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CLOC-AdminActually, a boat load of questions.Our water pressure stinks. It’s not the park we’re at, it has been consistent for the last few stops. Our trailer has the built in regulator, does anyone know what it is set to? Is there a way to adjust it? I not, I guess I would have to bypass/replace it. Also, what is the max safe pressure for the trailer? Is there a way to check the pressure inline, to see where the loss is happening?
The pressure appears to be about the same when on city water or the pump. I know that the regulator doesn’t affect the pump, but I’d like a little better pressure most of the time. I’ll deal with a lower pressure when using the pump if I have to.
Thanks,
CliffPosted: 9:21 PM – Feb 11, 2014From your post it sounds like it has gotten worse. Do you have the built-in water filter? It’s possible that the filter is getting clogged. Also, if you are using the B2 filter, it will restrict the flow to about 1.5 gpm. Switching to the B3 filter allows flows of about 2.5gpm. You could put the bypass plug in the filter housing and see what happens with no filter in place.Posted: 11:51 PM – Feb 11, 2014No built in filter, and I tried removing the outside one. No change.Posted: 2:34 AM – Feb 12, 2014Cliff,See answers embedded in your text below.
papacliff wrote:Actually, a boat load of questions.Our water pressure stinks. It’s not the park we’re at, it has been consistent for the last few stops. Our trailer has the built in regulator, does anyone know what it is set to?
The pressure regulator is built into the female fitting that you screw your hose into. Is can be removed or replaced, but not adjusted. ( 3 screws on the outside, and a pex clamp on the inside. Better buy a short piece of 1/2 inch pex pipe, and replace the pex clamp at both ends.) The reason Cliff and others have gone to large brass after market adjustable ones is that the factory one does not deal with volume very well. It can also clog up because of the small orifice. The factory pressure regulator that your hose screws into does NOT affect water pressure from the 12 volt pump. The pump has its own regulator. If you have the same bad pressure from both sources, you probably picked up some sand or grit at one stop, and it partially plugged the screw in aerators at each faucet, and the shower heads in and out. The aerators unscrew and can in most cases be cleaned, or just replaced. I would clean/replace the aerators first! You will see lots of difference if you remove an aerator, but the un-directed water flow can make a mess.Is there a way to adjust it?
NoIf not, I guess I would have to bypass/replace it.
YesAlso, what is the max safe pressure for the trailer?
45 ton55 psi.Is there a way to check the pressure inline, to see where the loss is happening?
Unscrew an aerator at the faucet, screw in an adapter, screw on a pressure gauge. At shower head, screw off head, screw in adapter, screw on a pressure gauge. The pressure gauge can screw directly onto the campground source and the hose. Try both options because if hoses have ruptured internally (sometimes but not always obvious by a bulge) it can restrict flow.The pressure appears to be about the same when on city water or the pump. I know that the regulator doesn’t affect the pump, but I’d like a little better pressure most of the time. I’ll deal with a lower pressure when using the pump if I have to.
You should NOT have low water pressure on the 12 volt pump unless you open more than one fitting at a time.PS, Many campground have cheap screw on back flow preventers that have malfunctioned and dramatically reduce flow.
Thanks,
CliffPosted: 10:21 AM – Feb 12, 2014JohnD, thanks for the comprehensive reply. I’ll check the aerators, but here’s yet another question.The city water and pump output have to “meet” somewhere. Does the city water pass through the pump passively, or is there a 3 way connection? My thought is that the blockage could be at that point. Somebody mentioned the backflow preventer in a different post, could that be it?
Of all the home repairs I’ve done, the one I hate is plumbing.
Cliff
Posted: 4:18 PM – Feb 12, 2014Cliff, while this isn’t a fix for you, I got tired of pulling into the campground and attaching the run of the mill water pressure regulator. I read a post from someone who purchased an adjustable regulator with a gauge (mine is oil filled, about $80 on line), and I changed the setting (very easy to do) from 45 to 50 psi. Made all the difference in the world! Our shower works great now. Plus I can visually see what the city or campground water pressure actually is at the head!Dan
Posted: 5:48 PM – Feb 12, 2014Cliff, see belowpapacliff wrote:….I’ll check the aerators, but here’s yet another question.The city water and pump output have to “meet” somewhere. Does the city water pass through the pump passively, or is there a 3 way connection? My thought is that the blockage could be at that point.
City water feeds into a T downstream of the pump. The pump has an internal valve that “senses” city water pressure and, when operating correctly, will prevent city water from filling the holding tank via the pump’s check valve. Others have reported that check valve sticking. If your tank is being filled this way, it would be robbing you of line pressure at the sinks, etc, but your holding tank would overflow within a few hours!Somebody mentioned the backflow preventer in a different post, could that be it?
A campground’s screw on backflow – absolutely. I find a problem with more than half of them, especially when the campground is full and camp pressures are reduced because of the additional users. But this does not affect pressure from your holding tank via the pump. The backflow / pressure regulator in the 5er (where your hose screws into 5er) won’t affect you pumping from the fresh water holding tank either. Yes, that could be broken/stuck/plugged reducing flow.Of all the home repairs I’ve done, the one I hate is plumbing.
You can “cheat” and test bypass this “hose in” pressure regulator/backflow preventer.
On the right side of the street (not curb) side access to the main storage area is the winterization drain for hot and cold water lines. You can put an adapter into one of the lines (the one with the threaded end). Screw the camp hose into that drain and open the drain valve to pressurize the 5er and test the water pressure.Cliff
Posted: 8:06 PM – Feb 12, 2014CameoDan wrote:Cliff, while this isn’t a fix for you, I got tired of pulling into the campground and attaching the run of the mill water pressure regulator. I read a post from someone who purchased an adjustable regulator with a gauge (mine is oil filled, about $80 on line), and I changed the setting (very easy to do) from 45 to 50 psi. Made all the difference in the world! Our shower works great now. Plus I can visually see what the city or campground water pressure actually is at the head!Dan
x2
Rick
Posted: 8:43 PM – Feb 12, 2014This is what you need
http://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/image … wGauge.jpgAnd this is where to buy it. These guy’s are full-timing too so they know their stuff!
http://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/Press … lators.htmB.W.Gentry
Owner/Admin
2007 Carri-Lite XTRM5
Breckenridge, TX
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