 PM – May 05, 2013Never had that problem in mine. I have run all of that and more. Did you check the voltage at the plug?Posted: 10:46 PM – May 05, 2013How full was the fairgrounds? I’d look to over/under voltage at the park if it’s not happened elsewhere before. One fairground we stayed in had several hundred sites and the power was too high when we were one of the only campers.Posted: 7:43 AM – May 06, 2013Comeupwithsomething wrote:How full was the fairgrounds? I’d look to over/under voltage at the park if it’s not happened elsewhere before. One fairground we stayed in had several hundred sites and the power was too high when we were one of the only campers.That is why I always plug my tester in before I plug my trailer.
Posted: 8:55 AM – May 06, 2013rvinsant wrote:Comeupwithsomething wrote:How full was the fairgrounds? I’d look to over/under voltage at the park if it’s not happened elsewhere before. One fairground we stayed in had several hundred sites and the power was too high when we were one of the only campers.That is why I always plug my tester in before I plug my trailer.
X2, I never plug in until I check the shore power with my multi meter.
Posted: 11:06 AM – May 06, 2013I did not test the power at the 50 amp plug in. Being naive about this topic, how should I test the plug-in (and use what)? What should I expect? Thanks in advance.
PigdocPosted: 11:31 AM – May 06, 2013There are others much more knowledgeable that I that will likely give better instruction on how to go about the testing.Just wanted to chime in to say that we keep a cheap volt meter plugged in to an outlet in the kitchen so I can keep an eye on the broad picture. We also have a surge suppressor as insurance.
Posted: 11:36 AM – May 06, 2013We installed one of these: http://tweetys.com/electrical-managemen … re-50.aspx. Many RVers do. Consider this to automatically protect your RV. This and a water pressure regulator were MUSTS for me. I also put in a water filtration system that I find very valuable: http://c3finallyfree.blogspot.com/2011/ … pdate.html. These are 3 mods I think some folks might appreciate to protect their expensive assets.Posted: 3:25 PM – May 06, 2013pigdoc wrote:I did not test the power at the 50 amp plug in. Being naive about this topic, how should I test the plug-in (and use what)? What should I expect? Thanks in advance.
PigdocHere is a video on youtube that will show you how to test shore power.
You should always test the shore power even if you have a protection system.Posted: 6:27 PM – May 06, 2013Had the problem last year with the Heat Pump breaker. Attributed it to poor voltage at the post. If you notice the A/C and HP have two different breakers. Why I do not know. I had ordered spare breakers, but after arriving at another CG where I frequent and knew their posts were good I noted that I never had the problem again.Posted: 12:33 AM – May 07, 2013falconhunter wrote:pigdoc wrote:I did not test the power at the 50 amp plug in. Being naive about this topic, how should I test the plug-in (and use what)? What should I expect? Thanks in advance.
PigdocHere is a video on youtube that will show you how to test shore power.
You should always test the shore power even if you have a protection system.Falcon,
I’m not sure I understand why anyone would check if one has a system. I just plug in. No worries at all. I’m so comfortable with the system that I know if power goes into 5W, it’s proper power. If it’s not right, system won’t allow power through. If it spikes or dips, I’m protected. My digital readout gives power input on each 50a leg. It tells me if I’m properly grounded and everything. The only reason I can fathom testing with a system is prior to pulling in so you don’t waste time setting up. I’m not trying to be combative. I promise. I just want to know what I’m missing and if I wasted money or should worry. Thanks buddy.
Posted: 8:47 AM – May 07, 2013Monty wrote:falconhunter wrote:pigdoc wrote:I did not test the power at the 50 amp plug in. Being naive about this topic, how should I test the plug-in (and use what)? What should I expect? Thanks in advance.
PigdocHere is a video on youtube that will show you how to test shore power.
You should always test the shore power even if you have a protection system.Falcon,
I’m not sure I understand why anyone would check if one has a system. I just plug in. No worries at all. I’m so comfortable with the system that I know if power goes into 5W, it’s proper power. If it’s not right, system won’t allow power through. If it spikes or dips, I’m protected. My digital readout gives power input on each 50a leg. It tells me if I’m properly grounded and everything. The only reason I can fathom testing with a system is prior to pulling in so you don’t waste time setting up. I’m not trying to be combative. I promise. I just want to know what I’m missing and if I wasted money or should worry. Thanks buddy.
Yes, the main reason is not to waste time setting up. It takes less than 1 minute to check with a multi meter. If there is a problem why take the risk of plugging anything in.
Posted: 2:53 PM – May 07, 2013You should always test the shore power even if you have a protection system.[/quote]Falcon,
I’m not sure I understand why anyone would check if one has a system. I just plug in. No worries at all. I’m so comfortable with the system that I know if power goes into 5W, it’s proper power. If it’s not right, system won’t allow power through. If it spikes or dips, I’m protected. My digital readout gives power input on each 50a leg. It tells me if I’m properly grounded and everything. The only reason I can fathom testing with a system is prior to pulling in so you don’t waste time setting up. I’m not trying to be combative. I promise. I just want to know what I’m missing and if I wasted money or should worry. Thanks buddy.[/quote]
Yes, the main reason is not to waste time setting up. It takes less than 1 minute to check with a multi meter. If there is a problem why take the risk of plugging anything in.[/quote]That is why I use my tester
Image no longer available. Deleted by ImageShack – Please Repost Image if possible with new methodfound the design on the web somewhere. It is idiot proof, which I need some days.
Seems like there are more of them days lately.Posted: 4:08 PM – May 07, 2013I like your tester. That is a fantastic idea but I prefer to use my multi meter, which is also idiot proof and can do the same thing as the tester at a fraction of the cost. It’s compact and I can also use my meter for a variety of other things from troubleshooting 12 volt systems to checking continuity and many more things.Chip
Posted: 9:32 PM – May 07, 2013falconhunter wrote:I like your tester. That is a fantastic idea but I prefer to use my multi meter, which is also idiot proof and can do the same thing as the tester at a fraction of the cost. It’s compact and I can also use my meter for a variety of other things from troubleshooting 12 volt systems to checking continuity and many more things.Chip
I have a multimeter also, and I know how to use it. Truth be told, I just like gadgets too much. Must come from being a construction equipment mechanic for forty years.
Posted: 9:38 PM – May 07, 2013Gotta love the Gadgets! I too was in construction for almost 40 years.
ChipPosted: 12:39 PM – May 08, 2013When I had the problem with mine we had set up camp during the week and all was fine. When the week-end came, and additional campers came in that is when we had our problem. So the point is the post might check out okay at the time of hook-up but a problem could develop later. As a note I do have a hard wired Progressive EMS/Surge in my Carriage.Posted: 10:51 PM – May 08, 2013the first thing we do in plug in the progressive surge box, 30 or 50. There is some wait time while the progressive thinks things over. Checking line voltage, L-1, L-2, 60 cy. and Errors and codes. That is a test of the park systems. Should things change, The progressive continues to work during our stay. A meter is also needed to check so many other electric things that go wrong.
BobPosted: 11:15 AM – May 12, 2013Thought I’d add what an EMS does for folks who may be reading this. I know some won’t find a need for an EMS, but as someone who lost a whole house-load of appliances after lightening struck our house and from reading other’s experiences, I found the need for this insurance necessary. Sort of like my TST tire pressure monitoring and my water pressure regulator, some things I can’t imagine being without for my peace of mind and protection of my very expensive investment. Since I’ve gotten the EMS, I’ve been protected from multiple spikes and an open ground. These I know for sure. Again, there are few things I’ll push, but this is one of them.1. High/Low Voltage Protection – Whenever AC power falls below 104 volts, or rises above 132 volts, the EMS automatically shuts down power to the RV. The EMS will monitor the power and once the AC power rises above 104
volts, or drops below the 132 volt level, the time delay indicator flashes for the preset time and then automatically restores power to the RV.
2. Time Delay for A/C Compressor – If AC power is interrupted, or the EMS detects a fault condition, the built in time delay is activated. There are two settings on the EMS: one is 136 seconds (02:16), and the other is 15 seconds. Consult your air conditioner manual to see if it has a time delay built in. If so, use the 15 second delay, if not; use the 136-second delay. The factory setting is 15 seconds.
3. 5 Mode Surge Protection – This feature provides full surge protection L-N, L-N, L-G, L-L and N-G. Total Joule rating is
3,580 and 88,000A surge current. Response time of <1 nano second. Surge Indicator In the event of a power surge and the surge protector circuit is damaged within the EMS, L-N or L-G, the digital display error code will read E-10. This indicates that the EMS needs to be serviced.
4. Reverse Polarity Protection – If AC power is a reverse polarity condition, the EMS will not allow power to the RV and the error code will read E1. Open Neutral Protection If AC power has an open neutral condition, the display will not light, and the EMS will not allow power to the RV.
5. Open Ground Protection – If AC power has an open ground condition, the EMS will read an error code of E2, and power
will not be allowed to the RV.
6. AC Frequency Protection – If AC power frequency deviates plus/minus 9 hertz from 60 cycles per second, the EMS will shut down AC power. An Error Code of E7 will be displayed when the frequency is high; and an Error Code of E8 will be displayed when frequency is low.
7. Accidental 240V Protection – If 240 volts is detected when plugging into AC power, the EMS will NOT allow power to the RV. If this condition occurs while power is applied to the RV, the EMS shuts off power instantly. The display will read the voltage and E-3 for the error.Remote Display – Continuously scrolls the AC power information, including voltage, current, frequency, error codes and previous errors. Each reading is displayed for two (2) seconds.Posted: 3:08 PM – May 12, 2013We are using Surge Guard Voltage Regulator. It continuously monitor line voltage conditions and use a special transformer to increase the incoming voltage to an acceptable level when incoming line voltage is low enough to cause damage to RV air conditioners, refrigerators and other electrical accessories. Seamlessly switches between two modes of operation:
Boost Mode-raises output voltage by 10% if incoming line voltage is between 95 Volts to 110 Volts. Bypass Mode-passes input voltage directly to the output when incoming line voltage is above 110 Volts or below 95 Volts
The LED Status/Fault Indicator Panel shows line conditions and voltage status when we plug it in to shore power. The problems you can have with power can happen after you are powered up not just at the beginning. This system tells us the condition when we plug in and monitors it while we are using it and can make adjustments as needed.Traveler wrote:We are using Surge Guard Voltage Regulator.X2
Posted: 9:50 AM – Jul 12, 2013I have had that problem a couple of times. Either the 13.500 a/c breaker would trip or the Progressive EMS would shut down the electric. There is basically one cause that I found in both cases. The pole voltage is low. We even tried a 30 A cord. The EMS showed one leg of the 50A very low and the votage to a 120 outlet was about 107. That isn’t going to support the A/C. Don’t forget your lights are 12V so that will not have a big affect on the a/c voltage. I strongly suggest you purchase not only a surge protector but a surge/ems so you don’t blow your RV’s electrical system or compressors.B.W.Gentry
Owner/Admin
2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
Breckenridge, TX
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